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27psi on 91oct????!!!

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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #31  
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Why sell the pistons? Pick up another eagle rod, you can order singles from Eagle I think. Rering the pistons, get a crank and front cover/oil pump and slap it together. Do a BS delete while you're in there.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kaj
i didn't put the engine together. the owner of the shop i worked at did. Eagle rods with JE/Buschur drop-ins, yes.
i asked if checked all the clearances and he said "yes". i'm trusting him, as i didn't actually see him ever do it.

the first time the car ran after the build, there was a loud whine. turns out the bolt from the oil-pump balance shaft backed out. the bolt got beat around quite a bit. the bearings and balance shaft looked good, but that threaded cover for the shaft took some damage and was very hard to get out. my engine builder says he thinks metal from the bolt and/or cover contaminated the oil and caused the spin on cyl 3 and damage to cyl 4.
at least the cylinder walls all look perfect, which means i can sell the pistons and rods. well.. three good rods, anyway.

hearing rod knock on a fresh engine is the worst sound in the world.
I know you're at an annoying point in your build, but if a bolt backs out from the oil pump, going back to OEM ain't gonna make a bit of difference. Just try and look at this as a learning experience instead of packing it in and saying f-it.

(Easy for me to say, it ain't my money...right?).
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 11:12 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Why sell the pistons? Pick up another eagle rod, you can order singles from Eagle I think. Rering the pistons, get a crank and front cover/oil pump and slap it together. Do a BS delete while you're in there.
It’s just me being somewhat superstitious. I have, literally, had a horrible experience with every built motor I’ve ever tried. I’ve never had one work for me LOL.
I assume if I go back to an OEM setup, I can get another 125k miles on the engine. Unrealistic, I know.. but it seems people with forged engines do frequent rebuilds. I don’t want that. I’ll never see more than 400-450 and I track with about 350whp. Forged seems overkill anyway.
As for the BS delete… I want to, but read a .pdf file on the secondary harmonics transferring its way to the transmission, etc. that had me a bit worried. Plus it affects oil pressure?
Silly question, I guess… but why would I need new rings? I just broke these in  LOL

Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
I know you're at an annoying point in your build, but if a bolt backs out from the oil pump, going back to OEM ain't gonna make a bit of difference. Just try and look at this as a learning experience instead of packing it in and saying f-it.

(Easy for me to say, it ain't my money...right?).
LOL. Right haha. I have all the stuff to go back to OEM for free. I contacted Eagle for a rod, but have yet to hear back. I guess I figure if I go back to OEM, I know the clearances are right. The crank and rods came out together.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 01:03 PM
  #34  
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Oh, and I forgot. Since installing the pistons and rods, the car has been making no power. So I guess I'm hoping that putting the stock Pistons and rods back in May somehow solve that problem.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 01:39 PM
  #35  
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I'm going to guess there was an issue with that install. Nothing to do with pistons/rods. Unless they were clearance wrong, and it was eating up those bearings the whole, and the bolt falling out of the oil pump was just a coincidence..
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 02:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I'm going to guess there was an issue with that install. Nothing to do with pistons/rods. Unless they were clearance wrong, and it was eating up those bearings the whole, and the bolt falling out of the oil pump was just a coincidence..
i'm thinking the same. out of frustration, i'd rather just put the old stuff back in so i know it works.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj
i'm thinking the same. out of frustration, i'd rather just put the old stuff back in so i know it works.
Instead of that, just buy some used forged parts that came out of a working engine
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 03:55 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
Instead of that, just buy some used forged parts that came out of a working engine
i broke the bank on this last build. i don't have the cash for another set of pistons and rods. i'm selling off all my performance/track stuff just to get the car running again. i may just barely make it.

when i put every dime i had into this build, it really needed to work.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:03 PM
  #39  
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At worst, sell your "extra" turbo's and a put a 9 turbo back on it. That should net plenty of cash to get a new rod, find a good 88mm crank, front cover, and get it back together.


Keep in mind, since the motor grenaded, you need to either replace or delete the oil cooler. And extra thoroughly clean the lines or replace them too.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
At worst, sell your "extra" turbo's and a put a 9 turbo back on it. That should net plenty of cash to get a new rod, find a good 88mm crank, front cover, and get it back together.


Keep in mind, since the motor grenaded, you need to either replace or delete the oil cooler. And extra thoroughly clean the lines or replace them too.
already have an oil cooler; reusing the old lines.
already have an oil pump on the way.
everything is sold except for one of the HKSs. i have an '05 Evo VIII turbo left. it's going to suck to have to run such a small turbo, but to buy another turbo, or the IX CHRA that is for sale here, would be more money on top of everything else.

this is assuming i can do everything on my own. i don't have the tools to measure clearance not a lift/cherry picker. the shop i worked at his closed.

as of now i'm looking to drop the car off at FFTEC. it's going to be weird letting someone else work on the car. i've never left a car at a shop before LOL.

i just did the math on replacing stuff. assuming i open up the oil pump and it has damage/metal in it, i'm looking at about $1,000 after all gaskets, fluids, and parts. ouch. plus labor at fftec.

not even to mention the timing is just the worst LOL. i'm going through my garage looking for more stuff to sell haha.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
At worst, sell your "extra" turbo's and a put a 9 turbo back on it. That should net plenty of cash to get a new rod, find a good 88mm crank, front cover, and get it back together.


Keep in mind, since the motor grenaded, you need to either replace or delete the oil cooler. And extra thoroughly clean the lines or replace them too.
+1,000,000

Very sorry to hear about your luck. Hopefully it all works out for you!
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by evo8426
+1,000,000

Very sorry to hear about your luck. Hopefully it all works out for you!
thanks, man. i appreciate that.

i was about to just sell the car but i don't think i can bring myself to.
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by kaj
thanks, man. i appreciate that.

i was about to just sell the car but i don't think i can bring myself to.

PM'd....LOL
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 04:49 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
PM'd....LOL
LOL. shoulda' seen the vultures in my facebook group hahaha
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Old Aug 4, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by kaj
i was about to just sell the car but i don't think i can bring myself to.
Don't do it! This too shall pass
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