Before u install the new studs u should at least clean it by tapping the thread and suck debris out with vacuum.

 

Not what I was taught in for Engine Building in school. To each their own though.

 

I understand, but if this were necessary with the current metallurgy and lubricating agent, ARP would specify it in their instructions. The ARP tech department is very well versed in the metallurgy and loading behavior of their fasteners. If one has questions, they're just a phone call away.

One important piece of information they will explain in detail is how the printed torque figure is determined, and why it should not be exceeded.

 

This. ARP Engineers know more about their fasteners than any engine builder or school instructor could ever hope to...

 

It's not so much metallurgy. As breaking in the threads from the sharp edges that may be there from the tooling process. H11 head studs I've bought have that break in torque sequence in the instructions. I know it's not the l19's but yeah. It doesn't hurt to do

 

H11's aren't ARP's....

 

Which is why I said that..... the top threads are the same.... anyways I don't care. Just sharing what I do, and what I think is right. You can do it however you please.

 

Are they the same? Are you sure ARP doesn't debur their studs before shipping them? I've installed a lot of ARP hardware, and unless it was shipping damage (which I then didn't use it), I have never had one thread in any less than perfectly smooth. I don't get why you wouldn't follow the manufacturers instructions. I mean, you'll follow them for the H11's, but you won't for the ARP's. Seems weird...

 

It doesn't hurt to do it. I do it because it's how I've built engines since 2008. It works for me. So I'll keep doing it.