rod bearings 900whp evo
from what I have seen there are changing rod bearings and oil pumps after five hard pulls, if not the whole engine. if someone says 900hp four cylinder is reliable they have been lied too. 900hp is 3.4 times the intended hp of the block. how reliable do you think it should be??
No, no you dont. A 900whp engine lasts far longer than 5-10 pulls. If it doesnt the tuner and builder both need fired. I could tell you how long a 1000whp 2.0L has lasted around here but I doubt anyone would believe me. The cause of death wasnt the power level either.
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i havent changed my rod bearings or any internal part in 4 years. except a cam swap. when i pulled my engine apart i was actually surprised how well my engine looked. i probably could have gone another 2 years with out touching it. i do not make 900hp. but well into the 800s is good enough
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No, no you dont. A 900whp engine lasts far longer than 5-10 pulls. If it doesnt the tuner and builder both need fired. I could tell you how long a 1000whp 2.0L has lasted around here but I doubt anyone would believe me. The cause of death wasnt the power level either.
It was at 403 passes when it died and it was the fuel solenoid on the nitrous system that died/stuck can burnt the motor down.
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so
Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.
Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so
Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
Last edited by JohnBradley; Feb 27, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 851
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From: US
It was at 403 passes when it died and it was the fuel solenoid on the nitrous system that died/stuck can burnt the motor down.
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.
Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so
Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
It was at 403 passes when it died and it was the fuel solenoid on the nitrous system that died/stuck can burnt the motor down.
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.
Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
We do 1050whp at 40psi though so it wasnt getting pushed like it does today (55+). Dry sump and Methanol have pretty much eliminated the engine failure issues though, as far as that goes nitrous is still an occasional problem. My personal Evo had 15k on it when the timing belt snapped and the bearings were all fine. That made 830/630 and while I didnt run it at 40psi all the time I did it run mid 30s and made a rip a day for those 15,000.
Rod bearings are all about oil starvation. If it starves you are done. If you have a knocky tune it will start to cause issues over time and then cause failure. Aluminum rods help reduce harmonics that would normally be there as well which at the 900 and above level is a good idea. We have a few 900 steel rod motors still going even so
Again starvation (even if not full) is a son of a ***** on rod bearings.Back in the day we logged 100psi on the launch in the white Evo, it would drop to 30psi through 1st and 2nd and wouldnt be back up to 100psi until early in 3rd. You can guess what rod bearings look like at 1100whp when thats going on. The first fix was a bigger sump off the back of the stock pan and an extended pick up tube. This and more oil helped of course. Over the years we have added things like the AMS baffled pan which we also run a 1/2 quart high, the Kiggly HLA to keep the oil from pumping out of the pan, Aluminum rods, and now finally the Magnus Dry Sump Kit to make sure the issues stay gone. I know some will think dry sump, thats not streetable nor cheap. But is a 5,000 dry sump kit with 12qts of oil cheaper than a built motor every season? It is also perfectly streetable...otherwise LS7s and 911s wouldnt come so equipped from the factory.
Aaron
mmm I still like my answer better. every shop in existence will say they can do it. but its not common knowledge how to keep a 900hp engine together. out of 100 who try 95 do fail miserably. heck the fail rate for 600hp cars isnt a whole lot better. tampa is a pretty big city. 2nd in the nation for street racing. in this area I have not seen ANY shops produce a car over 600hp that stayed together for any good length of time. its sad but very, very true.
mmm I still like my answer better. every shop in existence will say they can do it. but its not common knowledge how to keep a 900hp engine together. out of 100 who try 95 do fail miserably. heck the fail rate for 600hp cars isnt a whole lot better. tampa is a pretty big city. 2nd in the nation for street racing. in this area I have not seen ANY shops produce a car over 600hp that stayed together for any good length of time. its sad but very, very true.
There are lots of high hp evos where i live. I'll just bring up 2 that are 500whp on stock block tuned by Stm going on 3years now no engine problems. I think its all in the tune.