EvilTechnology

iTrader: (64)

I'm having an idle problem and looking for ideas on what it could be.
Fresh build. First couple starts were fine, now it doesn't want to stay running after it warms up a bit. So idle better during cold start, but even then it sounds like it's running on three cylinders for a bit....then kinda sorta evens out, but then first stop sign it'll stall unless I keep my foot on the gas.
After it's warm, it wont start unless I keep my foot on the gas.

I also noticed that if I'm parked and rev it up, it really doesn't want to got past 5500rpm. Before the build it would easily rev higher. It's not sharp brap brap brap like a 2-step, but more of a soft muddy kind of feeling, almost like it's breaking up.

After first drive around the block yesterday I pulled into the driveway, shut it off and hopped out after popping the hood. Heard 3-4 loud clicks from the injector resistor pack. Could a bad resistor pack do this?

Idled/ran perfect before build. The following sensors were replaced during build:
front 02
Crank position
thermostat
oil pressure
coolant temp

cams were changed from HKS 272's to GSC S3's. Went from stock intake manifold to a MAP REV3, deleted EGR, PCV. I believe EGR was turned off by Aaron during my old tune.
Build is a 2.2L 4G63, ER built head, AFI TS T4 GTX35R

car is on SD, running RC750's, as it was before the build. Fuel pump is a drop in 255 walbro, can hear it working.
fresh plugs, gapped to .020
runs Spoolin Up COP, as before

Still doing break in miles so not beating on it, but it also feels like it doesn't want to rev past 5500, like it's either breaking up or theres an increase in vibration.

No check engine lights.

I would just drive it to ER for a tune, but it's almost 200 miles away. Tuner says that maybe since it's on the old tune, cold start is fine since it's enriched, but then goes lean due to increased displacement etc.

Readings from AEM wideband seem the same as before.

I've been told to do a boost leak test, but I thought that wasn't as important with SD, especially since I'm staying out of boost for break in anyway?

How can check for spark while I'm using a COP?

It's also been suggested that an injector isn't firing and not to drive it or let it idle for long. I need to drive 6 miles home from work tonight.

PLugs looked good, kind of a tan/brown. Should have got some pictures of them.

I know that's a lot of info lol

CLifs: new build, crappy idle, wont stay running after warm up unless foot on gas, breaks up or something after 5500 rpm, sounds like a subaru for 10-15 seconds after start.

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

Because SD tune on radically different combo than before.

EvilTechnology

iTrader: (64)

Aaron- What can I do to get it driveable enough to make it down your way? Do you have another file I can load as a basically no boost, safe mode tune, perhaps for the 1120's I've got sitting here?

I guess what boggles my mind is that the first 8 or so starts, even after warming up, were fine. These issues didn't start until I drove it around the block. After which, I also heard the loud clocks from the resistor pack.

nikush

iTrader: (9)

Hi, I Have a same problem with warm start/idle on my 2.4 LR setup with R2 cams and 1120 Fic injectors. run on MAF . Reving Good till 7300 Rpm And don't hear any clicks from resistor pack. But have some issue after shifting, its like car stoped on a sec and then run.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It probably lean which is why it won't rev. Why are you trying to free rev a motor that's need broken in anyways? Add VE in the VE/RPM table, or go get it tuned before you hurt it...

4g63Moon

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like one of the injectors isnt working right. Start up the car, while its idling unplug the injector harness plugs one at a time. it should have a hard time idling which is noral with one of the sensors unplugged. Which ever one that has no effect on the idle with the injector harness sensor unplugged is the faulty one. Take that one out and clean it/exercise them with the 9v battery.