hi
i bought i have ARP-L19 head stud kit for my evo 8..they didnt come with torque spec sheet...please can someone help and let me know torque spec and sequence on these L-19
thanks

 

Torque all of them at 40 60 then 95 last (With moly lube). Do you have the Moly lube they supply? Using that changes the torque required.


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...esequence.jpg/

Torque sequence^

 

I torqued mine to 105 ft/lbs.

 

mine are 110

 

Here are your APR instructions, which includes proper torque sequence:

ARP Custom Age Instructions

- Be sure to follow the instructions to the letter, including chasing the existing block threads with a tap to remove any binding debris. Do not be tempted to tighten the studs within the block - hand tight only.

- You must use the ARP Ultra-Torque Lube to minimize false torque readings due to friction. Get some if you do not have it.

- A bar-style torque wrench is more accurate. 95-100 ft/lbs is correct for the L19s, and represents 75% of the torque required to bring the stud to failure.

FYI

 

I torque my custom age 625's down to 105 ft lbs for the last torque spec, had the head off numerous times and and havent popped a gasket yet. What Ted states is good info though always be sure clean the threads in the block out so they thread in nice and free and also make sure u use some arp torque lube on the stud threads because it will affect the torque reading.

 

I did mine to 105 and blew the head gasket so I'd say 115.

 

Careful, that's faulty logic. The gasket didn't rupture because of insufficient torque on the studs, unless they were incorrectly prepped or installed. Overtorquing them further won't remedy the real cause.

What needs to be understood is overtorquing the studs makes them less able to withstand the pressures of combustion before they yield, not the other way around.

 

I am at 95ft-lbs and have had zero issue thus far. 35psi and not a hiccup.

 

Just get the biggest ratchet u have with a cheater bar and torque them till u can't turn them anymore that should yield the best results....

OP, In all seriousness the 625's are meant to be torqued to 100 per instructions and the L-19's are meant to be torqued to 95. Just follow the instructions and prep/inspect/clean your mating surfaces and you will be golden. The 625's are nicer studs though if you want a little extra insurance for higher power and high combustion pressure applications, but many use the L-19's without issues.

 

Do you slacken them up between the 40-60-95? Or just torque to 40, then to 60 and then again to 95?

 

just follow the torque sequence. Do all of them to 40 then all to 60 and then all to 95.

 

You should break them in first, torque them to like 45-50 ft lbs loosen and repeat, 3 times. Then torque them down in the sequence.

 

There is really no reason to do that. If everything is absolutely clean (very important) and ARP's Ultra-Torque lube liberally applied, everything is good to go. Torquing in steps is done to ensure even torque being applied across the mating surface without creating pinch spots. There is no other hidden magic. Just follow the instructions to the letter, and it's finished.

 

For those persons using 105 and 115 , do you torque each to that on one go?