Radiator Life
#16
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Sounds like you're doing the right things to add to the life span. You should also consider if you don't already do it but a good cleaning of the outside of the radiator will add some life to it. I don't believe a system with no pressure would outlast or be better in any way than a pressurized system. A few reasons are a pressurized system keeps air out which is known to cause corrosion as well as cavitation plus the benefit of raising the boiling point significantly. You may be surprised at how many people never consider flushing and replacing with fresh coolant.
#18
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The tap water where I live is good to drink. It is all well water and I live in a town that is surrounded by irrigated farming also well water. But, put our tap water into a copper radiator and it leaks after a couple of years - the tap water here eats solder. I am leery of ever putting tap water into a aluminum radiator because of this past experience. So, were you using tap or distilled?
Last edited by barneyb; Nov 9, 2013 at 09:50 PM.
#19
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No turbo or manifold upgrades. No HG issues. Lived peacfully then died. Leaked at the top near the cap.
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same here, i did a pull yesterday and at the top of the pull some sprayed on my wind shield, hoping it was just my dip stick popping out, i look and a small portion near the cap on the top is split and bubbling where its crimped... time for a new one i guess... im at 95k right now.
i know all the common names that everyone goes with, like koyo, mishimoto, and cbrd, but anyone have any input on the ones they sell on ebay? ive heard some good reviews about them, im just kind of skeptical of getting one because well...... ebay lol. but i just dont have the cash flow for a top end one at the moment
i know all the common names that everyone goes with, like koyo, mishimoto, and cbrd, but anyone have any input on the ones they sell on ebay? ive heard some good reviews about them, im just kind of skeptical of getting one because well...... ebay lol. but i just dont have the cash flow for a top end one at the moment
#22
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I don't remember the exact mileage my stoker let go but it was Jan 2011 when I replaced it. So doing the math...it was about 50/60K miles ago, +/- 10K....meaning it was probably around 110K, +/- 10K, miles it lasted.
It let go rather gracefully....nothing dramatic. Top seal failed where plastic meets with aluminum.
I probably replaced the coolant (no flushing) about 4 or so times during its' life. The inside always looked shiny and clean. Even when it failed, I took it apart for ****s and giggles, top and bottom...and the inside was pretty much spotless.
It let go rather gracefully....nothing dramatic. Top seal failed where plastic meets with aluminum.
I probably replaced the coolant (no flushing) about 4 or so times during its' life. The inside always looked shiny and clean. Even when it failed, I took it apart for ****s and giggles, top and bottom...and the inside was pretty much spotless.
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Ebay
EBAY SON! I would replace it as others have said. I hit 380/360 and it blew all over the car literally in the parking lot of my tuners.
If your driving long distance I wouldnt keep the stock one. Its just a matter of time. I got one on ebay after it blew for like 120-140 shipped. And direct replacement and currently supporting 550/530
If your driving long distance I wouldnt keep the stock one. Its just a matter of time. I got one on ebay after it blew for like 120-140 shipped. And direct replacement and currently supporting 550/530
#25
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EBAY SON! I would replace it as others have said. I hit 380/360 and it blew all over the car literally in the parking lot of my tuners.
If your driving long distance I wouldnt keep the stock one. Its just a matter of time. I got one on ebay after it blew for like 120-140 shipped. And direct replacement and currently supporting 550/530
If your driving long distance I wouldnt keep the stock one. Its just a matter of time. I got one on ebay after it blew for like 120-140 shipped. And direct replacement and currently supporting 550/530
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