Iridium spark plugs
Stock ignition wires work very well. COP is usually only necessary running high boost, cams etc. If you go COP, check out the DIY how to or just get the kit from Sparktech.
Proper stock style connectors are essential to plug and play....
Proper stock style connectors are essential to plug and play....
Hi all,
this car has just undergone a 45,000KM (27,900 mi) service.
the log books states that the spark plugs were changed. (not sure if this is true as i was not issued with the invoice upon purchasing this car).
however, its been about 2,000KM since the service. I removed one of the plugs and it physically looks older than 2000km (1,200 mi). But I'm sure nothing would look glamourous in the cylinder heads.
What i had noticed was that the plugs were labelled "NKG IR"
are the OEM mitsubishi plugs NGK iridium?
this car has just undergone a 45,000KM (27,900 mi) service.
the log books states that the spark plugs were changed. (not sure if this is true as i was not issued with the invoice upon purchasing this car).
however, its been about 2,000KM since the service. I removed one of the plugs and it physically looks older than 2000km (1,200 mi). But I'm sure nothing would look glamourous in the cylinder heads.
What i had noticed was that the plugs were labelled "NKG IR"
are the OEM mitsubishi plugs NGK iridium?
Hi guys,
Im looking to buy some iridium spark plugs
However, I've noticed that some of the plugs are colder in the heat range.
it is said that "modified" engines should run colder spark plugs.
now, my question is… "what is…considered, modified"?
if i was to have;
Or "modified" means BIG power; Stroked, Large turbo, fuel pump, large injectors aftermarket ECU etc etc.?
Im looking to buy some iridium spark plugs
However, I've noticed that some of the plugs are colder in the heat range.
it is said that "modified" engines should run colder spark plugs.
now, my question is… "what is…considered, modified"?
if i was to have;
- Boost actuator (20psi)
- full exhaust including dump
- Cold air intake
- ECU tune
- BOV
- larger throttle piping
Or "modified" means BIG power; Stroked, Large turbo, fuel pump, large injectors aftermarket ECU etc etc.?
Hi Champ,
yeah i understand that part now in regards to the code.
however, I've seen pictures online of the OEM plug…

(i know the pic displays another part… but it shows its the OEM plug for Mitsubishi) ...So to me, the stock plug appears to be the iridium..
if so, i might give the Denso/Sard ones a try or maybe HKS
yeah i understand that part now in regards to the code.
however, I've seen pictures online of the OEM plug…

(i know the pic displays another part… but it shows its the OEM plug for Mitsubishi) ...So to me, the stock plug appears to be the iridium..
if so, i might give the Denso/Sard ones a try or maybe HKS
I posted this back in 2007, and remains the same.
"According to NGK Techs, the two plugs are the same except for two minor differences.
ILFR7H - OEM GAPPED AT .024" PLATINUM TIPPED ELECTRODE
LFR7AIX - SAME DIMENSIONS, GAPPED AT .028" (WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED) AND ELECTRODE IS NOT PLATIMUM TIPPED.
Difference is the OEM will last longer and will not need to have the gap adjusted. For a difference of $4 a plug, you can adjust the gap and change it at 20K, instead of 30K."
I'm about 150whp over stock and still run the LFR7AIX, stock heat range.
"According to NGK Techs, the two plugs are the same except for two minor differences.
ILFR7H - OEM GAPPED AT .024" PLATINUM TIPPED ELECTRODE
LFR7AIX - SAME DIMENSIONS, GAPPED AT .028" (WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED) AND ELECTRODE IS NOT PLATIMUM TIPPED.
Difference is the OEM will last longer and will not need to have the gap adjusted. For a difference of $4 a plug, you can adjust the gap and change it at 20K, instead of 30K."
I'm about 150whp over stock and still run the LFR7AIX, stock heat range.
Last edited by mdsevo06; Mar 7, 2014 at 02:01 PM.
I posted this back in 2007, and remains the same.
"According to NGK Techs, the two plugs are the same except for two minor differences.
ILFR7H - OEM GAPPED AT .024" PLATINUM TIPPED ELECTRODE
LFR7AIX - SAME DIMENSIONS, GAPPED AT .028" (WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED) AND ELECTRODE IS NOT PLATIMUM TIPPED.
Difference is the OEM will last longer and will not need to have the gap adjusted. For a difference of $4 a plug, you can adjust the gap and change it at 20K, instead of 30K."
I'm about 150whp over stock and still run the LFR7AIX, stock heat range.
"According to NGK Techs, the two plugs are the same except for two minor differences.
ILFR7H - OEM GAPPED AT .024" PLATINUM TIPPED ELECTRODE
LFR7AIX - SAME DIMENSIONS, GAPPED AT .028" (WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED) AND ELECTRODE IS NOT PLATIMUM TIPPED.
Difference is the OEM will last longer and will not need to have the gap adjusted. For a difference of $4 a plug, you can adjust the gap and change it at 20K, instead of 30K."
I'm about 150whp over stock and still run the LFR7AIX, stock heat range.
"According to NGK Techs, the two plugs are the same except for two minor differences.
ILFR7H - OEM GAPPED AT .024" PLATINUM TIPPED ELECTRODE
LFR7AIX - SAME DIMENSIONS, GAPPED AT .028" (WILL NEED TO BE ADJUSTED) AND ELECTRODE IS NOT PLATIMUM TIPPED.
Difference is the OEM will last longer and will not need to have the gap adjusted.
When it comes to plug electrodes:
Copper/Nickel - Shortest life, good conductivity
Iridium - Longer life, best conductivity
Platinum - Longest life, least conductivity
The reason why Iridium is favored over Platinum in turbo cars is because Platinum requires more energy to initiate a spark, which predictably exposes the limits of the OE ignition quicker. Iridium has the exact opposite effect. That being said, while the single Iridium LFR7AIX may not last quite as long as the OE Platinum tipped plug, it would be regarded as the better high performance option in this heat range.
Just FYI.
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