My engine keeps doing this to spark plugs....
Because if that plug decides to break off, which it very well could, it will destroy his engine costing him a lot more $ then an injector.
Just remove the injector and have it flow tested. that's the easiest solution, instead of playing Russian roulette with your engine.
Just remove the injector and have it flow tested. that's the easiest solution, instead of playing Russian roulette with your engine.
Well what Im saying is to move the injector to another cylinder, test with 4 good plugs in the car and see if the problem moves to that cylinder. I do agree though that if he can, it is much better to have it flow tested.
You can get unlucky one of those times though and instead of closing the new plug gap, It could break a piece off into the cylinder and cause engine damage.
I would think a peice of do gland broke off causin the gapped plug we had that problem all the time on boosted specv because detonation and weak ring lands just a thought same thing happened to me it would tap spark plugs just driving out of boost
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Well there will be no swapping of injectors or plugs, only replacing. I don't troubleshoot that way. I don't want to run the risk of any suspect parts doing damage anywhere else on the motor.
I'm going a different route anyway. I don't want to keep troubleshooting at home and run the risk of the car completely having it go with no local mechanic, I'm just going to put all of this on hold and ship it out to Kevin in Dallas. I found a couple other non related issues that need to be addressed anyway, so the best thing to do is to just get it out there while it can still move under its own power, and let him do what needs to be done.
If anyone has any suggestions on good shipping companies, let me know. It will be going from Baton Rouge, LA to his shop in Lewisville, TX. Thanks for all the help guys, but I don't have the time, the tools, or the knowledge, or the desire to fix this myself.
I'm going a different route anyway. I don't want to keep troubleshooting at home and run the risk of the car completely having it go with no local mechanic, I'm just going to put all of this on hold and ship it out to Kevin in Dallas. I found a couple other non related issues that need to be addressed anyway, so the best thing to do is to just get it out there while it can still move under its own power, and let him do what needs to be done.
If anyone has any suggestions on good shipping companies, let me know. It will be going from Baton Rouge, LA to his shop in Lewisville, TX. Thanks for all the help guys, but I don't have the time, the tools, or the knowledge, or the desire to fix this myself.
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Found out what happened. Broken ring land on cylinder 1. I opted for the Evolution Dynamics Stage 1 motor build. Good for up to 600hp, but seeing as how my TRE 6 speed can't even handle that much power, it's still overkill for what I need lol I just want to tune it more aggressively this time and make whatever power it makes with the current mods.
Now the question is why the ring land broke.
Most common reason is the ring gap closed due to a lean condition and let the ring ends butt then flex breaking the ring land.
You will still want to check out that fuel injector if you plan on running it again.
Most common reason is the ring gap closed due to a lean condition and let the ring ends butt then flex breaking the ring land.
You will still want to check out that fuel injector if you plan on running it again.
There's no reason to begin randomly replacing parts. If the engine is down it makes perfect sense to contact Jens at Fuel Injector Clinic and send in your injectors for a cleaning and flow testing. It's both cheaper and better to get definitive confirmation for all of your injectors than to throw darts in the dark.
Just my $0.02.
Just my $0.02.
It doesnt look like it broke because it was lean...plug doesnt look clean nor white. I would think too much timing for the octane and/or boost.
Definitely send the injectors out to have them checked. I blew two head gaskets on my last car on E85 due to an injector that flowed 10% less. I got stupid lucky, but by my napkin math that cylinder was running at about 14:1 at WOT over two motors, when the second one came apart the head itself had cracked between all 4 seats and the spark plug threads on that cylinder. It's not worth the risk, send them off for cleaning and testing, worst case they're fine and you just had a beneficial service done anyway.
I'd honestly like to see the remaining 3 spark plugs, just to see what they look like. That should tell us for sure, but I agree with John, while the pictures are pretty garbage it doesn't look like lean det.
I'd honestly like to see the remaining 3 spark plugs, just to see what they look like. That should tell us for sure, but I agree with John, while the pictures are pretty garbage it doesn't look like lean det.
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Well the car is at Kevin's shop now, so I can't answer any more questions about what the motor looks like. The other 3 plugs were all fine though. They all looked normal. No signs of any abnormal activity.
Now, about a week or two before all this happened, I did accidentally over rev the motor...by a LOT. I was changing lanes, and went to shift and hit a dirt mound left by a dump truck, and my hand slipped and sent the car into 3rd gear instead of 5th. It pegged out the tach, but I pushed the clutch in immediately, coasted a bit then put it in the right gear. Could that have had something to do with this?
Another note, I ran logs on EVOscan while all this was happening, and after the over rev, and never got more than 1 or 2 counts of knock. No more than under normal running conditions. I usually wouldn't get any knock at all, but every so often when the motor first goes under load, I would get 1-3 counts at around 4500rpm, then it would go away.
Now, a few weeks before this happened, and even before the over rev I noticed the car was cutting out a little at high rpm's in 5th and 6th but it was rare. Like maybe once a week if I went WOT. Anything up to like 90% throttle I was fine. Only at WOT would I have an issue, so I was planning on replacing the plugs, I figured they might be going out. If any of that helps.
Now, about a week or two before all this happened, I did accidentally over rev the motor...by a LOT. I was changing lanes, and went to shift and hit a dirt mound left by a dump truck, and my hand slipped and sent the car into 3rd gear instead of 5th. It pegged out the tach, but I pushed the clutch in immediately, coasted a bit then put it in the right gear. Could that have had something to do with this?
Another note, I ran logs on EVOscan while all this was happening, and after the over rev, and never got more than 1 or 2 counts of knock. No more than under normal running conditions. I usually wouldn't get any knock at all, but every so often when the motor first goes under load, I would get 1-3 counts at around 4500rpm, then it would go away.
Now, a few weeks before this happened, and even before the over rev I noticed the car was cutting out a little at high rpm's in 5th and 6th but it was rare. Like maybe once a week if I went WOT. Anything up to like 90% throttle I was fine. Only at WOT would I have an issue, so I was planning on replacing the plugs, I figured they might be going out. If any of that helps.
i have that problem! had CEL flashed and then it loss power and sounded like a subby, and when i pulled plug 4 (far right on drivers side) the top part broke off and now i'm having problems with my car :'(
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Yeah I'd say STOP driving the car as that broken part of the plug is probably doing some real damage.
yea well when it happened that's when i noticed it sounded like a subby and was reacting weird, and luckily i was almost home. I pulled plug and replaced it with a stock one and turned it on real quick and problem went away. i took a boroscope and tried to check the chamber but nothing was in there... but another problem came up when the collar that goes around the mirror attachment to check the walls fell off into the chamber... that took me a long time to fish out...
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