ACD Code 82 - No Noise From Pump - Should i Rebuild?
ACD Code 82 - No Noise From Pump - Should i Rebuild?
I have the 3 ACD Lights and i am reading Tranny code 82
When i push the pedal i don't hear the pump motor run...
Will a rebuild kit have any effect on the motor running, or is there anything else common i should be looking for? Sensor/Fuse/Relay?

When i push the pedal i don't hear the pump motor run...
Will a rebuild kit have any effect on the motor running, or is there anything else common i should be looking for? Sensor/Fuse/Relay?

Last edited by felickz; Oct 17, 2014 at 06:34 PM.
When was the last time you did the ACD fluid and bled the system?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...code-82-a.html
I was having issues with my pump not working and I found out that I had air in my system...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...code-82-a.html
I was having issues with my pump not working and I found out that I had air in my system...
When was the last time you did the ACD fluid and bled the system?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...code-82-a.html
I was having issues with my pump not working and I found out that I had air in my system...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...code-82-a.html
I was having issues with my pump not working and I found out that I had air in my system...
No bleed since clutch change 100k ago, always thought it was a don't bleed it unless you need system. From your link he was getting code 82 but could hear the pump motor.
Not really, I just did the ignition on and throttle to the floor method. As soon as the system was pressurized, I got back under the car and cracked the zerk fitting. Left it open for a few seconds, closed it and then checked the reservoir and topped it back up. Keep in mind that the system will slowly depressurize and fill the reservoir again. I ended up overfilling the reservoir and had to use a syringe to remove the excess.
FSM might have a better method but it would need the MUT III or you can use a Tactrix.
FSM might have a better method but it would need the MUT III or you can use a Tactrix.
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Pump's electric motor output bearing was seized.
If anyone is unsure if their motor is shot because there is no audible motor sound try this:
Run the pump via Key in accessory position, wait 5 sec, then throttle down 10 seconds. I did this 3 times and the black electric motor cover was noticeably warm. This gave me the confidence that pulling the pump apart and repairing the corrosion damage would fix the unit.
Also, don't expect the 4 hex bolts holding the pump together to come out without a fight. We just happened to have a hammer powered impact tool that accepted any sort of bit that made the 1 hour process of fighting with PB Blaster go MUCH quicker. A good Hex #4 bit (5/32 was close) will be required!
After am hour of hand torquing, this was the solution: http://1drv.ms/1yQu0Bm
You would be silly not to slather on some sealant after looking at that corroded mess!
Pump's electric motor output bearing was seized.
If anyone is unsure if their motor is shot because there is no audible motor sound try this:
Run the pump via Key in accessory position, wait 5 sec, then throttle down 10 seconds. I did this 3 times and the black electric motor cover was noticeably warm. This gave me the confidence that pulling the pump apart and repairing the corrosion damage would fix the unit.
Also, don't expect the 4 hex bolts holding the pump together to come out without a fight. We just happened to have a hammer powered impact tool that accepted any sort of bit that made the 1 hour process of fighting with PB Blaster go MUCH quicker. A good Hex #4 bit (5/32 was close) will be required!
After am hour of hand torquing, this was the solution: http://1drv.ms/1yQu0Bm
You would be silly not to slather on some sealant after looking at that corroded mess!
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