Let's Talk About Rods, Shall We Boys?
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: botswana
I am speaking from nearly 20 years of 4g63 experience.
I think everyone is aware the cheaper rods are not equal to a more expensive billet ones. I have some scat rods that have lasted through three motors and they are still as new. they have seen 567tq and better. I will likely will them to my children. there are plenty of threads on dsm forums were people arent money thrift like evo crowd. plenty of feedback of 800-900whp motors using them without failures. if you ad up all the 4g63 rods being used. there are likely 20 times more eagle rods in use than anything else. yet rod failure threads are just as prevalent with higher priced billet rods.
if you want the extra insurance and have the extra cash by all means buy a more expensive rod. but power wise is certainly not the reason they are needed. and its certainly not a "not if but when will they fail" type of thing either. the cheaper rods have an extremely good track record of working very well in high hp motors without failure. they are night and day STRONG over a stock rod. I would rate a stock rod safe at 350tq. anything over that and it is a "not if but when" rod. I would rate an eagle rod at "all day long" at 600tq. they are that good and that much better than a stock rod.
and another important point is the more expensive rods do not save you when the build/tune goes south. if you spin a bearing your 750 dollar rod will be just as ruined as the 300 one. its just a more expensive lesson.
I think everyone is aware the cheaper rods are not equal to a more expensive billet ones. I have some scat rods that have lasted through three motors and they are still as new. they have seen 567tq and better. I will likely will them to my children. there are plenty of threads on dsm forums were people arent money thrift like evo crowd. plenty of feedback of 800-900whp motors using them without failures. if you ad up all the 4g63 rods being used. there are likely 20 times more eagle rods in use than anything else. yet rod failure threads are just as prevalent with higher priced billet rods.
if you want the extra insurance and have the extra cash by all means buy a more expensive rod. but power wise is certainly not the reason they are needed. and its certainly not a "not if but when will they fail" type of thing either. the cheaper rods have an extremely good track record of working very well in high hp motors without failure. they are night and day STRONG over a stock rod. I would rate a stock rod safe at 350tq. anything over that and it is a "not if but when" rod. I would rate an eagle rod at "all day long" at 600tq. they are that good and that much better than a stock rod.
and another important point is the more expensive rods do not save you when the build/tune goes south. if you spin a bearing your 750 dollar rod will be just as ruined as the 300 one. its just a more expensive lesson.
780/590 on Eagles up to 9500rpm. I would say they are great deal stronger than the stock. We have a Honda making 880/530 revving up to 10,800 on Eagles.
We use the K1s now which are better than the Eagles. I have made 630 ft lbs on H beams and got away with it for what that is worth. The Manley H beams arent any better than any of the other H beams and in my opinion the turbo tuffs are heavy. 690g for a 150mm where the R&R I beam is 608g for a 156mm. I havent weighed a 150mm in an R&R in quite awhile but I will see if I have a set on the shelf to weigh.
We use the K1s now which are better than the Eagles. I have made 630 ft lbs on H beams and got away with it for what that is worth. The Manley H beams arent any better than any of the other H beams and in my opinion the turbo tuffs are heavy. 690g for a 150mm where the R&R I beam is 608g for a 156mm. I havent weighed a 150mm in an R&R in quite awhile but I will see if I have a set on the shelf to weigh.
Last edited by JohnBradley; Mar 9, 2014 at 02:52 PM.
FWIW, I've read through enough accounts of improper sizing of Eagle rods with various engine platforms such that I would not advise installing a set without first checking the large end for correct size and roundness. Some have found out the hard way.
Another sound recommendation is checking the Rockwell hardness of any Chinese rod, which is both cheap and easy to do. If one doesn't pass (which I've witnessed personally), it should be replaced.
Not necessarily. My own Olivers survived two badly spun bearings (bad oil seal) that trashed the crank without warning. We both know how this type of story oftentimes ends. The rods were sent to Oliver for testing, passed, and are running today. They're tough. 
Another sound recommendation is checking the Rockwell hardness of any Chinese rod, which is both cheap and easy to do. If one doesn't pass (which I've witnessed personally), it should be replaced.
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: seattle wa
I have a friend that made 625 torque on h beam using arp 2000 rod bolts.
My old evo boosted 36 psi on a 6262 aggressive map was over 500 torque.
I wouldnt do eagle h beam but manly if you are on a budget work very well
My old evo boosted 36 psi on a 6262 aggressive map was over 500 torque.
I wouldnt do eagle h beam but manly if you are on a budget work very well
iirc the eagles and manley h beams are the same, scat h beams have an extra oiling hole in em.
Correct me if I am wrong someone.
Also a local here ran the eagle h beams to mid-9's in the 1/4 and made close to 800whp on a 3586, so I know the tq was higher than 500. He had that built motor for more than 30k miles
Correct me if I am wrong someone.
Also a local here ran the eagle h beams to mid-9's in the 1/4 and made close to 800whp on a 3586, so I know the tq was higher than 500. He had that built motor for more than 30k miles
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