I finally got around and installed the EF4 Turbo on my 2.3L Evo.
After a long day at the dyno, and realizing that the WGA that was provided with the turbo was not able to boost higher than 24-25psi, I changed the WGA to a FP 25psi. After opening the boost controller all the way, I could only see 28 psi spike on 3rd gear, and probably 29psi on 4th gear. The turbo seems to be holding 25 psi at 7.5k rpm.
The boost controller is about 6-7 years old, the FP WGA was used on the stock turbo and was able to boost 30psi.
Where can I start looking for the problem? I was hoping the turbo would be able to boost 32-35 psi.

Thanks

 

I have seen boost controllers go bad because of the spring in them (if it is a manual boost controller). if you have a hallman, you can order a "rebuild" kit for it which comes with a new spring. worth a try and really isn't expensive

 

Ordered a rebuild kit for it. New stiffer spring, with new seals. Boost gauge wont go over 28-30psi.
Any other ideas?
I just had the Turbosmart WGA tested at turbosmart, and they said it passed inspection. They checked it and it didnt open up until 22psi and held pressure to 40psi using a manual boost configuration.
I am out of ideas. The only thing I can think of, is the turbo is not working properly, or the flapper damaged/bent.

Thanks

 

So, if I am understanding you correctly you have 2 wastegate actuators. You have both the Turbosmart that came fitted to your turbo from MAP, as well as an FP 25# HD actuator. You have both actuators correct? Which actuator is on the turbo right now?

 

Sorry.
I had a 25 FP actuator, I sold it before I could test it.
All I have right now, is to get the wga back from turbosmart, and preload the heck out of it to be able to get higher boost, if that helps.
I know I have no boost leaks.. so its leading towards the turbo.

 

Yeah, if no leaks then I would lean towards it being insufficiently preloaded. Does your Turbosmart actuator have the heaviest rate spring in it? Do you know how to test the actual spring pressure on your setup once you install the WGA on your turbo by running a hose from the j-pipe nipple to the nipple on the actuator canister, right?

 

I did not know about the WGA testing using that method, but thanks for the info, I know now. The WGA was preloaded, but I will have to go extreme and add much more preload and install it using an air compressor to help me pull the wga arm to the flapper arm.
My biggest concern, is that I run dual maps, and if I preload the heck out of the WGA, my pump tune will be running at a much higher boost (scary). But as long as I get to be able to boost 35-38psi on the turbo I will be happy. That should put me in the 600HP+ I am looking at getting.

 

My guess would be the boost controller itself. What kind of boost controller is it? I know that my wga is set to 26 psi and that's all I run currently. If your not making more boost then that and your turning the boost controller up then you have another issue, the wga is doing its job. Did you make sure your controller is set up correctly? I know that is a common error that will have an effect on your setup.

 

The method that I outlined above, i.e. routing a hose directly from the compressor discharge nipple to the nipple on the WGA allows you 1) to establish and verify the actual level of WG spring pressure(base pressure + preload). 2) with the hose routed this way and by adjusting the actuator rod length by rotating the turnbuckle counterclockwise until you reach the point where the hole in the turnbuckle freely slides on and off the peg on the flapper valve's pivot arm, you can determine base pressure. And, finally, you can 3) adjust preload to a level high enough to maximize turbo spool for your particular peak boost level.

In your case, determining current spring pressure and adjusting preload up to a level a couple PSI below your lo-boost map's peak boost level is essential because you have a dual map setup(lo boost map/hi boost map). Since each map has a different peak boost level, one option would be to set preload at about 2# lower than the peak boost level on your low boost map. You won't be able to preload higher than your low boost map's peak boost level because otherwise you will simply overshoot that level.

For example, if you want to limit peak boost to 20# for your lo-boost map then you would adjust preload to 18#.This preload level is just about ideal for a 20# peak. However, by contrast, an 18# preload is kinda low for your hi-boost(30+ PSI)map and you won't be able to maximize spool for the higher peak boost setting.

Part of the problem is the wide spread between the two different peak boost levels. In your case, I might approach preload a bit differently thus: maximize spoolup by controlling your low boost setting strictly via WG spring adjustment. That is, if for example you know that the lo peak level is gonna be 20#... so tighten the WG actuator to keep the flapper valve planted on its seat until 20# with the boost controller knob zeroed out to it's lowest boost setting. So, the boost controller is not a factor whatsoever in the lo-boost peak setting. The boost controller device will only come into play to limit peak boost at the 30# peak level for your hi-boost map.

So, if your lo-boost map's peak boost level is 20# you will preload the turbo's WG spring pressure to 20# with the boost controller zeroed to its lowest possible setting. Then if your hi-boost map's peak boost level is 30#, you wiil increase from that 20# spring pressure level up to 30# via boost controller adjustment.

Do I make myself clear? Zero out the mbc completely and set your lo-boost map peak level solely via preloading the WG spring via actuator adjustment. The hi-boost map's peak boost level you will control via mbc knob adjustment. Conversely, when you want to revert back to your lo-boost, pump gas map...you just zero out your mbc to its lowest possible adjustment and your boost will be limited to 20# again.

 

Incidentally, since you are using a MBC then you can find out how much spring pressure your WG is set to w/o routing the hose from the compressor outlet to the WGA. Simply back the MBC's adjustment knob out all the way counterclockwise to full soft(-). Take car for a WOT run in 3rd or 4th gear and observe peak boost reading on your boost gauge.

 

So Sparky (and everyone else). After replacing radiator (not related), and sending the WGA in to get checked out by Turbosmart, I decided to perform the steps identified above.

WGA with little to no preload, 23psi boost (spring wga pressure). Increasing boost pressure with boost controller, I can only achieve 28. No matter what.
So I decided to remove the nut on the WGA and preload the sucker to its max. Boost with boost controller turned all the way out (no addition of pressure) puts the turbo at about 26-27 psi. Turning the boost controller all the way open (max boost), gains me about 1 psi putting me at 28psi. So it doesnt matter what I do, it seems that the turbo only wants to see 28psi.
I the oil line (filtered oil) going straight from the pump to the turbo, I dont think that would be the issue, if the turbo didnt get oil it wouldve died on me by now.
If I had a boost leak, I would definitely hear it or know of it, the turbo should be able to spike much higher, and not hold pressure if the boost leak was the case.

What are other things you guys advice for me to do?
I have an RMA from map (they have been awesome as always). But before I remove the turbo I would like to try and check as much as I can.

Thanks
Regards!

 

Soooooo you still haven't actually done a boost leak test yet??

 

I did one. But I havent done another one after the radiator install and removal of one intercooler pipe. Car is behaving the same way as it did before and after the boost leak test. A boost leak not allowing me to boost higher than 28-30 psi should be huge. But before I remove the turbo (in the case needed), I will definitely make sure I do another one just to make sure.
I am looking for more ideas before I can start narrowing it down to the turbo.

Thanks

 

i still don't know what kind of boost controller you have. if its a leak style you could be easily over powering it. if its a block style than it may be bad. before i get blazed here with what i'm about to suggest. BE CAREFUL , you can obviously take your line off of your wga and see if it will boost to whatever you desire.