now that the FP and other turbos no longer appear stock (they should have made the stainless in the same config as the MHI housings, IMO), i will most likely go the t3 route if/when i lose support for my MAP turbo.

 

I agree, FP should have stuck with an MHI replacement not something custom that will only drive price even more.

At this point I'm a bit dissuaded by all the options after we HAD such good ones before MHI housings became hard to find. For now, I think Im less concerned with finding a new turbo unless I happen on a good deal used in the BB Green/3B size

 

BBK-B was kind of the ultimate bolt-on turbo. Better spool than a red and more power than an HTA Green. Now what am I gonna do...

 

I've tuned quite a few GTPumps turbos of various sizing.
To give you equivelant DJ numbers, the 712 = ~500whp tapped on the typical setup, the 762, 580-600 tapped.

 

the turn is certainly not optimal, but realistically its no worse than 90 deg turn at the collector in the stock or fp exhaust manifolds. imho, the atp gtx stuff is the new best option for people who need/want a stock appearing setup for cost or emissions purposes. the gtx3076 should be pretty close to a 3b for peak power.

another comment is that i think that all options utilizing the oem turbo are on their way out because of the cost of new oem evo 9 turbos. even map turbos are unavailable.

 

Undoubtedly something will come in to fill the gap. Might be worth revisiting the HKS 7460. It had a rough release, but its gotten largely positive reviews since on lancerregister.

I still think a cast manifold that will accept EFR turbos is the answer.

Something like this http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/turbos...ifold/a-32000/

 

i agree, but it seems if FP would have made their SS housing the same as MHI, it would have benefited them. i know it doesn't make as much power, but there is a reason their MHI-based turbos were so popular. some of us are willing to give up a bit of performance to have it bolt right in to all our existing setups, still pass a visual smog check, etc.

in fact, i'm actually about to buy me the cheapest VIII turbo i can just for smog because i know, in the future, i'm going to have to go a different route for performance.

 

how "serious" is the visual check in CA?

If you were to have a tubular manifold that fits below the stock cover, would that be ok?

 

depends. smog shops here get hit HARD for not doing their jobs right so they are all super paranoid.

i've had a place go over the car with mirrors and a book to check everything and i've had places that just kinda take a look under the hood. it's really a crap shoot, but i know regulations are getting tighter.

as for the tubular, it would depend on how much showed under the heat shield.

i have a Turbosmart WGA and it won't pass unless i get lucky. i'll probably need to buy and OEM one to swap out.

 

turbo placement on the EFR stuff on the evo 8/9 makes it difficult-

you cannot run the IWG setup in VBAND on them - there isnt enough room to come out ;(

cb

 

I am looking forward to the BBK-3B vs. EFR back-to-back graphs. I mean, the BBK-B on 2.3 strokers would be at full spool around 3800rpms IIRC.

 

It looks like the manifold from turbozentrum changes the wastegate actuator bracket. http://www.turbozentrum.de/en/turbos...ifold/a-32000/

Looks like it pulls it in towards the turbo, seems like this might be the key.

Here is another example of a VW EFR kit using a cast manifold, and modified actuator bracket. http://www.performancebyie.com/blog/...50-turbo-kits/

 

we will have 2.2/2.3 testing-

also-

you cant move the actuator in relation to the turbine housing without screwing up alignment/actuation

cb

 

Also, make it like the LMP kit adder with the heat shield ducting with the hose at the front grill that pushes air over the manifold and ducted out the stock hood.

Then make it all fit with the stock radiator, stock placement ICPs, oil/water feeds, etc.

There we go...

 

The Integrated Engineering kits use a modified actuator bracket with a shorter actuator rod. If you keep the "angle" the same, can't you just lengthen/shorten the rod length and keep proper function.
http://www.performancebyie.com/blog/...50-turbo-kits/