Exedy twin rebuild plate positioning?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 336
Likes: 3
From: St. Mary's County, MD
Exedy twin rebuild plate positioning?
So I purchased a rebuild kit for my dying clutch and know each plate goes in one particular order, but I keep hearing about lining up the blue marks on the sides which mine doesn't have. Is there a specific position each layer should be installed? From what I've been reading, the twin disks should not be positioned with the gap lining up, is this correct? Just want to make sure everything is in correct position before doing this and found nothing online.
Already dropped transmission and removed the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.
Already dropped transmission and removed the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.
So I purchased a rebuild kit for my dying clutch and know each plate goes in one particular order, but I keep hearing about lining up the blue marks on the sides which mine doesn't have. Is there a specific position each layer should be installed? From what I've been reading, the twin disks should not be positioned with the gap lining up, is this correct? Just want to make sure everything is in correct position before doing this and found nothing online.
Already dropped transmission and removed the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.
Already dropped transmission and removed the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 336
Likes: 3
From: St. Mary's County, MD
I ended up making sure both clutch disks were offset like instructed and the position could only go a few ways so I slid the plates so they'd actually fit. One HUGE warning because I'm going through this now. Call STM or some other place and order a pivot ring (PR01)-cost me 81.00 shipped. No one had them showing online and had to call. These apparently heat cycle and warp, the rebuild kits do not come with this for some reason. Also, clean, polish the "basket" where the clutch meets the fingers on the trans side.
I didn't do this and now have to start my car already in first and reverse in order for it to go. I put the Monolock on, everything was perfect with the car shut off. I would start it, and couldn't get it into first or reverse to save my life. Ended up back out the clutch engagement rod to where it's almost falling out in order to get it half way in gear. When you're actually moving, upshift and downshift is smooth as can be. They should have included that in the kit, makes no sense.
Also, I checked everywhere and found nothing on how to position the plates minus the offset off clutch plates, sorry.
I didn't do this and now have to start my car already in first and reverse in order for it to go. I put the Monolock on, everything was perfect with the car shut off. I would start it, and couldn't get it into first or reverse to save my life. Ended up back out the clutch engagement rod to where it's almost falling out in order to get it half way in gear. When you're actually moving, upshift and downshift is smooth as can be. They should have included that in the kit, makes no sense.
Also, I checked everywhere and found nothing on how to position the plates minus the offset off clutch plates, sorry.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 336
Likes: 3
From: St. Mary's County, MD
A little update just to confirm for future questions. Received an email from Exedy :
All of the individual replacement components come with a zero balance. The intermediate plate leveler spring must be seated into the machined pocket on the flywheel. The discs do not have to be staggered as the twin plate intermediate plate is vented and there is no interference issue between the 2 discs.
-Evan Cline
All of the individual replacement components come with a zero balance. The intermediate plate leveler spring must be seated into the machined pocket on the flywheel. The discs do not have to be staggered as the twin plate intermediate plate is vented and there is no interference issue between the 2 discs.
-Evan Cline
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