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Valve spring install question *searched*

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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 01:34 PM
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Valve spring install question *searched*

I'm buying my parts in steps, cams, valve spring retainers for the gsc s2's, timing belt water pump etc.

I'd like to take the head off inspect it and make sure is straight and true, will be installing the cams and valve springs and retainers myself with the head off, but one of my buddies mentioned I should just have a machine shop install them because you'd like to make sure the install height of the springs is correct so the valve will be seated with the correct pressure, and the valve actually seated correctly.

I'm thinking it will be fine once installed can always spray some brake cleaner in the intake and exhaust ports to have an idea it's seated correctly.

Any ideas on this..

Car only has 46k on it.


Last edited by Exsubie22; Dec 21, 2016 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Info
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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Depends on how precise you want to be. People have gotten away with DIY jobs all over the place, but if you want things to be exact I would listen to your friend and take it to the machine shop. Spraying brake cleaner in the intake and exhaust ports isn't going to tell you if each valve spring has the same seat pressure. A good machine shop can adjust the valve spring seat using shims to allow for precise spring pressure across all 16 valves.

That being said, a valve job isn't necessary a requirement. If you're sticking with standard size valves and just want to get it done, i'd probably do it myself. If you are getting +1mm valves, i'd take it to the shop so that they can port your cylinder head for that valve.

-pal215
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 05:23 AM
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take it to machine shop, they will not charge you arm and leg for doing job like that, and they will inspect your head too , also while apart I sugest to do complete 5 angle valve job
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 07:08 AM
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I wouldn't bother taking the head off. You're just spending extra time and money. Get the in car valve spring compressor tool and just change the springs with the head still on.
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 10:52 AM
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Has the head ever been separated from the block in life ?
Has the engine overheated in life ?
Popped a timing belt ?
If not then good, if so then not good..
I believe everybody here WILL give you good advice, you just gotta pick your poison !!
Me I have spent a lot of years doing things the wrong way, now I only do things the right way, be very patient while building a car, things can go wrong and get expensive VERY QUICK..
SO my advice to you is do it right the first time, and get rid of the balance shafts if this is a race car, keep them if DD.
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Just looking at your recipe, sounds like your going to try to rev to MARS
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by lonestarr20
Just looking at your recipe, sounds like your going to try to rev to MARS
Plan on eventually doing a 2.4 so I won't be Reving to the moon. Not understanding that be taking off the head is the wrong way I want to install arps etc.
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 10:24 AM
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Do the head studs one at a time in the order of the torque sequence. No need to do all the work you're talking about. This isn't an old school small block Chevy where you're installing "universal" parts so you have to make sure installed heights and valvetrain geometry is correct. Just trying to save you time and money.

The head isn't going to warped, and you def don't need a valve job at only 43k miles.
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 12:53 PM
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He is telling you right, one by one method works, removing the head also works !
Less downtime with 1×1 method.
Plot your course and follow it, it'll be ok..
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Do the head studs one at a time in the order of the torque sequence. No need to do all the work you're talking about. This isn't an old school small block Chevy where you're installing "universal" parts so you have to make sure installed heights and valvetrain geometry is correct. Just trying to save you time and money.

The head isn't going to warped, and you def don't need a valve job at only 43k miles.
So it wouldn't need to go to a machine shop for that? To make sure all the valve springs are within spec. I didn't think so. So I guess I will try the head studs one at a time. I do need to do the timing belt and water pump also. Just figured it would be easier to do on the bench.

Thanks man you've been helpful.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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You dont really need the machine shop to do it. In fact you can do it without removing the head. I did my springs and headstuds same day with cylinder head on.

30 psi and 2 years later no leaks no issues.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 07:01 AM
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I have a valve spring tool, am I now going to have to buy another one to use with the head still on?
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 07:59 AM
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You'll need this one:

http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubi...ng-compressor/
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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how many miles on your car? my motor supposedly had about 70k on it and the valve seats were destroyed. it needed a valve job badly. when i had the valve job done the machine shop insisted they assemble the head so they could pressure test it to ensure the valves and seats mated correctly. normally i dont my own head assembly but i let them do it for free.
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 11:16 AM
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If the valve seats were damaged surely he would havena cylinder misfire.
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