I got my water pump bolts mixed around in the process of doing a timing belt job, and just want to ensure I put them in the right place.

Here's a picture of the water pump bolts


And here's a picture of the water pump


Can anyone clarify which bolts go in which holes? Thanks!

 

I just did this tonight. As I take out bolts I place them in the new water pump for reference.

The longest bolt goes in the upper left that also anchors the alternator bracket. The next longest bolt goes below that. IIRC the shortest bolt goes to the far right.

The main thing is to put thread sealant on the middle top bolt. Otherwise you'll have an oil leak.

 

Interesting. I don't recall the FSM requiring you to do this. I know you should do this to one of the motor mount support bolts though.

 

Thanks for the help! I'm taking my water pump apart again because I found it was leaking coolant a little bit ago. I was thinking the bolts were in incorrectly, the gasket wasn't seated properly, or the pump itself is shot (went with non-OEM). Could the fact I didn't use thread sealant on the water pump bolt have caused the slow coolant leak?

Also, is the long motor mount bolt that goes through the rubber supports and the metal piece the one you should use thread sealant on?

 

why on the motor mount support bolts? last time i looked into the hole in my block i didn't see the bolt home open to any oil. unless i didn't look good enough.

but as far as the water pump goes, i put sealant on all the bolts just for safe keeping cause the last thing you want is a leak and have to pull everything apart again.

 

No sealant there needed. The only ones you need sealant on are the ones that tap in to an oil galley. I happen to have the cylinder head off and put a light on it. I also check the ends of all the bolts during the t-belt job to see which ones had oil on it. This was the only one, but I put thread sealant (not to be confused with thread locker) on all the short bolts to the water pump. The long bolts don't come close to any oil galleys.




Here's where you need sealant for the engine mount, but you shouldn't have taken this off for a t-belt job.

(not my pic)


Someone said the auto tensioner needs sealant, but mine were dry on the ends. I put sealant on there just in case.

BTW, this is but make sure your check all of your idlers including your accessory idlers. 1st t-belt job in this Evo only the idler nearest the front of the car (behind the power steering bracket) was bad. This time (2nd t-belt job) the balance shaft belt idler/tensioner, acc. belt idler, and acc belt tensioner pulley were bad.

 

I prefer to replace all the idler pullies as well when doing a timing belt. Its a little bit more cost, but since your in there its not a bad idea. I don't know if I like the idea of having those idlers in there until the 120k mark, assuming you do a belt every 60k.


--- as far as the thread sealant, its required for the motor mount support bolt because there is no gasket so you need something to seal it. The waterpump gasket should seal that in theory, and that's why the FSM doesn't state anything about thread sealant on that water pump bolt. Its probably not a bad idea, but it shouldn't need it if the bolts are torqued to spec....... Maybe its like the older ford engines where you have to use both rtv and the gasket to help seal better.

 

I agree

I meant to say that I change all the idlers and auto tensioner regardless if they are good or bad. I just find it interesting which ones go bad. This is the first time I've changed the Accessory idlers.

You could change the front oil seals too. I decided against this on this job due to it being bone dry.