I'm thinking about investing in a fp green turbo for my evo v , it's second hand the turbo done 2k miles , looking to pay 1000 pounds sterling for it and a set of rc800 fuel injectors updated fuel rail and a walbro fuel pump and a fuel reg ? Worth it? I have Hurd good and bad reviews about the fp green turbo what do you guys think of it ?

 

Excellent turbo. Guys that have given poor reviews typically don't take the proper steps to adequately vent crank case pressure.

 

Is that a journal bearing or a ball bearing? If it's a journal I'd say go for it, I wouldn't touch a FP ball bearing turbo with a very long pole!

 

Why?

 

lol ya i too would like to know that!

 

Probably basing his opinion on all the horror stories over the years about people running them and getting oil inside the compressor housing etc. Just have to follow the proper ventulation steps

 

Not so much as an opinion but from personal experience with FP BB turbos. An expensive crankcase ventilation system was installed in my car, -10 fittings in the valve cover to a sealed catchcan with a -12 to the intake pipe from the catchcan for suction. Rerouted the oil feedline, did all the things FP recommended, none of which did anything to stop so much oil coming out of the turbo that it filled up my intercooler piping and intercooler and sprayed oil all over my engine as the oil spat out of the BOV.

Has it tested on a dynamic balancer, no crankcase or motor attached to the turbo just a fan to force a measured amount of air through the turbo to spin it, and it leaked so much that the oil was literally running out of it. At the time this was one of 17 FP BB turbos that the turbo tech had seen come across his work bench leaking oil.

So go ahead and buy it if you want, even if it is a BB turbo, but don't say you weren't warned.

 

How much oil pressure did that test bench feed the turbo?

And I thought your name was familiar. You didn't properly setup your crank case vents. You can't have both of them go to the intake pipe..

 

I'll have to contact the guy who did the testing, it was probably 8 to 12 months ago.

I've been very vocal with my commentary on FP BB turbo's and will continue to be so. It's my opinion that FP have been deceitful in there conduct in regards to this matter. The amount of people I know or have meet that have had unfixable turbo oil leaks makes me believe that it is more than just a random minor issue as FP claim. The fact that they strangely removed their BB turbos from sale and gave contradicting reasons for this, a lie I pointed out in this webpage, had done nothing but confirm my thoughts on the matter.

I wouldn't be as adamant with my objections if FP had just admitted there was a problem but they start up with the "crankcase pressure issue" rubbish and get people to spend hundreds of dollars on remedies for issues that don't really exist and that have no effect on fixing the oil leak.

As far as your suggestion on having both crankcase vents going the the intake I don't, I have both going to a sealed catchcan, which in turn is plumbed to the intake. I have never heard this suggestion and would like a link to the information your suggesting.

 

You have both go to one catch can, which then goes to the intake tube. After a wot pull, you close the throttle and you lose pretty much all of the vacuum in the intake pipe, so you lose crank case ventilation.

My turbo leaked when I put it in, and I fixed it by adding a proper ventilation setup. The only reason FP pull the old BB turbos was because they had long been designing the new Xona CHRA, and it was nearing its release date. Nothing to do with a problem that doesn't actually exist. If the pressure inside the CHRA becomes higher than the pressure in either housing, the turbo will leak, it's as simple as that. And it goes for all bb turbos. The seals turbos use aren't rubber seals like a main seal in a crankshaft, they're more like a piston ring, and they require that difference in pressure to be correct or they don't work..

 

you are either going to get the answer that they are the greatest thing ever or they are hot trash. I personally had a fp red. When I first put it on I loved it, spool was nice, power was what I wanted. Slowly over a year I went from 475whp @27psi to mid 300 at the same boost. At first I though my motor was tired but knew I had an oil leak from taking off the intake. I did a compression test, all was good. So I put the evo9 turbo back on And made 370 same boost and dyno. i feel there is truth to the catch can stuff but I don't think its the only problem. You are better off just getting something like a 35r. The fp turbos aren't really remove and replace anymore. You will end up buying all of the same stuff minus a manifold but the turbo is 1000 more so it evens out.

 

Did you ever take it apart and look at it? There's a good chance the volute broke out of the exhaust housing and hurt the turbine wheel. Which isn't necessarily FP's fault. Its a failure mode of the OEM turbine housing.

 

So let me get this right. To use my new $2500 FP BB turbo I now need to install some form of electronic scavenger crankcase evacuation system so that when I get off the throttle after a wot run my turbo doesn't shoot oil everywhere, clog up my intercooler and fill my motor up with oil via the intake mani. This is on the same motor that worked fine at 400hp with the oem turbo and which also worked fine with the FP turbo after it was converted to a journal bearing, at my expense.

If nothing else you Forced Performance supporters are loyal, completely delusional, but loyal.

In regards to your suggestion about taking the original BB design off the market because they had a new one coming is news to me and I've been involved in the discussion on this issue since the very beginning. FP themselves have been part of this and have stated various reasons for this, including stating two different reasons in two different threads, a fact that I was more than happy to point out to them.

I guess the whole point of the thread is to help the OP work out if buying a used FP turbo is a good idea and like I've already said if it's the original ball bearing design I would avoid it. I'm sure lots of people are happy with them but I know an awful lot that aren't and I for one wouldn't take the risk.

 

You're still not understanding what was wrong with your setup..

ONE vent line goes to the intake via a catch can. And ONE line either goes VTA via a catchcan, or to the intake manifold via a catch can and PCV valve. You had both lines going to the intake pipe after a shared catch can. This is the wrong way to set this up.

And yes, you do need to properly upgrade the crankcase ventilation. I have not seen a single one of these turbo's need a vacuum pump, but I can tell the the 4.0 V6 in off road car which is naturally aspirated came stock with larger crankcase vents the the evo did, and it makes A LOT less power.

And on top of that, you still have not presented the fact of how much crank case pressure your engine had. I don't car about your bench test, a bench test is theory, it is not practice.

I'm not delusional, my car got a proper crankcase vent setup. And guess what, my turbo does not leak oil, and does not smoke any more. It literally stopped leaking all by itself one the crankcase pressure issue was addressed. Its amazing what a proper setup can do. Also, on top of my turbo no longer leaking, the car feels faster via the ol' butt dyno.

 

I was running the pcv valve via a catchcan to the intake mani, have a Saikou Michi in line.

Anyway I'm glad you're happy with your purchase and the money you spent on getting it to work on your motor, I myself would have rather spent the money on something else.

So going on that, to the OP, just put aside another $500 to $700 or so to build a dual catch can setup and a day or so to remove your valve cover, drill holes in it and tap those holes to screw in dash fittings. You'll also need to drill out the 20 rivets holding the oil baffling in to remove it to clean out all the metal from drilling the other holes. Also you'll need to tap those 20 holes and screw in bolts to securely reattach the baffling, and then, after you put it all back together, you'll have a turbo that might or might not leak oil. Awesome product the FP ball bearing turbo!