High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

Hey guys thanks for responding to my want ad, ermmmm thread question. That said I am finally looking to build my Evo IX Engine as I plan to be making well over 500WHP this summer and 450+ Pounds of torque. Now I know the stock block can handle a lot but I am looking for insurance. I am thinking just some simple drop in's will do but I am unclear on what a good rod for my purpose.

My mods are basic bolt-ons but I have a FP Red and I plan on 29PSI as I am already running it without much detonation, if any. Also I plan I using an Old School VSR and some serious cams so my WHP as of now is 460 and torque is a solid 400, I plan to add 50+ to both and that just may end my day.

I took a look over on FleaBay and they have the typical Eagle Rod/Weisco Piston combo for $750 but I am uncertain that those rods are much stronger than stock (They Are Lighter)

Step up to Manley Rods and the same pistons for $900. Both the Eagle and Mannley setup are H beams but I suppose Mannley is superior? I even read that these are the same exact rods just a different name on it, so I am kinds lost.

Basically I plan on staying with a stock frame turbo and stock displacement, I don't see myself going crazy sized single scroll turbos with tons of lag and poor drive-ability, I just need something that will last on a drop in basis.


Thanks again guys.

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

Do it once do it right. Manley h-tuff or turbo tuffs and 1400hd pistons. I believe in over building as it's cheaper to do it once than twice.

AreSTG

iTrader: (4)

only thing I'd say is if you are going to keep the power where you say, you really don't need the added weight of turbo tuffs. They are strong as heck, no doubt, and I run them, but they're heavy. If an H-beam meets your requirements go with the lighter rods that won't beat up bearings as fast.

jason42003

iTrader: (18)

I remember a member said that he contacted Manley and they told him the h-beams are only rated for 500ft-lbs of torque. So if your torque will be close to your hp goals then that would be too close for me. I have the h-beam rods and even 450 is too close for my tastes which is why I'm lowering my power goals. The turbo tuffs will hold more power but if you want ultimate rod strength Manley 300m rods are rated for 1500 hp. Just a few options for rods. There are many more such as Carrillo but Manley are the ones I know most of.

Pitside

Go with Turbo Tuff I-Beams and call it a day. You will have added security and if you every decide to upgrade power levels the engine is already done.

I went with the Tuff I-beams and 1400hd pistons, its been proven a solid build over and over again.

I would also recommend Curt Brown Racing to perform the services for you!

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

As always it's the cost. What I can't understand is how a MANLEY H Beam rod is barely stronger than a OEM Rod? I mean only 500 FT Pounds? I thought they were stronger than that?

EvoDan2004

iTrader: (94)

I have been running oliver rods for 5 years. I just pulled them out and had them check and they are still perfect. My SIG shows how I abuse them. The car makes over 650trq and the oliver rods are much lighter then most other companies. I would recommend them.

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

the cheaper k1, manley, eagle, scat rods will handle 500tq all day long. I like the scat rods best. there are very few threads of broke rods. and most of them can be attributed to abuse or poor tuning.

Benja

Agreed.
On a 2L especially, the cheaper H-Beams will do the job fine.

I tend to focus more on weight when upsizing rods also.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

It's simple. These rods, as well as Eagle, K1, Scat, Brian Crower, and various others are forged in China, and that metallurgy is not subject to the same QA/QC and SAE standards as the more expensive, professional-grade rods (e.g. Oliver, Arrow, Carillo, etc.). Manley is well aware of the limitations, and they don't disguise it. They'd rather steer high specific output applications away from budget rod options. Call them about it, and they're completely transparent. Their Turbo Tuff option is heavy for my liking, but it's cost effective. It's easy to make a lightweight rod and it's easy to make a strong rod, but it's neither easy nor cheap to make one that is both lightweight and strong...and using top-tier metallurgy.

Does that mean a 4G63 that generates 500 ft/lbs from only 4-cyls will snap a Manley H-beam rod? Not necessarily, but it isn't the best option, and there's no sense in pretending that it is. I'm with evodan2004 here in that I never take the cheap seats when it comes to critical rotating components, but that's a personal m.o. I also have a set of Oliver billets (156mm - 575g - E4340), and I'll probably will them to my grandchildren.

Just FYI.

Benja

Well said.
My Carrillo Pro-H's were mid 500's in the same length also

nursebetty

buy nice or buy twice!

batty200

iTrader: (3)

Crower billet rods are made in USA. Brian Crower H beam rods might be the same Chinese rods as the eagle and Manley H beam but not Crower.

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

I am speaking from nearly 20 years of 4g63 experience.

I think everyone is aware the cheaper rods are not equal to a more expensive billet ones. I have some scat rods that have lasted through three motors and they are still as new. they have seen 567tq and better. I will likely will them to my children. there are plenty of threads on dsm forums were people arent money thrift like evo crowd. plenty of feedback of 800-900whp motors using them without failures. if you ad up all the 4g63 rods being used. there are likely 20 times more eagle rods in use than anything else. yet rod failure threads are just as prevalent with higher priced billet rods.

if you want the extra insurance and have the extra cash by all means buy a more expensive rod. but power wise is certainly not the reason they are needed. and its certainly not a "not if but when will they fail" type of thing either. the cheaper rods have an extremely good track record of working very well in high hp motors without failure. they are night and day STRONG over a stock rod. I would rate a stock rod safe at 350tq. anything over that and it is a "not if but when" rod. I would rate an eagle rod at "all day long" at 600tq. they are that good and that much better than a stock rod.

and another important point is the more expensive rods do not save you when the build/tune goes south. if you spin a bearing your 750 dollar rod will be just as ruined as the 300 one. its just a more expensive lesson.

High_PSI

iTrader: (50)

OK well I'll never reach 600 Wheel torque at least I don't think I will. Eagle H Beams and Manley H Beams are the same?