bluish smoke on start up,need help!
thanks for that suggestion, someone else told me to do that as well so yeah I will look into getting one done before changing valves. I must say though that I had a stupid small filter think like that the car came with. The valve cover hose ran to it which then was connected to the turbo intake pipe. The friend that did my build had me remove it since he believed that it was choking the valve cover to breath so after removing this I noticed my car not racing away on idle at cold start and not throwing that significant amount of smoke in the mornings but still smokes on deceleration and greyish smoke on full boost. I am thinking now if that's what cause this whole smoking problem to the fact that I have to replace and fix something now.
Now that you say you are getting bluish smoke at normal driving conditions, That points to bad rings or turbo seal, or a kinked turbo oil return, or a issue in the PCV system.
Now if rings, it would not clearance as an issue, but the wrong grit stone used when the block was honed, to coarse of a stone would just chew the rings up in short order.
If the PCV system is the issue, the oil vapors are not being vented correctly, and being sucked into the inlet track, the TB blade should be overly oily.
If turbo, it could be caused by high oil pressure into the turbo, forcing oil past the seals.
A kinked oil return will not allow the turbo to drain properly, and allow oil to be backed up into the turbo, forcing oil past the seals.
Run a leak down test, this will let you know how well the rings are seating.
Now if rings, it would not clearance as an issue, but the wrong grit stone used when the block was honed, to coarse of a stone would just chew the rings up in short order.
If the PCV system is the issue, the oil vapors are not being vented correctly, and being sucked into the inlet track, the TB blade should be overly oily.
If turbo, it could be caused by high oil pressure into the turbo, forcing oil past the seals.
A kinked oil return will not allow the turbo to drain properly, and allow oil to be backed up into the turbo, forcing oil past the seals.
Run a leak down test, this will let you know how well the rings are seating.
first thing I did was change the pcv valve but didn't change anything, I didn't check turbo as my guy was sure it wasn't but I think I need to pull the turbo intake pipe out see if it leads to that.
I decided to do a compression test today on my car and these were the results:
cylinder#1 165
cylinder#2 155
cylinder#3 155
cylinder#4 160
So now I know for sure that my motor is pretty healthy, I am leaning more on valve seals as the shop that did the compression test confirmed this as well. They also said because I am using the gsc s2 on stock valve seals and springs that its putting a lot of beating on the seals so I am thinking of getting springs and retainers to prevent having this problem again in the near future.
Which springs and retainers would be recommended supertech or gsc?
cylinder#1 165
cylinder#2 155
cylinder#3 155
cylinder#4 160
So now I know for sure that my motor is pretty healthy, I am leaning more on valve seals as the shop that did the compression test confirmed this as well. They also said because I am using the gsc s2 on stock valve seals and springs that its putting a lot of beating on the seals so I am thinking of getting springs and retainers to prevent having this problem again in the near future.
Which springs and retainers would be recommended supertech or gsc?
I decided to do a compression test today on my car and these were the results:
cylinder#1 165
cylinder#2 155
cylinder#3 155
cylinder#4 160
So now I know for sure that my motor is pretty healthy, I am leaning more on valve seals as the shop that did the compression test confirmed this as well. They also said because I am using the gsc s2 on stock valve seals and springs that its putting a lot of beating on the seals so I am thinking of getting springs and retainers to prevent having this problem again in the near future.
Which springs and retainers would be recommended supertech or gsc?
cylinder#1 165
cylinder#2 155
cylinder#3 155
cylinder#4 160
So now I know for sure that my motor is pretty healthy, I am leaning more on valve seals as the shop that did the compression test confirmed this as well. They also said because I am using the gsc s2 on stock valve seals and springs that its putting a lot of beating on the seals so I am thinking of getting springs and retainers to prevent having this problem again in the near future.
Which springs and retainers would be recommended supertech or gsc?
yeah was told to get the supertech, but does anyone here had or have experience running the stock retainers on supertech or gsc valve springs? Will the stock retainers keep up or no thanks.
I had this problem and found a valve guide seal came loose. I replaced them but still had the same problem. Took the head off and found excessive play in the valve from worn out valve guides. Got guides replaced and all good now.
thanks for the input I bought valve seals already, valve guides aren't expensive either but I will do springs as I am in there.
I also replaced my retainers with supertech ones along with the springs just felt it was worth skimping. I got everything in a package deal.
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From: Bozeman
Rings bad enough to make blue smoke while driving should cause serious blow-by which would be evident in the form of dipstick blowout.
When you say oil around the spark plug galley, do you mean inside the cylinder head or do you mean pooled around the top of the spark plugs, like by the cable boots? The former suggests some kind of oil leak inside - could be turbo seals, valve stem seals, PCV, lots of things. But the latter, oil around the cables, can pretty much only be the valve cover seal. And that still shouldn't make blue smoke 'cause it's isolated from the combustion chamber.
When you say oil around the spark plug galley, do you mean inside the cylinder head or do you mean pooled around the top of the spark plugs, like by the cable boots? The former suggests some kind of oil leak inside - could be turbo seals, valve stem seals, PCV, lots of things. But the latter, oil around the cables, can pretty much only be the valve cover seal. And that still shouldn't make blue smoke 'cause it's isolated from the combustion chamber.
Rings bad enough to make blue smoke while driving should cause serious blow-by which would be evident in the form of dipstick blowout.
When you say oil around the spark plug galley, do you mean inside the cylinder head or do you mean pooled around the top of the spark plugs, like by the cable boots? The former suggests some kind of oil leak inside - could be turbo seals, valve stem seals, PCV, lots of things. But the latter, oil around the cables, can pretty much only be the valve cover seal. And that still shouldn't make blue smoke 'cause it's isolated from the combustion chamber.
When you say oil around the spark plug galley, do you mean inside the cylinder head or do you mean pooled around the top of the spark plugs, like by the cable boots? The former suggests some kind of oil leak inside - could be turbo seals, valve stem seals, PCV, lots of things. But the latter, oil around the cables, can pretty much only be the valve cover seal. And that still shouldn't make blue smoke 'cause it's isolated from the combustion chamber.
found the oil on the threads of the spark plug not a lot just a little, but the plugs are burning fine. I am waiting to replace valve seals along with upgraded springs.
update:
We remove the valve cover to look for damaged valve seals and looks like the valve seals are still in pretty decent shape, they haven't been removed yet but by looking at it from under the springs my builder said they still look like new . I am still going to have him change them even though he is now leaning more towards bad rings. I am surprised rings could go bad just within 7 months even though proper break in was done 1k miles.
So I had initially plan to replace springs and retainers , but now if I have to replace rings I was thinking of holding out on the springs and retainers and just replace the bottom end with new rings. How much of you guys here are running stock spring and retainers with upgraded cams?
We remove the valve cover to look for damaged valve seals and looks like the valve seals are still in pretty decent shape, they haven't been removed yet but by looking at it from under the springs my builder said they still look like new . I am still going to have him change them even though he is now leaning more towards bad rings. I am surprised rings could go bad just within 7 months even though proper break in was done 1k miles.
So I had initially plan to replace springs and retainers , but now if I have to replace rings I was thinking of holding out on the springs and retainers and just replace the bottom end with new rings. How much of you guys here are running stock spring and retainers with upgraded cams?
Last edited by boost556; May 19, 2014 at 06:49 PM.
update:<br />
We remove the valve cover to look for damaged valve seals and looks like the valve seals are still in pretty decent shape, they haven't been removed yet but by looking at it from under the springs my builder said they still look like new . I am still going to have him change them even though he is now leaning more towards bad rings. I am surprised rings could go bad just within 7 months even though proper break in was done 1k miles.<br />
So I had initially plan to replace springs and retainers , but now if I have to replace rings I was thinking of holding out on the springs and retainers and just replace the bottom end with new rings. How much of you guys here are running stock spring and retainers with upgraded cams?
We remove the valve cover to look for damaged valve seals and looks like the valve seals are still in pretty decent shape, they haven't been removed yet but by looking at it from under the springs my builder said they still look like new . I am still going to have him change them even though he is now leaning more towards bad rings. I am surprised rings could go bad just within 7 months even though proper break in was done 1k miles.<br />
So I had initially plan to replace springs and retainers , but now if I have to replace rings I was thinking of holding out on the springs and retainers and just replace the bottom end with new rings. How much of you guys here are running stock spring and retainers with upgraded cams?
<br />
Wait. <br />
Stop blindly changing things and pulling things apart for no reason. Unless you're doing this yourself, you're literally throwing away money. <br />
<br />
Find another shop and let them do a leak down test for you. Not a compression test. That way you can rule out the rings and avoid paying for a complete rebuild. A compression test won't help you here.
Additionally, I wouldn't run gsc s2 cams without at the very least running a set of map beehives. They might not be absolutely necessary to run them, as you can see. But when **** hits the fan you'll regret saving that $170
Last edited by MyronGainz; May 21, 2014 at 11:18 AM.
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