Mine stopped smoking with the crank case vent mods.


Is the -10 on the driver side recirculated to the intake pipe?
Are you getting any oil coming out of where the turbine housing meets the CHRA?
Was your car smoking before the turbo swap?
Have you done a leak down and compression test?
Do you have any way to rig up a crank case pressure tester?
Have you called FP and talked to anyone there about whats going on?

 

Yes the driver side goes to the air intake.
Oil isn't coming out of anywhere
Car never smoked before swap
Have done a compression test 140 on all 4 no leak down test
I tried rigging my boost gauge to a modified oil cap and didn't see anything not sure if that's because the gauge isn't sensitive enough to pick up just a few psi
I talked to fp they said it shouldn't be burning oil (well no sh#t), so I sent it in for them to look at got it back with paperwork saying everything is fine

 

Ok, when you're installing the turbo, are you installing the drain pipe with silicone, or with the gaskets? Silicone, if you use to much, squeezes out and restricts flow from the drain and will make the turbo push oil.


Which oil feed line are you using? Does it have the correct restrictor in it?


Compression seems good for an Evo 9, I think. My 8 is at 165ish, but I know the 9's are lower. I would still do a leak down test though.


And yes, a regular boost gauge you're not going to see 1-2-3psi very well on. You need to hook up an electronic sensor and log it electronically so you can review the logs on a computer.


I also found it helps my car if I keep the oil level in the middle of "range" on the dip stick. If I run it full, or a touch over full, I'll occasionally get a puff of smoke on cold start. I don't get that running the oil a little lower.

 

Mine doesnt smoke (yet) but I'm getting oil as well in the intake. Nothing down the downpipe that I can tell.

Is your catch can sealed? That helped mine a bit.

I am thinking of putting a sealed catch can on the PCV side utilizing the stock PCV valve. Perhaps that will help it breathe a bit easier while still providing the same amount of vacuum at idle.

Haven't tried to lower my oil level yet. I will try that next. Has anyone tried using a Kiggly HLA that's using the BB head feed kit FP now sells for the ball bearing MHI units?

 

There is enough idle adjustment in the ECU to lower the idle back down with e 3/8" boomba check valve. My car idles right at 1,000-1,100, which is perfect.

 

You keep running off at the mouth about how you did some test @nd it still leaked that's great except no one believes you because you have no data to back up your claims. Second I take offense to beibg called a liar last guy that did that woke up about 30 minutes later.

 

LOL, threats of violence over the internet. Classic.

 

Yeah, what a fool. SMH.

 

When I bought my turbo I had to wait 3 months for the mhi housing and this guy just called me a liar for that. Hes the only one that's claiming some big design flaw while there are hundreds of these turbos out there making great power. Your the liar and I won't waste anymore breath on you. Don't like the turbos go buy something else were tired of seeing you post the same **** over and over.

 

Now I'm the liar?


Still no reason to threaten someone, especially over the internet...lol

 

Be careful, the last person who called 3gturbo a liar had to go and have a 30min nap apparently. I think he needs to reread the post.

 

i was reading up on your problem man. I had an FP red jb, mine lasted for over 60k on my setup without an issue. I would doublecheck all the parts you installed, if it didn't do it before something could be undertorqued on the bolts. I know before I built mine, I was chasing a faint oil leak, where it would only lose a quart in between oil changes. Double checked everywhere for leaks. replaced what looked to be a leaky valve cover gasket, after replacing and cleaning back there, i found the head was seeping oil on the backside slowly, that you could really tell from looking underneath after a period of time. I don't want to say thats your problem. but if something is only leaking on the exhaust side and the turbo hotside, did you buy a new gasket set when you installed the turbo...?? hope that helps.

 

Problem is he (like me) have already spent $2,500 on FP BB junk, then another $1K on elaborate ventilation set ups (which is not listed as a requirement on any of the documentation from FP) only to have it hemorrhage oil, I know we're most certainly not alone on this issue. Mine was brand new out of the box, only saw gate pressure (~20psi). Leaked oil on 3 different motors, all of them in perfect health. As was mentioned the used prices of the BB FP's are horrifying, lucky if you get more than $500 for one (guys will salvage the exhaust housing) - that in itself shows how big the issue is

He has posted a video showing the thing leaking oil without crankcase pressure, this should substantiate your demand for 'data'

Internet threats are always funny. But if you do decide to make good on your promise, watch your step when you get off that plane - everyone out here uses FP BB turbos as door stops :P

 

This was my turbo of choice but then started doing more research and its true that the BB turbos due leak oil. So now im going with garrett.

 

FYI, FP now makes their own cnc CHRA XONA section for their turbos. I have yet to see anyone report oiling issues with the new design.