Even 8k rpm is pointless on a stock turbo. You don't get useful power at 8k until you get a good turbo upgrade. Something that flows at least as much as an FP green is need if you want to make power out to 8k. And even the green can start to taper off if you're on E85 and can make it hit hard with a boost spike down low because the boost tapers out the top.

 

Just go with the standard rod then if you're not planning on revving it to the moon. And I don't think the turbo tuff rods come in a H beam, pretty sure they're I beam only. A buddy of mine is using Eagle H beam rods on his 2.3L FP Green Evo 8. It makes 520/520 and his H beams have held up just fine after 20k miles and hard driving and many drag passes. You could go that route since they're a little less expensive

 

Just be really sure about your goal. I went from stock to fp red to fp black and e85 to super99 and 45psi. Don't want to buy anything twice.

 

I just finished off installing a 2.0LR motor, Manley 156mm I beams, custom stroker Wiseco pistons for a 9.5 compression ratio, linished oem crank, R2 cams. Running this with a modded FP Black (modded because mine pissed oil out) on 93 fuel (Aussie 98) to 35psi and 8500rpm for around 550hp. I changed out my bov because it couldn't handle 35psi and boosted out to 43psi for 600hp accidentally, still controlled though, no knock even at 43psi. Amazing what a good tuner can do, even on 93 fuel, wouldn't recommend 43psi though.

 

I did a fully built 2.0L

Block:
Manley Rods
Wisco HD 1400 9/1
Stock Crank
BS Delete
Cos-wort crank scraper
AMS Oil Pan

Head:
1MM over valves
Duel springs
Comp 301/302 cams
Full Port and Polish

The whole motor was balanced ( Crank, Rods, Pistons, Flywheel )

I am alittle lower compression then 9/1 because of a thicker head gasket had to mill the block down :-(.


Not a stock turbo i have a DBB T3 5857 we will see what i can get out of her. Staying with pump gas was the main reason to stay with 9/1. But the motor will most likely see 9K+ it is going to be m road race track car.

 

Why would you do cosworth scraper when the ams pan comes with it's own scraper?

 

The AMS scrapper was damaged and AMS would not sell me another scraper.

But after getting the Cosworth scraper it is better build then the AMS one. AMS one is just a bent peace of tin, where the Cosworth one is stamped out of 1/8 Steel and is vary sturdy. Along with the hardware it comes with it is over all better peace then the AMS Scraper.

 

What do you guys recommend for stock crank H-beam rods? Short rods with longer piston or long rods with short piston?

 

stock length rods are fine. The rod/stroke ratio is actually quite good with the stock rod length and stroke. Get the wiseco HD's with 9:1 compression ratio, a quality hbeam rod and you'll be all set.

 

I'm considering doing a budget 2.0 build here. Considering eagle h beam rods and Wiseco 10.5:1 E85 pistons. Car only sees E85, nothing else. This with my 71HTA should be a crazy little setup

 

Aaron at English Racing told me the 10.5:1 compression ratio is not really worth the head gasket issues it creates for the 5% power gain on a full kill tune. And definitely not worth the 2-3% gain on a safer, more modest, road course/track tune..

 

I run 10:5.1 in my 2.0LR revving to 9500 making 820whp for almost 1.5 years now with no issues.

 

That's great. I don't think Aaron is wrong though.

 

Finishing up a 2.0LR build here too:

-Manley Pro Series 156mm Turbo Tuff rods
-Manley pistons
-9.0:1 CR/stock bore and stroke

-Built and ported head with GSC S3 cams (soon, backordered) etc
-Stock IM/70mm TB
-FIC1000s
-BR double pumper

-Toxic Fab exh mani
-FP Black

-BR FMIC/UICP/LICP/4" intake
-Custom catch can setup

-Sheptrans trans/tcase w/Exedy Twin HD
-Swift Sport springs
-NRG bushings upgrade

Etc. 93 octane. Hoping for 550ish, but we shall see. IX SSL

 

Ok so I finally got the parts
Stock bore/stroke
Wiesco pistons 9:3:1
Eagle H-beam rod
stock crank

Head will be shaved
S1 cams (already installed)
Now is engine balancing necessary? Some people say yes some say no since I'm on stock bore it won't be required, but what do you guys think? Should I get it balanced or would I be wasting money...