Road Racing Application, which built motor?
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From: Bay Area, California
Road Racing Application, which built motor?
Hey guys,
Just wondering what you guys would recommend for a road racing/track car built motor. Right now I was considering the 2.3 stroker or the 2.0 LR... open to other suggestions. Please include pros/cons and which will last through many many track days per year. I am leaning towards the 2.3 buschur block due to the torque... but I really wonder what will last the longest with continual road race application..
Thanks in advance guys! If there is another thread that explains this feel free to post it and delete this one mods!!
-Jon
Just wondering what you guys would recommend for a road racing/track car built motor. Right now I was considering the 2.3 stroker or the 2.0 LR... open to other suggestions. Please include pros/cons and which will last through many many track days per year. I am leaning towards the 2.3 buschur block due to the torque... but I really wonder what will last the longest with continual road race application..
Thanks in advance guys! If there is another thread that explains this feel free to post it and delete this one mods!!
-Jon
I am planning an engine build in the not to distant future and will likely go with an ER 2.2 build with a winberg crank. Like Aaron hints at, torsional whip is no joke with extended high rpm use. Some builders like jackstransmission recommend keeping your balance shafts, and/or a fluidampr.
Also oil temps play a huge role in longevity. So an upgraded oil cooler is recommended (think Setrab 19 or 25 row). Also, make sure the airflow is channeled to the oil cooler. Hel did a bunch of testing in the UK and found that all too often air was just going into the wheel well. Turns out things like the Varis oil cooling duct guild actually work really well.
Other than that, just go with a reputable builder that has experience building purpose built track 4G63 motors, and do what they say.
Also oil temps play a huge role in longevity. So an upgraded oil cooler is recommended (think Setrab 19 or 25 row). Also, make sure the airflow is channeled to the oil cooler. Hel did a bunch of testing in the UK and found that all too often air was just going into the wheel well. Turns out things like the Varis oil cooling duct guild actually work really well.
Other than that, just go with a reputable builder that has experience building purpose built track 4G63 motors, and do what they say.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, California
I am planning an engine build in the not to distant future and will likely go with an ER 2.2 build with a winberg crank. Like Aaron hints at, torsional whip is no joke with extended high rpm use. Some builders like jackstransmission recommend keeping your balance shafts, and/or a fluidampr.
Also oil temps play a huge role in longevity. So an upgraded oil cooler is recommended (think Setrab 19 or 25 row). Also, make sure the airflow is channeled to the oil cooler. Hel did a bunch of testing in the UK and found that all too often air was just going into the wheel well. Turns out things like the Varis oil cooling duct guild actually work really well.
Other than that, just go with a reputable builder that has experience building purpose built track 4G63 motors, and do what they say.
Also oil temps play a huge role in longevity. So an upgraded oil cooler is recommended (think Setrab 19 or 25 row). Also, make sure the airflow is channeled to the oil cooler. Hel did a bunch of testing in the UK and found that all too often air was just going into the wheel well. Turns out things like the Varis oil cooling duct guild actually work really well.
Other than that, just go with a reputable builder that has experience building purpose built track 4G63 motors, and do what they say.
I have a 25 row oil cooler setup
Why not a LR 2.0 were you can stay in the lower gears but obviously at higher RPM to do this?
The only negative I can think with this is less load so possibly slower spool, torque?
Positives would be less shifting ie less boost loss.
The only negative I can think with this is less load so possibly slower spool, torque?
Positives would be less shifting ie less boost loss.
Spending a long time in higher rpms pushes a lot of oil into the head unless running a dry sump. So, you can't exactly utilize the advantages of the higher rpm capability of the 88mm crank on a road course.
Why not a 2.2LR and a Fp red would give you a good powerband for road race and will last a long time go to errnies build thread for the 2.2LR advantages. It also can still rev which can be good for certain circuits
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