Clutch or something else?
Hi I own a 03 evo 8, since about 2 weeks ago my clutch releases if I push on the gas too hard. say for instance I'm driving at 2k and push on the pedal half way or more it comes off like its in neutral. I don't know if its the clutch or something else because I don't get gear lockouts and it shifts fine under about 2.5k-3k. just feels like the clutch doesn't have any pressure on it. Need help and recommendations!
When you say it 'releases' do you mean the gear shifter pops out of gear and back to neutral or do you mean the engine rpms rise without any increase in speed (but the gear shifter is still in gear)?
If it is the latter, then your clutch is slipping....and you should try adjusting the engagement point via your clutch pedal or you might just need to bite the bullet and have the clutch replaced.
I would guess you need a new clutch. Sorry...
If it is the latter, then your clutch is slipping....and you should try adjusting the engagement point via your clutch pedal or you might just need to bite the bullet and have the clutch replaced.
I would guess you need a new clutch. Sorry...
Well, I drive a mildly upgraded evo 8 and I have the ACT HDSS clutch and it is great for my DD duties. I have over 70K miles on it and it is still holding strong.
I don't know if your evo is your DD or if you only weekend it or what so you may be able to go a little more agressive in case you up the power more than simple bolt ons...otherwise I'm happy with my Act. You will read others complaining about 'lockout' issues at high rpm shifts but I've never experienced that and have shifted at high rpms many times....I believe it is more about the quality of the install and clutch adjustment then a poorly designed product.
I cannot comment on the other clutches as this is my only experience with aftermarket clutches, ACT HDSS. I would suggest using the OEM throwout bearing if you go with an ACT clutch (at least for the HDSS).
Search and feel free to contact a couple of vendors on here. They are more than willing to offer up their advise and suggestions.
I would suggest STM, English Racing, MAP, ETS...they all have great reputations on here and really help out the Evo community.
They can point you in the right direction.
GL!!
I don't know if your evo is your DD or if you only weekend it or what so you may be able to go a little more agressive in case you up the power more than simple bolt ons...otherwise I'm happy with my Act. You will read others complaining about 'lockout' issues at high rpm shifts but I've never experienced that and have shifted at high rpms many times....I believe it is more about the quality of the install and clutch adjustment then a poorly designed product.
I cannot comment on the other clutches as this is my only experience with aftermarket clutches, ACT HDSS. I would suggest using the OEM throwout bearing if you go with an ACT clutch (at least for the HDSS).
Search and feel free to contact a couple of vendors on here. They are more than willing to offer up their advise and suggestions.
I would suggest STM, English Racing, MAP, ETS...they all have great reputations on here and really help out the Evo community.
They can point you in the right direction.
GL!!
Last edited by SilverShadow03; Oct 24, 2013 at 02:44 PM.
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One problem with the stock clutch is that the pressure plate has stops built in that bottom out once the disc wears to a certain point. This causes the pressure plate to loose it's clamp on the disc very rapidly. The clutch may go from "starting to slip" all the way to "good luck if the car moves" in a matter of a week!
One problem with the stock clutch is that the pressure plate has stops built in that bottom out once the disc wears to a certain point. This causes the pressure plate to loose it's clamp on the disc very rapidly. The clutch may go from "starting to slip" all the way to "good luck if the car moves" in a matter of a week!
That was probably the intent, but it is doubtful that you can get away with doing a clutch job without at least resurfacing the flywheel regardless. I would consider the extra 10-30k miles you could get without the stops as a better feature. You are also given a lot more notice that you will are due for a clutch job from when you first experience clutch slip. If the driver is especially abusive, warping the surfaces of the clutch/flywheel, the rivets bottom out far sooner than the disc wearing down to the rivets since both the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces become so concave.
You are the clutch man so if you say their are stops, I believe you. However, my clutch slipped on a road trip on or about July 1, we continued on for at least another 1000 miles till home, just stayed out of WOT 5th. Then I drove through the months of July, August and most of September before the car went up on jack stands for replacement of the stock clutch. This to avoid working in the heat.
In my case, the clutch started barely slipping when hitting peak torque (it was slipping so little I thought it was a missfire at first). I dropped the boost and continued driving for 2 weeks, including going to a track day without any more slippage.
I kmow full bolt on won't get me too high but once I have all them and see where I'm at, id get something else to help me to get where I want to which is above 400. Probably a new turbo if I'm not satisfyed with the numbers. Btw I went with the Exedy stage 2 cerametalic!


