RPM rises 400 when doing 3 to 4 shift [MERGE]
Couldn't somebody just try to put on an extra supporting spring on to the throttle just to make sure that it’s strong enough to close the throttle instantly when you let go of the accelerator? I would do this right away if my car wasn’t garaged for the winter and we had snow all over the place. It should be a quick thing to do and then it could be either ruled out or verified that it could be an issue with the stock spring loosing tension during time and not being able to close the throttle fast enough under high boost situations. Just make sure that that extra spring makes a real difference in the force that close the throttle, it’s better to have it really strong for this test even if pushing the accelerator would be a lot harder than normal so it will make a good test.
Strange thing in my case was that the car just suddenly started doing this whit out any recent modification. When I got my car back from the tuning it didn’t do this and then just all of a sudden it started?
I’m not sure that all that is described on here is the same problem but definitely there is a problem because it seam to pop up similar observations on several forums around the world.
Strange thing in my case was that the car just suddenly started doing this whit out any recent modification. When I got my car back from the tuning it didn’t do this and then just all of a sudden it started?
I’m not sure that all that is described on here is the same problem but definitely there is a problem because it seam to pop up similar observations on several forums around the world.
I'd like to elaborate on that, but can't. Here's the discussion that's been going on Down Under:
http://www.dotdxf.com/evolutionoz/vi...?t=290&start=0
http://www.dotdxf.com/evolutionoz/vi...?t=290&start=0
Originally Posted by titaniumkingpin
just to update, i got a new throw out bearing and new clutch a week ago. still have the same problem.
i had turbotrix flash me and i still have the same problem.
i have a feeling it has something to do with boost because it only happens when boosting.
also, when i shift at over 6000rpm i don't get the problem.
i think im pretty close to giving up. someone please help.
i had turbotrix flash me and i still have the same problem.
i have a feeling it has something to do with boost because it only happens when boosting.
also, when i shift at over 6000rpm i don't get the problem.
i think im pretty close to giving up. someone please help.
Yeah I just read that entire thread from Australia. It definitely sounds like it could be a problem with the ECU or idle adjustment screw. If it was the ECU....and could narrow down the causes...i'm about positive that one of our big tuners on here could figure out a way to flash it out of the system. I'm thinking about taking the upper pipe to the intake manifold off to see if there is any damage or big gap in the throttle plate. Here is something that one of the tuners in Australia suggested to their guys.
"I have been speaking with Adrian at Haltech today and he has suggested the following as something to try, if anyone's interested.
1. Get your engine up to temperature
2. With engine idling and running, disconnect the idle control valve.
3. Take it for drive & see if problem is solved.
4. Reconnect idle control valve.
NOTE: Doing this may result in you getting the 'engine check' light on the dash. To cancel this, disconnect your ecu for about 6 hours (overnight) and in the morning it will be gone.
Obviously, this is not a permanent fix, but it may lead us down the right path to a permanent fix if it solves the problem temporarily. "
Who knows...maybe this would help us figure out if the ECU was causing it. Let me know if anyone gives it a show...i'm not entirely sure where it is right off hand.
"I have been speaking with Adrian at Haltech today and he has suggested the following as something to try, if anyone's interested.
1. Get your engine up to temperature
2. With engine idling and running, disconnect the idle control valve.
3. Take it for drive & see if problem is solved.
4. Reconnect idle control valve.
NOTE: Doing this may result in you getting the 'engine check' light on the dash. To cancel this, disconnect your ecu for about 6 hours (overnight) and in the morning it will be gone.
Obviously, this is not a permanent fix, but it may lead us down the right path to a permanent fix if it solves the problem temporarily. "
Who knows...maybe this would help us figure out if the ECU was causing it. Let me know if anyone gives it a show...i'm not entirely sure where it is right off hand.
Last edited by KillaSweep; Dec 22, 2004 at 06:52 PM.
I'm getting the same thing...bone stock 05 MR...never had it on my 03 GSR with 8K miles on it...it's not only frustating because I sound like a tool shifting, but I don't like the feeling of "self-acceleration" when I throw it into 3rd, let off the throttle, and the car keeps going like like I'm still on the gas
Originally Posted by GEARS
Could it be possible that Mitsubishi is letting the rpms hang to either to reduce pumping loses or improve emissions?




