SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

Let me preface this by saying I had 0 issues with cooling in my blue Evo with a slightly inferior AC setup then what I have now.

ZERO ISSUES.

So this is not a question of running a half cut radiator with a forward facing setup and if it works.

It does.

I've done it.

Now that, THAT is out of the way on to my problem.

So my current cooling/AC setup consists of the following: Koyo Radiator, FAL fan, Evo compressor, DrivenFab AC lines and Condensor w/fan.

Originally it seemed like the temps would go high when the AC was on in stop and go traffic. Then it was discovered the temps climbed even on the highway which made no sense.

So we changed the coolant out for Dex and removed the fan for the AC condensor and it seemed to perform a little better. but still the temps would start to climb at about 5 minutes.

Decided to try a lower thermostat and discovered car didn't run one. Installed Thermostat and had a DrivenFab make a shroud for the fan. dropped the temperatures a few degrees but it kept doing the same thing.

Interestingly enough now the temp gauge goes almost all the way to hot and then goes all the way to almost halfway down the half point with NO AC on and when logging coolant temps it doesnt get past 210-215 degrees. So for some reason the temp gauge is fluctuating and not showing the right reading (maybe this whole time).

The Blue car had a CBRD halfcut radiator with no shroud and a civic condensor and custom lines and a EVO compressor with no fan on the condensor and the car ran stupid cool. Almost too cool.

At this point I'm thinking of buying another CBRD radiator in a few weeks and seeing if that alleviates the problem.

Anyone have any other ideas? What controls the temperature gauge? The thermoswitch?

If you have followed my build thread then you know I have had a lot of little issues that have just mounted my frustration up to the point where I'm ready to give up.

Anyone have any educated guesses for anything I haven't tried minus replacing the radiator which will happen early in August.

Thanks or looking in advance.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

Hi hurell,

The dash gauge sender is on the water neck where the thermostat is. Check the wiring going to the sender. Clean it thoroughly. Then test temps.

If still not good replace the sender.

I had this same issue, the hose above the sender leaked a little and the coolant got inside the wiring. This caused the gauge to read high after about 5 minutes. it would go down a bit if I turned the AC on which in turn runs the ac radiator fan. which was because the air from the fan was cooling the water neck. Sounds crazy but it is for real. Fixed it after replacing the wiring, cleaning everything squeaky clean and new sender as well as putting a protective boot on the connector to keep anything else out.

If you have a cable, connect up with the engine warmed up and read the coolant sensor ( it is on the back of the block). should read 184 when warmed up. if this is so and the dash gauge reads high ( more than 1/2 ) you have found the issue.

BTW you MUST run a thermostat on the 4g63. Put a 175 one in there or the Ralliart one ( 160 IIRC ) running without one causes slow warmup and more wear over time on the block and head since they are designed to get warmed up quickly. Absolute must in the winter time other wise the car will never warm up and will always be in open loop, thinking it is cold and dumping fuel in and retarding the timing to try to warm it up.

My best,

Milburn

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

The gauge sensor is extremely 'dumb' and inaccurate, don't really judge anything by it.

What mix are you running in the radiator? You may try ducting in the radiator and A/C condenser.

I do believe core quality does make a difference especially in smaller radiator big power setups but koyo doesn't seem to be bad as far as quality goes.

How about some pictures of your shroud and setup?

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

It was never my intention to run without one. I was uber surprised that there wasnt one in there. I dont want to get into the nuts and bolts of why one wasnt in there. Suffice it to say I would never think of not using one.

I have a Mishimoto 165 in there right now. When the car is warmed up Its in the 180's (or 190's I can't remember, I'll pay attention tomorrow morning). But when the car is running it stays around 200ish and depending on conditions gets to 215 max (except when the AC is on, it will get over 220).

What baffles me is my blue car would struggle just to get over 200. I can't believe that Koyo vs. CBRD would make that big of a difference but at this point I can;t think of anything else. I'm just a little annoyed I have to try swapping radiators. its not like this **** is cheap.

barneyb

I've never had any cooling problems and so no reason to look into this but I have read that the temperature gauge is not linear. In other words, when the engine is running slightly hotter than normal the gauge reads way high. If true, this makes sense because the aluminum head on cast iron block design is a source of trouble on a car with overheating problems. So, make the warning as obvious as possible.

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

Never had these wild temp swings on the other car. I feel like something in the cooling system or the system itself is awry.

WRC-LVR

iTrader: (1)

I would call Chad Block and ask him. But it seems to me that if the CBRD rad worked with that basic setup and the only real diff is the Koyo, then the cooling capacity isnt enough or there is something up with the Koyo . Can you use a full rad or does the FF preclude you from doing that ?

Later Hurell.

Blue91lx

iTrader: (44)

I don't know if this helps or not, but I sit right about 180* all day with a Koyo full sized rad. I was stuck in Philly traffic today forever and still didn't budge. Just though I'd offer that.

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

Yeah Milburn the FF setup precludes that and is further complicated by the dual wastegate setup.

A fullsize radiator SHOULD cool more efficiently then a half cut, BUT, the issues I'm having are abnormal when I compare to my last Evo.

I did reach out to CB at CBRD about this. I will more then likely get another one of his radiators and if it works, great I can hopefully sell the Koyo and recoup a little bit of cash. If it doesn't change the situation then I can always sell the CBRD (their stuff is always quality and I'm sure it will move quickly).

17pstockcar

Could it be something as simple as a pinched line or an air bubble that is causing restricted flow

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

Both coolant and AC system have been bleed repeatedly over the course of dealing with this.

meckert

iTrader: (11)

check your fans to make sure they are pushing/pulling in the rt direction. I had mine wired backwards at one point and it caused erratic temps at weird times. Point being get a piece of paper or something to judge flow direction when they come on-- just a thought. GL

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

Yeah we quadrupple checked the fan direction, its pulling.

The temp gauge doing something else independent of the ACTUAL temps doesn't help.

I can't help but feel its all somehow connected. Not smart enought to figure it atm though

alex_s817

iTrader: (9)

We built a temporary aluminum shroud out of 22 ga while I wait for the thicker stuff to come in.



Dumptube clearance is tight which is why the fan is off to the side slightly

SmurfZilla

iTrader: (33)

To add another wrinkle.

This morning............ROCK SOLID where its supposed to be (a bit below half). Granted its an overcast day and about 70-80ish out but last night was rainy and cooler so I doubt the slight difference in temperature is doing this (Plus its warmer this morning then last night). This is of course without turning the AC on.

I'm thinking theoretically that if Milburn's hypothesis is whats happening then maybe whatever coolant the wiring for the sending unit was exposed to has dried and its acting normal again?

I hate problems that present themselves and then disappear leaving you to think your crazy. Can't troubleshoot if its running fine, right.