Valve seals or turbo seals? White smoke & oil burn smell
#91
So here we are a little over a month later. My car is still smoking pretty bad until it's fully warm. Then goes away. I'm starting to think rings. The fact that when it is smoking and the low compression numbers?
I was a little under a quart low on oil when I changed it after ~4K miles. I sent the oil to have it analazyed and they said there's no coolant in the oil. However there is excess aluminum, chrome, and iron than they see in the average 4G63.
All of those factors are leading me to believe rings.
Turbo is good, has no shaft play, haven't found any oil in downpipe, intercooler pipes..
And still running normal other than the smoke.
I was a little under a quart low on oil when I changed it after ~4K miles. I sent the oil to have it analazyed and they said there's no coolant in the oil. However there is excess aluminum, chrome, and iron than they see in the average 4G63.
All of those factors are leading me to believe rings.
Turbo is good, has no shaft play, haven't found any oil in downpipe, intercooler pipes..
And still running normal other than the smoke.
#92
Account Disabled
Still waiting for those spark plug pics?
Still no fuel pressure gauge either?
I guess that if you're a guru at tuning, you don't need to monitor fuel pressure?
But I wouldn't even think about it without one.
Everyone's a tuner?
Still no fuel pressure gauge either?
I guess that if you're a guru at tuning, you don't need to monitor fuel pressure?
But I wouldn't even think about it without one.
Everyone's a tuner?
Last edited by RightSaid fred; Jul 21, 2017 at 05:57 AM.
#93
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
OP, did you address crank case pressure?
#94
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
If the engine is good shape , and the crankcase is vented and recirculated correctly then why don't you try to restrict the turbo some. For testing, its not going to hurt anything.
The newer Xona ship with .020 restrictors IIRC and your CHRA might need an update to run the .020. You may want to send it to FP for inspection and ask about the .020.
Are you running a good 5-40 oil or molasses? The 4g63 makes ALOT of oil pressure and a thick oil tends to **** some turbo's on warm up. I had a few issues on my stock engine when I ran 20-50 for road course days. No issues on 5-40.
The newer Xona ship with .020 restrictors IIRC and your CHRA might need an update to run the .020. You may want to send it to FP for inspection and ask about the .020.
Are you running a good 5-40 oil or molasses? The 4g63 makes ALOT of oil pressure and a thick oil tends to **** some turbo's on warm up. I had a few issues on my stock engine when I ran 20-50 for road course days. No issues on 5-40.
Last edited by Abacus; Jul 21, 2017 at 02:03 PM.
#95
If the engine is good shape , and the crankcase is vented and recirculated correctly then why don't you try to restrict the turbo some. For testing, its not going to hurt anything.
The newer Xona ship with .020 restrictors IIRC and your CHRA might need an update to run the .020. You may want to send it to FP for inspection and ask about the .020.
Are you running a good 5-40 oil or molasses? The 4g63 makes ALOT of oil pressure and a thick oil tends to **** some turbo's on warm up. I had a few issues on my stock engine when I ran 20-50 for road course days. No issues on 5-40.
The newer Xona ship with .020 restrictors IIRC and your CHRA might need an update to run the .020. You may want to send it to FP for inspection and ask about the .020.
Are you running a good 5-40 oil or molasses? The 4g63 makes ALOT of oil pressure and a thick oil tends to **** some turbo's on warm up. I had a few issues on my stock engine when I ran 20-50 for road course days. No issues on 5-40.
#97
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
My tuner is adamant that it is not an issue of crankcase pressure. I haven't got around to doing it yet. The press in 6an fittings won't do anything in terms of reducing pressure right? Only the drill/tap 10an solution will work?
I'm running a 5w20 Mobil 1. Same thing I've been running for the past 2 1/2 years (14k miles)
I'm running a 5w20 Mobil 1. Same thing I've been running for the past 2 1/2 years (14k miles)
Make sure the turbo drain is clean.
Acceptable leakdown.
Smooth idle
If you take the oil cap off with the engine at idle cold/hot is it a large amount of air coming out? May want to compare it to another stock engine car.
I'd highly recommend going to a 40 weight oil of your choice. You are making much more HP then stock and its going to be better for the bearing life.
If you've crossed everything on the list off you can try the other two things I mentioned. Its a process of elimination after the basics are covered.
#98
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
My tuner is adamant that it is not an issue of crankcase pressure. I haven't got around to doing it yet. The press in 6an fittings won't do anything in terms of reducing pressure right? Only the drill/tap 10an solution will work?
I'm running a 5w20 Mobil 1. Same thing I've been running for the past 2 1/2 years (14k miles)
I'm running a 5w20 Mobil 1. Same thing I've been running for the past 2 1/2 years (14k miles)
The 4g63 makes a lot of crank case pressure when cold. Before I addressed it, my red smoked terribly on cold start, and less when warm. With proper ventilation, it doesn't smoke during cold start or normal driving anymore. Only smokes on track days in very specific situations.
#100
Account Disabled
Yes it does.
Unregulated fuel pressure causes a wandering / drifting tune.
That in turn causes knock.
Knock breaks pistons.
Broken pistons cause excessive crankcase pressure and smoke.
It's simple.
All it takes is time.
#101
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Sorry nothing to contribute, this is just one of many threads that I'm following. I'm losing about a quart every 200-300 miles, sometimes more, sometimes less. Daily driving, track driving, no difference.
Radium PCV catch can, empty
-10 fitting on driver's side, VTA
CBRD BBK 3B
120/105/115/115 compression numbers, no difference with added oil
20w-50
No oil leaks
No smoke
What the hell
Radium PCV catch can, empty
-10 fitting on driver's side, VTA
CBRD BBK 3B
120/105/115/115 compression numbers, no difference with added oil
20w-50
No oil leaks
No smoke
What the hell
Last edited by Name User; Jul 21, 2017 at 06:15 PM.
#104
Evolved Member
Sorry nothing to contribute, this is just one of many threads that I'm following. I'm losing about a quart every 200-300 miles, sometimes more, sometimes less. Daily driving, track driving, no difference.
Radium PCV catch can, empty
-10 fitting on driver's side, VTA
CBRD BBK 3B
120/105/115/115 compression numbers, no difference with added oil
20w-50
No oil leaks
No smoke
What the hell
Radium PCV catch can, empty
-10 fitting on driver's side, VTA
CBRD BBK 3B
120/105/115/115 compression numbers, no difference with added oil
20w-50
No oil leaks
No smoke
What the hell
#105
Account Disabled
It's a "normal" sequence of events.
If you don't understand what goes on, you shouldn't be trying to tune cars or charge for your services.
That's why it's known as "creeping death".
Things just go from bad to worse over time.
Young inexperienced people have no experience of time.