my trans is currently at shep getting a rebuilt and i want to get a smaller final drive but the 4.11 just doesnt seem to cut it for me with my setup cause im not pushing enough power to find it enjoyable at the track. having some thought about going with this fd because i rip through all my gears so fast plus i rev to 9k.
i road course and drag my evo

built 2.0 with a fp red pushing 550 to 600 whp on e85

 

You can try it. I did not like the 4.11 FD on my 2.0L. I think the stock final drive is perfect.

 

Sorry to bump such an old thread but, how much power were you making at the time? I'm gonna be sitting at around 700whp on built 2.0, and I'm on the fence about a 4.11.

 

TRE has cars running 8's on the 4.31 final drive.

 

I won't be drag racing, and I'm not trying to go beyond 8.5k. I have a stock oil pump, 272s, and I'm not trying to rattle the car apart.

 

Then clearly it'll be fine.

 

What did you not like about your 2.0 4.11 set up.

 

It was a stick engine with 400wtq. The 4.11 final drive made it lose all the snappiness. The car was still fast, but it couldn't even lower slide in 2nd gear. It was boring.

 

Ah I see. Well I feel like a 4.3 would be a waste of money, I'd much rather just ask my tuner to raise the redline a few hundred rpm. When I was at 500whp my turbo came on at around 5.5k and my redline was 8k, so with a 4.59 there was no room for error when shifting AT ALL. So seeing as I'm aiming for 700whp on the same dyno, I dont think I can handle keeping the 4.59. My only concern is the stopping and starting of driving around town with a 4.11 on a 2.0, It was already pretty damn annoying with a 4.59, I cant imagine a 4.11, the 4g63 makes such sad numbers when its not in boost.

 

I personally love my 4.11 final drive. However I am on 2.4, so obviously this helps for pulling the taller drive. The 4.11 is around 10% taller than the oem one, so it is obvious that the tall drive would result in slower acceleration.. I think that a 2.0 does not need the 4.11 for two reasons. 1. you can rev a 2.0 to the moon in contrast with 2.3-2.4 engines, and 2. the 2.0 will not like the 4.11 as the 2.4.

4.31 FD is not a bad option if you are willing to spend the money. Probably is the best of both worlds and especially in your case, it would be ideal. As some other guys noted, a taller final drive helps with the spool, as it puts more load to the engine and because it is taller you will have longer gears. However, many members tested the final drive and seemed that the car got slower. So it is personal preference in what you want your car to do. As I said, i loved the 4.11 because it pulls like a freight train. I heard also (not tested) that the FD calms the torque but it keeps pulling. My 1st gear at 8.5K is around 54mph so you get an idea how long are the gears.

 

Damn very very well said. Thank you for the advice, you're 100% right with all of this.

However, I'm not buying a 4.11, someone actually wants to trade a stock trans for his 4.11 trans. He blew up his 2.3 and recently went back 2.0, but he's only around 400whp now. As a result he'd like to go back to the 4.59. If I was purchasing and having an FD installed freshly from what you are all saying the 4.31 would be the way to go on a 2.0 with a tad bit extra rpm. But since I am not, it's either keep the stock FD at 700whp while reving to max 8.5k (stock oil pump, 272/272s and .82 AR turbine housing) or trade it for the 4.11. Which would you recommend?

 

At 700whp i would definitely recommend the 4.11. At that the power level you have the torque and horspower to move that taller drive without losing much (if any). There was a post somewhere in here which the members stated that at a power level higher than 500-600whp (xxx torque), a final drive would actually help because it calms the torque a bit. So it is better for your driveline parts and also you are transferring the power to the ground better, because it helps by reducing the spin. Although that I did not dyno my car yet, I believe that it is somewhere 550-600whp at the moment. With 245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4, I do not spin, even in 1st gear.

Anyway, there a lot members here who had many builds (2.0, 2.2, 2.4) and with different final drives which will help you as they tried them all and know better the pros and cons. See these posts also:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...periences.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-t-decide.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ive-ratio.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...drive-not.html

 

I wouldn't move to a 4.11 final drive until the car make 600wtq+

Gearing doesn't care about horsepower.

 

I'm learning and you have a good direct way with words. Gearing doesn't care about horse power, why?
Also
Gearing DOES care about torque? Why? I'm guessing shear forces and shredding gears? I do search around but it's fun to ask people.

 

I mean in how the car feels. Torque is what gives it the grunt. Gearing reduces grunt.

You could make 1000whp. But if you do that at 20,000rpm, it's only 270wtq and the car needs shorter gearing.

The extreme example is to help make it more obvious. HP is what makes the trap speed. How much torque you have dictates gearing.