Soooo... This Just Happened!!! :-(
Mine was rebuilt with an eagle 100mm crank, JE pistons, MAP Ultimate Duty rods and has 12,000 problem free miles and picked up 10mph in the 1320 in the process. The build is what you make of it...half *** it and it will half *** you lol....good luck. If you can afford to hang on to it, stay patient and keep it! I'm glad I did! I went from 11.37@122 with stoc k bottom end and an FP Green (original) to 10.8@132 with the addition of the stroker set up and standard journal bearing FP Red. Have a BB FP Black on the way along with a host of other parts looking for 140mph traps.
Last edited by tony gibson; Nov 9, 2013 at 08:46 AM.
Yea I knew I was pushing it hard but I think what finally did it was I made some changes to my BOV and was overboosting to 30+ psi. I was actually in the middle of tuning to lower the boost when it let go. I should have been more careful and corrected the overboost issue sooner. One thing I'm glad about is at least I pretty much know why it happened and I know it wasn't anyone else's fault but my own. I'd be a lot more upset if this happened on someone else's tune or because of someone else's poor work.
Honestly I'd rebuild the engine. That way, in your for sale ad and while attempting to sell, you can really hound on the point that the 'new' engine is effectively starting from <1000 miles.
I've sold and bought many a car, and when looking for a new one, I'm always very attracted to car a with high chassis mileage but low engine mileage. As long as theres no rust on the car or underlying damage, then 'chassis' mileage can seen as a little more arbitrary.
I've sold and bought many a car, and when looking for a new one, I'm always very attracted to car a with high chassis mileage but low engine mileage. As long as theres no rust on the car or underlying damage, then 'chassis' mileage can seen as a little more arbitrary.
Honestly I'd rebuild the engine. That way, in your for sale ad and while attempting to sell, you can really hound on the point that the 'new' engine is effectively starting from <1000 miles.
I've sold and bought many a car, and when looking for a new one, I'm always very attracted to car a with high chassis mileage but low engine mileage. As long as theres no rust on the car or underlying damage, then 'chassis' mileage can seen as a little more arbitrary.
I've sold and bought many a car, and when looking for a new one, I'm always very attracted to car a with high chassis mileage but low engine mileage. As long as theres no rust on the car or underlying damage, then 'chassis' mileage can seen as a little more arbitrary.
Dude
Wow first let me say sorry to see what happened.
That said as it sits your looking at 6k to 8k tops. I could see high had you not punched a hole in the block. The only person who would honestly buy this car as it sits is someone with 6-12k to dump right into the car maybe a shop but a shop wont pay more then 6k.
I personally would take out money to get a used motor and pay someone a grand to install it. Then sell for 14-15k thats a basically double what the build costs back just for getting it running.
That said as it sits your looking at 6k to 8k tops. I could see high had you not punched a hole in the block. The only person who would honestly buy this car as it sits is someone with 6-12k to dump right into the car maybe a shop but a shop wont pay more then 6k.
I personally would take out money to get a used motor and pay someone a grand to install it. Then sell for 14-15k thats a basically double what the build costs back just for getting it running.


