EvO_essence

So I have the opportunity to rebuild my engine anyway i want. It spun a rod bearing so its getting everything swapped out of the block. I was thinking of just going all forged everything in the 63 block but now am really considering the 64block with 63 head. My main goal is to get 450 reliable horsepower with a high revving machine and the ability to do road rallies when desired. I havent had the car long so id really like some feedback from more experienced owners.

I am open to ideas but am purchasing something soon to get it back on the road. Motor will be out this weekend.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

What fuel and turbo do you plan to use to make your power goal?

EvO_essence

Pump gas until e85 comes around. Tempted to go direct port water/meth. And looking into turbos still. Thinking i like the gt35r

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you have 93 octane in your area, and FP green or Red will make 400-450whp range, or a 30r size turbo like a gtx3076r or similar. For your power goals, a 64 block isn't needed. It would be a lot simpler to just put a stroker crank in your 4g63 block. A 94mm crank with 153mm rods will always get my vote.

EvO_essence

Yes ive got 93. I want something that will be upgrade ready when i decide to add more hp. If i stick with the 63 block is it even worth stroking?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yes. English racing makes 1100whp out of the 4g63 with a 94mm crank, 153mm rods, and the appropriate pistons, and it revs to 9500ish. The potential is there with the right combination (head, cams, turbo).

EvO_essence

Does that setup use regular height pistons? or do they need to be shortened?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The compression height is the same as a piston for 100mm crank with 150mm rod in a 4g63 block.

EvO_essence

And the reliability doesnt go out the window with that setup? I say reliability in terms of pushing it if needed not crazy long term.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

No, the rod ratio is pretty good, so you don't get the bad side loading like you do with a 2.3 (100mm stroke) 4g63, so rod bearings and pistons last longer. The 94mm crank also doesn't have harmonics as bad as the 100mm. And piston speeds are lower for a given rpm.


Keep in mind, if you order 4g63 100mm stoker pistons, your compression ratio will be about .75 lower than advertised. So if you get 10.5:1 compression pistons, you'll end up in the neighborhood of 9.75:1 due to the shorter stroke. This can be resolved with custom pistons if it's a concern.

Jonno99

^^^
this

EvO_essence

Hmm. I like that idea then. I definitely appreciate the info. Ive thrown a ton of money at it and only put a couple hundred miles on it so i want it to be perfect this time. The whole thing only has 35k on it

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you were planning on paying someone to build a motor for you, I would highly suggest getting one from English Racing. They can send you a ready to go 2.2SLR (94mm crank, 153mm rods) short block built to their specs and read for you put the head and accessories on. The hard/skilled labor part of installing the internals and setting clearances will be done for you.

EvO_essence

I planned on building it myself, ive built non performance engines before but his will be a first

Teal2nnr

iTrader: (7)

Its already been said, but i second going with an ER motor. If my built 2.0 goes im going with a 2.2 ER motor.