New build . No compression #2-4 cylinder
Oct 10, 2016, 09:35 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
New build . No compression #2-4 cylinder
ok guys I just got done building and assembling my new motor . When I first try to start it . It did nothing but just crank . But then realize the immobilzer was wrong , I thought that was it . So we got it started but it won't rev over 1k rpm and dyes with out gas , so I ran a compression test on it cylinder 1 is 130 and 2 is 0 and 3 is 30 and 4 is 0 . Can anyone tell me what's wrong 
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Paulevo9 (Oct 11, 2016)
Oct 11, 2016, 03:40 AM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Head has map valves with Brian crow era spring and retainers and no tick lifters but I reuse it from last set up . I bleed it and installed it but didn't install my cams until about a week while the lifters were sitting in my head Z also the was machines and was ported . You think it was the lifters ,
Oct 11, 2016, 05:21 AM
#4
Is physicial timing 100% correct ? If it's a mivec car is the cam hear pumped up.
Do a leak down test. If the air is coming out the intake or exhaust ports then the valves are staying open. If the cylinder head has a few valve jobs and the shop didn't check the valve seat location the valves can stay open if the lifter is bottomed out.
Gsc lifters are slightly longer then stock , so if you may want to try stock ones to give some extra clearance.
If that's not enough the valve will have to be cut. Too much cutting isn't ideal for valve train geometry so it needs to be checked by a shop.
You can also have the head measured and bench tested .
if the head is fine you will need to look at the short block.
Do a leak down test. If the air is coming out the intake or exhaust ports then the valves are staying open. If the cylinder head has a few valve jobs and the shop didn't check the valve seat location the valves can stay open if the lifter is bottomed out.
Gsc lifters are slightly longer then stock , so if you may want to try stock ones to give some extra clearance.
If that's not enough the valve will have to be cut. Too much cutting isn't ideal for valve train geometry so it needs to be checked by a shop.
You can also have the head measured and bench tested .
if the head is fine you will need to look at the short block.
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Paulevo9 (Oct 11, 2016)
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Paulevo9 (Oct 11, 2016)
Oct 11, 2016, 10:45 AM
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Before swapping any parts, I would do a leak down test to see what is leaking...
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Paulevo9 (Oct 11, 2016)
Oct 11, 2016, 04:46 PM
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone . I would of never thought of it being the lifters what's so ever . I will check timing and do a leak down test . If lifters are the cause and if I do have a leak anywhere . Can the lifters being to long be the cause .
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Oct 11, 2016, 04:47 PM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
My cam gear for the mivec I cranked if millpns of time to get it primed buy for some reason it is still clicking in godly ugly . But my car doesn't stay idle long enough for me to even figure out what it is .
Is physicial timing 100% correct ? If it's a mivec car is the cam hear pumped up.
Do a leak down test. If the air is coming out the intake or exhaust ports then the valves are staying open. If the cylinder head has a few valve jobs and the shop didn't check the valve seat location the valves can stay open if the lifter is bottomed out.
Gsc lifters are slightly longer then stock , so if you may want to try stock ones to give some extra clearance.
If that's not enough the valve will have to be cut. Too much cutting isn't ideal for valve train geometry so it needs to be checked by a shop.
You can also have the head measured and bench tested .
if the head is fine you will need to look at the short block.
Do a leak down test. If the air is coming out the intake or exhaust ports then the valves are staying open. If the cylinder head has a few valve jobs and the shop didn't check the valve seat location the valves can stay open if the lifter is bottomed out.
Gsc lifters are slightly longer then stock , so if you may want to try stock ones to give some extra clearance.
If that's not enough the valve will have to be cut. Too much cutting isn't ideal for valve train geometry so it needs to be checked by a shop.
You can also have the head measured and bench tested .
if the head is fine you will need to look at the short block.
Oct 13, 2016, 08:21 AM
#10
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Did you do a leak down test?
Oct 14, 2016, 07:50 AM
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Yes I just did yesterday cylinder one leaking from Pistons and valves both intake and exhaust and all other cylinder are from both valves intake and exhaust . Cylinder one is scaring me since it larking though crank case and not the others
Oct 14, 2016, 09:50 AM
#12
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Ok. Start by going to OEM lifters. If you lose the leak in the valves, then you can get the rings seated and redo the leak down test. Rings that haven't been broken-in aren't going to be very well seated in the cylinder, and could leak a decent amount.
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Paulevo9 (Oct 15, 2016)
Oct 15, 2016, 09:22 AM
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ok now I'm on the hunt for oem lifters . Since I can't seem to find mine
Oct 15, 2016, 09:24 AM
#14
Newbie
Thread Starter
You think there was anyways my valves could of hit my Pistons ?
Oct 15, 2016, 10:17 AM
#15
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Not if the motor is timed right. And even if it's a tooth or two off, they don't usually make contact.