I have installed an older style 7.25 V-Drive twin disc on my 5 speed 9. I do not have the vehicle in my possession at this time as it is at the shop where it will be getting tuned. However I have come across a problem, the tuner is advising me that the clutch is not engaging. When installing the ToxicFab pedal stop I had the car on stands, in 1st gear and the wife slowly pushing the clutch pedal as I tried turning the driveshaft to find where the clutch was disengaging so I can set the pedal travel. Would this not indicate that the clutch was engaging?

I had the car in different gears at different times on my driveway which is inclined and it didn't roll, I would think that would indicate the clutch is engaged? I did not install any shims on the HRB when I installed it as I bought it from another member and it didn't come with any shims or instructions. I also read in the https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tallation.html thread that the HRB doesn't need any shims when installed new (the discs were still at .248/.249") I've installed plenty of clutches so I figured it be just another straight forward install which it was. Buuuuut, I am being told by the tuner that it will likely need shims and that the reason for no clutch engagement is probably a faulty install.

Any advice?? I'd rather not have to pay hundreds of dollars to have them take the trans out to check everything or have to haul the car back and have to take all of it apart again myself and have to replace all of the fluids again not to mention the headache of removal and install on stands.

 

When the car is at idle , can you select the gears freely?

 

Clutch pedal depressed or up?

 

pressed to floor

 

I'm still waiting to hear back from my tuner... I called QuarterMaster 3 times and their tech support person is nowhere to be found.

 

The only thing I can really help out with is the shims are not needed. Its a direct bolt in for our cars. My advice is, keep adjusting it.
Although I adjusted my QM to what was recommended.. I did further adjust it to my liking because it wasn't performing how I thought it should.
Such as... sometimes I could select gears freely.. sometimes not. The clutch had to be completely depressed (or damn close to it) to freely shift. Just stuff like that.. of course, maybe I don't know how to properly adjust a clutch.. or drive. LOL!!

 

Update: I am told the car barely goes when the pedal is let go, but I am being told it might be shimmed to far...


Well there's a pedal stop in there, which in my opinion is a little too high even though its tightened all the way down, but yes he can change gears when the pedal is depressed.

That's the thing, I didn't install any additional shims. Maybe there were some in there and I didn't know it? I know the instructions aren't very clear as to how to install them so I don't even know where exactly they go.

 

What was your bearing to pressure plate clearance measurement?
The older twin disks from QM )Black in color) had an issue where the hubs of the two clutch plates would hit each other after they wore down to a certain point.

 

Ps almost positive in your case the trans will have to come out again. Who ever did the install is responsible and I would hold them liable.

I just had a similar problem with the newer QM twin disk. Ended up being a combination of two problems.

 

remove the pedal stop, and bleed the clutch. Make sure there is plenty of fluid.

Make sure all fittings are tight. I just help put a QM in an STI and the fittings were not tight, which resulted in a small leak, so for a few min the clutch was fine then all of a sudden nothing. Then puddle of brake fluid .

Start there, if that does not fix it then remove transmission and start to figure it out.


Also what someone else said, is the hubs on the clutch disk would bump into each other when the disks wear down. This would prevent the clutch from grabbing.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...age-usage.html

 

I didn't measure the clearance between the pressure plate and bearing, which is completely dumb on my part. Yup its the older black V-Drive one. The friction plates are brand new though so I don't see how that would be the problem. What were the two problems you were having that was causing the similar issue? It might help provide some insight into what I could be dealing with.

I bled the clutch with the pedal stop off, I had a hose from the bleeder feed right back into the master cylinder. There's plenty of fluid in there, honestly I think a tad too much fluid. All the fittings are tight and there are zero leaks in any of the clutch lines. The pedal feel is great and it definitely feels stiff, coming up to the top with no problems, it never once went to the floor after I bled it and you could tell the where the point of disengagement was.

 

I think I may have come across the answer to my problem. There's a plate/retainer behind the OE style throwout bearing, it looks like it centers the bearing, that I am now starting to think does not need to be installed with a hydraulic release bearing. I am about 98% sure I left this installed when I threw in the new release bearing. Looking at it now it does seem to have the potential to place the HRB closer to the flywheel/engine as it is tapered/beveled at the bottom, not letting the new hrb be flush with those bolt holes. The release bearing in a push style clutch being closer to the flywheel/engine would effectively disengage it and cause it to not make full contact.


Can anybody provide any info on whether or not this plate needs to be installed the QuarterMaster hydraulic release bearings?!

 

Yea, that's your problem. It needs removed.

 

So that retainer doesn't belong in there for sure then? I'm guessing you've installed a hydro bearing before? Not trying to be offensive or anything, just wanna make sure the info is from somebody who has done it before I go taking it out for the fourth damn time.

 

I should drop my box tomorrow so I could take pics of mine