I only have VD numbers, I have no interest in putting it on a physical dyno.

 

VD would be fine info too

 

Went and visited my car yesterday to check on the progress, and the downpipe is completely fitted up and installed. However, im an idiot and completely forgot to take close up pictures of the downpipe fitment (my bad), but we are targeting tuning to start next week and i'll have the car back home where i'll take plenty of shots of fitment. Nonetheless, i'm very excited to see how this performs.

 

The STM with external dump fits mint on my FP Zero.

 

Are any of y'all using the STM downpipe with a 4G64 block?

 

I have a fp green w/ ss housing ordered and went with fp's new cast O2 housing. It's still in production but expected to ship by the end of the month. I can update after install for those interested.

 

i've finished bolting on my 73hta some time ago. i fabricated my own vband 3" s/s downpipe and full exhaust/muffler.

as for why no results yet.... my car is an evo-6 stock block. in process of trying to get the car ready for mapping. with a 1bar spring..the car hits 1.3bar'ish (creep). i haven't had time to mess with it just yet to see whats up..but i'll have to sort this out before tuning because i am stock block with a fair bit of miles..

FP mentions that with s/s housing, anything less than 20psi may be prone to creep. any other s/s housing owners experiencing this by any chance?

i will be tuning with 95oct.

 

Is the Evo 6 stock block much weaker than the 8/9? I would think you could safely make 300-350wtq without worry. I think 19lbs of boost should be fine..

 

i have 225,000km's (140k miles) on the clock and although every cylinder has decent compression..they are not the same. so this had me little worried. i am hoping to build it in 4-5 months time.

anybody experience the any boost issues?

 

Well, I finally got my car back after a long hiatus from on-going work. And after driving it for about 4 days, I found out that with the STM recirc'd downpipe, it comes awfully close to the factory radiator. Close enough that while driving it, the vibrations from the engine eventually put it into contact with the radiator enough times to rub through it. I will post pictures soon.


So, I will soon be changing out the busted radiator for a half size one. I'm sure a full size slim radiator would suffice as well, but I cant say for sure.

 

Maybe try contacting STM before you go with a half rad. It shouldn't be that close if STM design it to work with the stock radiator. Sounds like a minor setup in the issue in the jig, or a slightly wrong bend in the wastegate pipe is causing an issue that I'm sure STM can fix..

 

Hard to see from pictures, but you can probably see just how close it is. I'll probably drop STM an email just to see if they have had anyone else report this issue.

 

Loosen your clamps and push the downpipe at the bend by the oil pan. It will move further.

 

I just got in contact with STM. There has only been one other person to have the issue I had for the reason his car had been in a front end accident at one time. And my car being as old as it is, im sure its had a collision in its life. So, don't let this deter you from using the STM downpipe, it is a very solid piece.


Luckily in my case, I had plans to change the radiator anyway. I could tell it was getting tired.

 

That looks like it could be routed differently for more clearance..