CEL with new turbo
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CEL with new turbo
I am getting two check engine lights after my new turbo with external wastegate is installed with using s-afc and base dynoflash (to remove the fuel cut and rev limiter)
I won't be upgrading to AEM for another couple weeks...
The checkengine light codes are
P0243
P0102
Any help will be appreciated
I won't be upgrading to AEM for another couple weeks...
The checkengine light codes are
P0243
P0102
Any help will be appreciated
According to my Datalogger the codes you mention are as follows:
P0243 = Turbo/Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid "A"
P0102 = Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
As far as the Second code i had the same problem when i hooked up my Apexi SAFC. Make sure that you have it set to Karmen. Once it is set to Karmen then you need to Clear the codes and that should fix the problem. But if you dont clear the code after you set it to Karmen it will not clear itself. Hope this help!
Chris
P0243 = Turbo/Supercharger Wastegate Solenoid "A"
P0102 = Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
As far as the Second code i had the same problem when i hooked up my Apexi SAFC. Make sure that you have it set to Karmen. Once it is set to Karmen then you need to Clear the codes and that should fix the problem. But if you dont clear the code after you set it to Karmen it will not clear itself. Hope this help!
Chris
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Chris, Thanks man.. that really helps.. now i don't have to worry about the second one that much
I reset the ecu after Nick from performanceworks tuned the s-afc.
But check engine light came on again i think, i am hoping, it came only because of the first one P0243... I will see tonight If I can meet up my friend to get the codes out
I reset the ecu after Nick from performanceworks tuned the s-afc.
But check engine light came on again i think, i am hoping, it came only because of the first one P0243... I will see tonight If I can meet up my friend to get the codes out
P0243... You must have unplugged or removed the OEM wastegate solenoid. I did the same thing after installing my MBC. Once I plugged it back in the light cleared itself. The alternative is to "plug in" a 30 ohm (if I recall correctly) resistor in place of the solenoid.
Heh, sorry... an Ohm is a measurement of resistance within an electrical circuit. When the ECU boots up it checks out all of the various solenoids and sensors to make sure they're still there. The boost solenoid is a pretty simple device so the ECU checks to make sure it's still plugged in. If you decide to pull the boost solenoid you'll have to "fake out" the ECU into thinking there is something still plugged in. If you used a paperclip you'd probably fry the ECU by short circuiting it. To prevent damage to the ECU you can use a resistor that provides the same resistance as the coil on the solenoid.
Really, the simplest thing to do is to plug the solenoid back in until you switch over to the AEM EMS. I doubt the EMS cares if the solenoid is plugged in.
Really, the simplest thing to do is to plug the solenoid back in until you switch over to the AEM EMS. I doubt the EMS cares if the solenoid is plugged in.
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thanks... so I can just put the old selonoid back (just the resistor part i guess or however people call it) without the wires since wires don't connect anywhere on my setup... right?
that doesn't do any short circuiting hopefuly...
thanks for your help
that doesn't do any short circuiting hopefuly...
thanks for your help
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No what he is saying is that you can either plug in your stock solenoid or you can go to radio shack and get a resistor and plug one end of the resistor in each side of the wiring harness to trick the computer into thinking that the stock solenoid is hooked up.
Chris
Chris
I'm not sure what voltage the ECU sends to trigger the solenoid. I'm going to guess since it does some work and it's similar to a relay that it's 12V. In that case I'd try a 10W. Radio Shack sells them, two for $1.69. They are 50 ohm resistors but I doubt that would be a problem.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=271-133
Really, leaving the coil under the hood isn't a big deal. Personally I just left the solenoid hanging out behind the driver's headlight. If having that piece there is a big deal, you can always plug the resistor in at the ECU so you don't have excess crap under your hood. It looks like pins 11 & 13 will do.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...-ecuwiring.htm
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=271-133
Really, leaving the coil under the hood isn't a big deal. Personally I just left the solenoid hanging out behind the driver's headlight. If having that piece there is a big deal, you can always plug the resistor in at the ECU so you don't have excess crap under your hood. It looks like pins 11 & 13 will do.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...-ecuwiring.htm
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Where should connect the two hoses from my selenoid if i put it back?
Since I upgraded my turbo and intercooler piping.. I have no idea where to connect them...
I might just put the selenoid back...
thanks for all your help again
Memo
Since I upgraded my turbo and intercooler piping.. I have no idea where to connect them...
I might just put the selenoid back...
thanks for all your help again

Memo
Last edited by memo3; Mar 1, 2004 at 08:31 AM.
See the diagram below. The hoses to and from the solenoid valve can be removed and plugged. In my case the pressure tap coming off of the turbo compressor is plugged and instead my MBC is fed from the manifold tap leading to the bypass valve. My wastegate actuator is fed by the MBC.
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Originally posted by stevEVO8
Just leave them hanging or remove the hoses. All you need is to have the unit plugged in to the factory harness.
Just leave them hanging or remove the hoses. All you need is to have the unit plugged in to the factory harness.


