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Old Jan 28, 2016, 05:59 AM
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fp red bb

I have a evo 9 and i have installed a fp red bb with the ss housing. The turbo has about 2k miles on it and has burned oil ever since installing it. I have have been waiting for it to stop thinking it may take some time for the rings to seal completely. They never have it only leaks into the down pipe there has never been any oil in the intake pipe, ic pipes, or the intercooler itself. It seems to only burn it at idle or during engine braking. I have opened up the front valve cover vent to a -10 thinking it might be crankcase pressure, but that didn't help. Has anyone been able to solve this problem with their turbo?

Current mods that may affect my issue

272 kelford, 3.5 ets intercooler with short route pipes, speed density
Old Jan 28, 2016, 06:15 AM
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...re-issues.html
Old Jan 28, 2016, 06:24 AM
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Like I said I don't think crankcase pressure is an issue being that I opened up the vent to a -10 and it did nothing
Old Jan 28, 2016, 06:29 AM
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If it's smoking/leaking at idle and deceleration, your PCV isn't flowing enough. I ditched the stock pcv and made it -10 going to a catch can from the PCV fitting (I used the STM fitting) in the valvecover, then from the catch can to the manifold is -6 (welded a -6 fitting to the manifold) and I used a 3/8" Boomba check valve as my PCV valve.


My car still gets a small amount of oil in the intercooler and intake, but it's less than my stock turbo ever leaked lol. It also never smokes, it doesn't push oil out of the BOV, and I never see oil leaking from where the turbine housing and CHRA meet. So I just take the small amount of oil as trade off for the performance characteristics the turbo has to offer as far as response and power.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jan 28, 2016 at 07:00 AM.
Old Jan 28, 2016, 06:57 AM
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+1. I will be running the exact same boomba racing check valve/setup. I replaced it when my pcv was sticking. I was getting some blowby, small valve cover leak, and oil marks on the turbo. I just recently changed, so we'll see when I get tuned in March.
Old Jan 28, 2016, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for the advice I'll have to try that setup, because I don't want to change the turbo
Old Jan 28, 2016, 06:04 PM
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I urge you to not spend to much money trying to "fix" your motors crankcase problem because it's not going to fix the oil leak in your turbo. I've done testing on a FP Black BB that was leaking oil into the intake pipe (which is drawn through the whole engine via the intercooler and intake mani) and crankcase pressure has absolutely nothing to do with the issue. I ran the turbo up to operating speeds on a balancing rig and a substantial amount of oil was leaking from the turbo even though it wasn't even attached to the engine. It's my opinion that the bearing cages are acting as a impeller, causing an increase in pressure inside the turbo, basically the actual design of the turbo makes it act as a pump. FP are well aware of this issue, hence why they withdrew the original BB turbo from sale and only released their BB turbo again when a new design had been implemented.
Old Jan 28, 2016, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireescape
I urge you to not spend to much money trying to "fix" your motors crankcase problem because it's not going to fix the oil leak in your turbo. I've done testing on a FP Black BB that was leaking oil into the intake pipe (which is drawn through the whole engine via the intercooler and intake mani) and crankcase pressure has absolutely nothing to do with the issue. I ran the turbo up to operating speeds on a balancing rig and a substantial amount of oil was leaking from the turbo even though it wasn't even attached to the engine. It's my opinion that the bearing cages are acting as a impeller, causing an increase in pressure inside the turbo, basically the actual design of the turbo makes it act as a pump. FP are well aware of this issue, hence why they withdrew the original BB turbo from sale and only released their BB turbo again when a new design had been implemented.
They stopped selling the bb turbos due to the availabilty of the mhi cartridge and now they have the redesigned ss housing now for sale
Old Jan 28, 2016, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 3gturbo
They stopped selling the bb turbos due to the availabilty of the mhi cartridge and now they have the redesigned ss housing now for sale
This is not true, and I have read, and reposted, different versions of why FP stopped selling the original BB turbos on different threads on EvoM posted by FP themselves, if you are going to lie you need to be consistent and stay on message, FP can't even manage that. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Forced Performance have been nothing better than deceitful with the way they have treated their customers in regards to the oil leak issue with their original BB turbos, and the OP is just another victim of this.

Here's another thread to read if you can be bothered, I've been quite active on this one.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...llbearing.html

Last edited by Fireescape; Jan 28, 2016 at 11:32 PM.
Old Jan 31, 2016, 02:34 PM
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He's right (3gturbo), the FP Red is no longer MHI based. FP can manufacture it completely in-house which insures a better quality product to the customer
Old Feb 1, 2016, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Boost Demon
He's right (3gturbo), the FP Red is no longer MHI based. FP can manufacture it completely in-house which insures a better quality product to the customer
He's talking about the CHRA, which the old version seemed to have leaking issues. The issue was (for a lot of us), the guys in Australia who were reporting problems never gathered data on their crankcase pressure.

However, putting the turbo on a balancer and still seeing oiling issues is a whole other issue...and I hadn't seen that brought up before (not that I catch everything on the forums).



Originally Posted by Fireescape
I urge you to not spend to much money trying to "fix" your motors crankcase problem because it's not going to fix the oil leak in your turbo. I've done testing on a FP Black BB that was leaking oil into the intake pipe (which is drawn through the whole engine via the intercooler and intake mani) and crankcase pressure has absolutely nothing to do with the issue. I ran the turbo up to operating speeds on a balancing rig and a substantial amount of oil was leaking from the turbo even though it wasn't even attached to the engine. It's my opinion that the bearing cages are acting as a impeller, causing an increase in pressure inside the turbo, basically the actual design of the turbo makes it act as a pump. FP are well aware of this issue, hence why they withdrew the original BB turbo from sale and only released their BB turbo again when a new design had been implemented.

Did you ever document this? It would be interesting to see if you made a video.
Old Feb 1, 2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Erik@MIL.SPEC
Did you ever document this? It would be interesting to see if you made a video.
I did, have a look at post #59 on this thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/692684-fp-ballbearing.html
Old Feb 3, 2016, 04:38 AM
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Well I replaced my pcv with a 10AN fitting, installed a ebay catch can (that I modified to add some baffeling, being that it was hollow), and a boomba 3/8 check valve. It idles high now since there is less restriction, but decided to take it for a drive anyway. It stills burns during engine braking, but doesn't seem to at idle maybe that's because it's idleing at 2-2.5k. I like the performance that the turbo gives but can't stand the smoke. I don't think it's my engine because before the turbo install it never burned oil plus compression and plugs look good.
Old Feb 3, 2016, 11:20 AM
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Febs1011, I was missing the point of the thread. I don't have a bb red. Mine is jb. I was experiencing a stuck pcv, creating my problem. Not sure why I chimed in on that, but I apologize if I led you in my direction.
Old Feb 4, 2016, 03:43 AM
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The point of the thread was to find out if anyone that has this problem with the bb(and CHRA center section) found a solution. It's just odd to me that it only happens at a vacuum of 15 or greater and at no other time. I have tried 2 pcv valves and the boomba check valve. At this point I am willing to try just about anything because after spending 4k on this setup I don't have the budget to change and hope I don't get the same problem from a new setup.


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