CEL with new turbo
Mar 1, 2004, 10:46 PM
#16
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Originally posted by propellerhead
See the diagram below. The hoses to and from the solenoid valve can be removed and plugged. In my case the pressure tap coming off of the turbo compressor is plugged and instead my MBC is fed from the manifold tap leading to the bypass valve. My wastegate actuator is fed by the MBC.
See the diagram below. The hoses to and from the solenoid valve can be removed and plugged. In my case the pressure tap coming off of the turbo compressor is plugged and instead my MBC is fed from the manifold tap leading to the bypass valve. My wastegate actuator is fed by the MBC.
Mar 2, 2004, 08:54 AM
#17
No all that needs to be done is leave the sylenoid plugged in. I did this on my Eclipse and never got the CEL.
This is the way its been done on mitsus for a long time. Just leave them hanging, plug them, remove them, Just leave the sylenoid plugged in.
This is the way its been done on mitsus for a long time. Just leave them hanging, plug them, remove them, Just leave the sylenoid plugged in.
Mar 2, 2004, 10:18 AM
#19
How hot are we talking about? is it from engine heat?
I never checked whether mine did or not. I jsut unplugged the hoses and let them hang and never thought about it again.
I never checked whether mine did or not. I jsut unplugged the hoses and let them hang and never thought about it again.
Mar 2, 2004, 09:40 PM
#20
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For how long have u been using like that?
This is how hot it was,
The engine cooled down for about couple hours and then put the selenoid back.. and in about 5 min (no driving) it got pretty hot when i touched it... it was nearly touchable
I am not sure how hot it gets with the hoses working... that might be normal but just wanted to make sure everything is right..
This is how hot it was,
The engine cooled down for about couple hours and then put the selenoid back.. and in about 5 min (no driving) it got pretty hot when i touched it... it was nearly touchable
I am not sure how hot it gets with the hoses working... that might be normal but just wanted to make sure everything is right..
Mar 3, 2004, 08:45 AM
#21
I did that for about 2 years on my DSM.
I have never heard of that happening. You may want to try unplugging it and doing the resistor trick the others were talking about.
I have never heard of that happening. You may want to try unplugging it and doing the resistor trick the others were talking about.
Mar 3, 2004, 09:10 AM
#22
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I'm pretty sure the boost solenoid is "normally open" when no power is applied. This would prevent an overboost situation if the solenoid failed. Remember, the boost solenoid vents boost pressure being fed to the wastegate actuator. I'm thinking that if the boost is at or below normal levels the coil will be energized and would get hot over the course of normal operation. Then again, I could be completely wrong...
Regardless, a coil (or resistor) with 30 ohms of resistance will draw .39 amps of juice at 13 volts. This translates to 5 watts of heat energy that is put out. The coil will get hot if it is continuously energized.
Regardless, a coil (or resistor) with 30 ohms of resistance will draw .39 amps of juice at 13 volts. This translates to 5 watts of heat energy that is put out. The coil will get hot if it is continuously energized.
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