Need some input on if I should replace my clutch and pressure plate flywheel setup, get the plate and flywheel resurfaced, or just leave it alone.

I am still battling drive line issues. Mostly just lots of shudder, that becomes unbearable for daily driving in parking lots, but recently my 4th gear started rattling loudly. Fearing that something could come apart I decided to send the trans back to John, ShepTrans.

Since I was doing that, I also sent my rear diff to be 'checked' and my TC. Its all basically out when you pull the trans, so I just strapped everything to a pallet. (Can't box the 6sp, its just slightly too heavy). That's a whole different post for later.

I have the ACR HDSS, and it has never given me a problem. I suspect its way overkill for my power level or 330 WHP, but at the time I got it I had bigger turbo plans. For my use, mostly track use and some daily, grip is my issue, not power. So the entire drivetrain is pretty madly overbuilt. I was also going for reliability. Ironic, but I guess I am not there yet.

I have adjusted it very well, and it doesn't drag, and the system shifts like butter. I don't launch either, so there hasn't been that much a test of the clutch in my opinion. Now that I have it all apart would be the logical time to replace the clutch setup, but I just don't know if I need to.

Lots of people hate that clutch, but finding a consistent and agreed upon 'best' clutch for this use is essentially impossible. Zillions of threads with just as many opinions. So I wouldn't know what to get if I did replace it.

Here are pics to help draw out some opinions and comments. I don't plan on much more power, maybe E85 if it ever gets near my house, but that's it. So maybe 380WHP at some point max.

The discoloration looks very even to me, and minor compared to how the stock one looked when I took it out.










Here you can see the thickness of the disk, and the surface looks like it did when it came out of the box, but maybe I am just forgetting it was twice as thick. I need to figure out what the diameter should measure to I guess.






Now that you have seen the pics to get your first impression. It has about 50k miles on it, with about 40 track days roughly. Again, I don't launch, and am very gentle on track with the drive train.

 

did you mean ACT not ACR?

when i did my clutch last summer i did hours and hours of research as i was very concerned about driveability and over clutching the car/too light a flywheel. i have personally seen enough odd failures to not run an ACT clutch again on my personal car.

imho that clutch doesn't look like it needs to be replaced BUT if you rule out everything else in the driveline it would make sense to swap the clutch.

i do 8-10 trackdays a year, and wound up going with the com stage 2 based on the giant thread english racing has about it as well as an exedy flywheel which was recommended by some other road racing evo guys (i think its maybe 2 pounds lighter than stock, but they leave some weight in places that really help driveability.

 

If you do get a new clutch go with the Comp clutch stage 2, it's simply awesome. Your current clutch looks like it's in good shape. Up to you really, the stage 2 has practically no chatter.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Yes that was supposed to be ACT. Didn't do a good job of proofing that posting. Always happens when I try and manage a bunch of pics in the post.

I don't have any chatter in the clutch now, so sometimes I worry that I will change it and actually create a problem. Doing the clutch is a pretty significant task on jack stands, so I want to try and do the best thing now so I don't need to do this again for a few years.

Would you guys say that the comp stage 2 is heavy or the same as stock?

I have been recommended to get the exedy twin. Costly, so I wanted to see what kind of feedback I get on that type of clutch. Twin disks versus a big single.

 

Twin is overkill and not at all close to stock IMO. I opted for the exedy stage 1 HD and have been very satisfied with how close to the stock clutch it feels.

 

Eh the stage 2 is a little heavier than stock I would imagine, but honestly I barely noticed a difference. I wish you were local, I would be more than willing to help you. I've dropped the trans a few times on jack stands and am pretty quick at it.

If you don't drop the subframe to do it, do yourself a favor and do it. Takes about 30-45 minutes to do, but once it's out you can get the tcase and trans out in like an hour tops hahaha. Plus it makes getting the trans back in a breeze and avoids it from being hung up in weird positions.

 

Thanks! Yup I did a couple of times with the subframe in and then when I had to remove the subframe for something else I realized how easy that was. Now I drop the subframe. Its out now, or everything is out, because I sent everything to Sheps. I agree, the subframe takes a few extra steps but make it a breeze, even for the 6sp. Maybe the 5sp is easier/smaller.

Would you guys replace that clutch based on what you see? Would you replace it just because everything is out now and you don't like the HDSS? Would you just put it back in until a clear clutch issue arrises, then do the work again?

 

The 5 speed is the same size, the 6 speed is just a 5 speed with an extra gear inside that's why they have issues I guess because there is less oil inside die to less area from 6th gear.

 

You are going to be getting a transmission and transfer case back in what should be perfect shape. Installed with a good clutch nothing should need touching for a very long time. So, how do feel about going back in for a clutch job? There's your answer.

 

OK, so the 6sp is just heavier, but not dimensionally bigger. Wasn't sure.

So I am assuming here you mean to say that the ACT isn't a good clutch. Do you also recommend the comp stage 2?

 

i think what he is saying is that it sort of makes sense to just make everything brand new. based on the pic but without knowing how much disc is work, i don't think you NEED to replace the clutch...but

the comp stage 2 is only slightly heavier than stock, but the driveability is great. first 500 miles required a little extra slipping but after break in it is very smooth, easy to drive and not harsh at all.

 

got it. I must be having a brain fart moment. Do you have the link for the english racing comp stage 2 thread handy so I can refresh my memory on that. My searching is pulling up a zillion clutch threads, but I seem to be missing it. Thanks!

 

Are you sure the pressure plate is a HD (MB017) and not the XT (MB017X). I can't tell for sure by the photos, but it looks like the MB017X diaphragm. The pressure plate and flywheel look in pretty good shape, especially for that much mileage but the disc looks damaged in the one photo.

 

i thought it looked damaged in the side-on view but was wondering whether it was a optical illusion.

 

go with the exedy single disc HD... i think the model is 05804HD.... its the clutch that shep reccomended to me to hold like 472wtq... that would be reliable, and its an awesome clutch. It's about $500, but you know how much of a pain in the *** it is to do the clutch, id say replace it while its all apart.