Who can install Head Studs?
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From: Arlington, VA
Who can install Head Studs?
I am getting a dynoflash on friday but those damn head studs 
are giving me so much headache!
They are charging me at least $500 of labor to put those in.
And It is not something that I can easily do it in my apartment's garage.
What should I do?
are giving me so much headache!They are charging me at least $500 of labor to put those in.
And It is not something that I can easily do it in my apartment's garage.
What should I do?
read the post in the How-To's on how easily they can be installed by you.The valve cover is the only thing that needs to come off to do this,cam's do not need to be removed.Any shop chaging you over 2 hours labor is ripping you off as it can be done by anyone with limited tools and mechanical knoweledge in less than 2 hours in your own driveway/garage.hope this helps
Well memo3...sounds like you are quite unfalmiliar with the mechanicals. Which is fine. I would suggest you have it done. But you can do head studs without pulling the head by replacing one bolt with a stud at a time requiring only the valve cover gasket to be replaced. Peace
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How much boost are you planning to run? The stock head studs can handle around 24psi of boost in good tune. If you do not plan to run higher than that, I would suggest you save your money and keep the stock head studs.
By trying to short cut the install, you run the risk of unseating the headgasket and will be opening a whole other can of worms. When performing any mod to your car, realize all the risks involved should something go wrong. This is the underlying factor when deciding whether or not I should perform a mod myself. I've never done the short cut head stud install myself, BTW.
By trying to short cut the install, you run the risk of unseating the headgasket and will be opening a whole other can of worms. When performing any mod to your car, realize all the risks involved should something go wrong. This is the underlying factor when deciding whether or not I should perform a mod myself. I've never done the short cut head stud install myself, BTW.
They will stretch overtime, anytime you plan on running more boost than stock it is probably best to do it. It is just like taking your vitamins , it might not help you right then but later on it will keep you healthy (headgasket).
Originally Posted by Quickshift
They will stretch overtime, anytime you plan on running more boost than stock it is probably best to do it. It is just like taking your vitamins , it might not help you right then but later on it will keep you healthy (headgasket).
My suggestion would be to not short cut something so critical. If you’re going to do the job, do it right the first time around.
Search is your friend... there are posts of the OE head bolts and rod bolts giving out on everything from next to stock up to mods where people should know better... not a whole lot mind you, but enough to give caution. It's a matter of 50 people got away without it, and number 51 had to buy another engine. Are you the gambling man? ...or not. For the money spent, I'd say everyone who can, should have already installed both APR head studs and rod bolts. However, I'm quite the hypocrite right now, and the gambling man. Gambling on a reflash and nothing more... but gambling just the same.
Gambling on a reflash and nothing more... but gambling just the same.
Are you talking about this thread?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36273
I've driven 4g63 powered cars for the past 6+ years. DSMers and now EVO owners have proven time and time again that our stock engines to 22-24psi w/o issue IN GOOD TUNE. You have to remember that detonation is what stretches the stock headbolts and kills headgaskets. Too much timing, too lean a/f's, too much boost, and not enough octane can all cause detonation as cylinder pressures skyrocket at that point. I wouldn't blame the head bolts. Stronger headbolts may band-aid bad tuning, but that will put more stress on rods and rod bearings.
I don't see the need to replace the rod bolts until you reach the 475-500+whp level. Look at the AMS and Buschur shop cars. Both of them are fine examples showing what our stock short block can handle in good tune.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=36273
I've driven 4g63 powered cars for the past 6+ years. DSMers and now EVO owners have proven time and time again that our stock engines to 22-24psi w/o issue IN GOOD TUNE. You have to remember that detonation is what stretches the stock headbolts and kills headgaskets. Too much timing, too lean a/f's, too much boost, and not enough octane can all cause detonation as cylinder pressures skyrocket at that point. I wouldn't blame the head bolts. Stronger headbolts may band-aid bad tuning, but that will put more stress on rods and rod bearings.
I don't see the need to replace the rod bolts until you reach the 475-500+whp level. Look at the AMS and Buschur shop cars. Both of them are fine examples showing what our stock short block can handle in good tune.
But they have ARP's installed aswell, and they vouch for the ARP's in the engine for added security. lf you dont wanna install them more power to you, but the other people inquiring about them have some sense that they dont wanna waste 5grand on a new engine when it could have been prevented by $100 bolt kit . But the rod bolts are another story for me 
If I do those then I will be tossing in some forged goodies at the same time. Even with good tuning, you can have problems arise such as going to the gas station and thinking you are rely filling up on 93 oct when the mixture in the tank is 90oct .
If I do those then I will be tossing in some forged goodies at the same time. Even with good tuning, you can have problems arise such as going to the gas station and thinking you are rely filling up on 93 oct when the mixture in the tank is 90oct .