problem is 95% of failures are not reported on the forums. so for every 5 you hear about, there are 95 you didnt hear about.

 

This is very true. However I don't think the failure rate should be bad at the 600whp level. The reason why a lot of people don't report failures has to do with it being operator error. My buddy just trashed his STi engine from a 3-4-3 shift during a race. I could have ruined my engine on the way home from the Shootout by racing someone and I wasn't paying attention to the tach and over revved the engine to 8800 (2.4 Std rod). Those examples are similar to why most high HP cars break. They get the crap beat out of them and people mess up. At 900whp I can imagine people are over revving and missing shifts a lot! It gets very hairy at those speeds. And if it is a motor that is already strung out the margin isn't very high to keep it alive at 10K rpm. That's why I prefer smaller turbos on bigger motors. RPM kills stuff like crazy. I will only rev my car to 7k at most 95% of the time and when I am really getting after it 8k. But in a controlled environment I don't think an engine should have issues strictly because of X amount of power. If it does it isn't built correctly for that power level. If you are replacing bearings that often you are doing it wrong.

 

I agree with it taking an unusual wealth of knowledge to properly care for an evo that make a solid 900whp. I think most of the failure is on the driver and this false idea that its built and bullet proof. I noticed that most evo's that are living at High HP #s aren't on their first build either. As for 600hp car not staying together.. I would have to disagree with that.. My car, and 4 other locals have all been over 600whp for over a year and 2 of us are on stock block, and 1 is on his 3rd year making 790whp. We all share the same tuner and im only speaking on that.. between CBRD, STM, and TScomp there are a lot more then that running around just local to me.

 

for what it is worth here is one of my rod bearings i just pulled out of my engine. they have about 8K miles on them which is well over 800HP. these things are in pretty good shape. you do not need to replace them as often as some guys are saying. if your engine is built right, and you maintain it with proper oil and maintenance i see no need to have to replace bearings so often. i can post pics of all the others but there all the same as this one.

 

Obviously trial and error is a given otherwise parts and engine combinations would not be improved, perfected, and suggested over other parts or engine combinations. But it's all about the maintenance and usage...
I mean look at Buschurs RS... 725 whp on his Mustang dyno which I believe is 800+ on a dynojet. I don't think Buschur has had his bearings refreshed possibly for the past 2 years, but you'll have to ask him for confirmation.

Also these videos of Buschur tearing engines down to show how they put up under lots of boost and hp / torque:


Build it right, maintain your engine properly, drive your car sensibly, and you shouldn't have any problems no matter how many ponies gallop in your engine.

I'd say that 600whp is pretty reliable... Many members on this forum have had their 600+ engines for many years without any issues.

 

Like I said earlier, its all about oiling. The tune makes a difference of course but that will generally kill lots of other parts before the rod bearings.

 

What bearing clearances do you guys run on high hp cars?

 

I too would like to know.....after two motors spinning #1 bearing (1 making 650+hp and one making 850)

 

+3^^^^

 

factory mitsu built is very close to .0012 mains and .0015 rods. buy after market bearings and they will be very close to .002 on both rod and mains. it should be fair to say stock blocks can be pushed to 550whp or better as many have done it and put 10-20,000 miles with success. .002 should be fine to 800whp. after that you should think about getting them closer to .003. some builders state they like to land on .0028. most likely bearing clearances are not your issue as you are more likely just falling in the 95% bracket that I suggest is real. whole slew of reasons engines fail. more hp you make more likely it is to fail.

 

How about P2W and ring clearances in a 800-900awhp build?
Thanks

 

I have stock clearances and bearings in my 2.4. I actually used the original bearings with the original crank from the core motor. I used the rod bearings in the Crower billet rods. I run 20w50 oil with those clearances too. All the stuff you aren't "supposed to do" and have zero issues. My car isn't 900whp though. It will end up around 750whp though. It has lived 6k at approximately 600whp.