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RPM rises 400 when doing 3 to 4 shift [MERGE]

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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 05:49 PM
  #151  
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From: Indiana
likewise
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 12:33 AM
  #152  
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Couldn't somebody just try to put on an extra supporting spring on to the throttle just to make sure that it’s strong enough to close the throttle instantly when you let go of the accelerator? I would do this right away if my car wasn’t garaged for the winter and we had snow all over the place. It should be a quick thing to do and then it could be either ruled out or verified that it could be an issue with the stock spring loosing tension during time and not being able to close the throttle fast enough under high boost situations. Just make sure that that extra spring makes a real difference in the force that close the throttle, it’s better to have it really strong for this test even if pushing the accelerator would be a lot harder than normal so it will make a good test.

Strange thing in my case was that the car just suddenly started doing this whit out any recent modification. When I got my car back from the tuning it didn’t do this and then just all of a sudden it started?

I’m not sure that all that is described on here is the same problem but definitely there is a problem because it seam to pop up similar observations on several forums around the world.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 01:38 AM
  #153  
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Still nobody that tried this simple thing with an extra spring?
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 06:57 AM
  #154  
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Its not related to the spring. its something else..
trying to figure it out.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 07:04 AM
  #155  
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Borren,

Have you tried a supplemental spring? I would do it myself, but my car is in storage for the winter.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 07:15 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by tsi90awd
Borren,

Have you tried a supplemental spring? I would do it myself, but my car is in storage for the winter.
yeah it feelth like the pedal was not moving

but its not the problem..
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 11:59 AM
  #157  
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anyone ask the dealership what the problem is?
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 07:56 PM
  #158  
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According to MMAL, it's in the ecu, so it's working out how to get around that.
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 10:36 PM
  #159  
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can you elaborate on that at all? Like what kind of tuning on the ECU would cause the problem..or perhaps fix it?
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 10:45 PM
  #160  
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I'd like to elaborate on that, but can't. Here's the discussion that's been going on Down Under:

http://www.dotdxf.com/evolutionoz/vi...?t=290&start=0
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 09:17 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by titaniumkingpin
just to update, i got a new throw out bearing and new clutch a week ago. still have the same problem.
i had turbotrix flash me and i still have the same problem.
i have a feeling it has something to do with boost because it only happens when boosting.
also, when i shift at over 6000rpm i don't get the problem.
i think im pretty close to giving up. someone please help.
Well I don't know how viable an option this would be for you or anybody that has this problem, but what about swapping out your ECU for someone's that does not have the problem.. I don't know if you have fellow Evo'ers in your area, but that could pretty much eliminate the ECU from the list of things. Even though you have had your ECU "flashed", there might be something that the ECU is doing as an anomily only every once in awhile, that could not be picked up by the Tuner.. You might want to start a new post, and see if anyone is willing to do the ecu swap for you..
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 11:05 AM
  #162  
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Yeah I just read that entire thread from Australia. It definitely sounds like it could be a problem with the ECU or idle adjustment screw. If it was the ECU....and could narrow down the causes...i'm about positive that one of our big tuners on here could figure out a way to flash it out of the system. I'm thinking about taking the upper pipe to the intake manifold off to see if there is any damage or big gap in the throttle plate. Here is something that one of the tuners in Australia suggested to their guys.

"I have been speaking with Adrian at Haltech today and he has suggested the following as something to try, if anyone's interested.

1. Get your engine up to temperature
2. With engine idling and running, disconnect the idle control valve.
3. Take it for drive & see if problem is solved.
4. Reconnect idle control valve.

NOTE: Doing this may result in you getting the 'engine check' light on the dash. To cancel this, disconnect your ecu for about 6 hours (overnight) and in the morning it will be gone.

Obviously, this is not a permanent fix, but it may lead us down the right path to a permanent fix if it solves the problem temporarily. "


Who knows...maybe this would help us figure out if the ECU was causing it. Let me know if anyone gives it a show...i'm not entirely sure where it is right off hand.

Last edited by KillaSweep; Dec 22, 2004 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 07:50 PM
  #163  
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I'm getting the same thing...bone stock 05 MR...never had it on my 03 GSR with 8K miles on it...it's not only frustating because I sound like a tool shifting, but I don't like the feeling of "self-acceleration" when I throw it into 3rd, let off the throttle, and the car keeps going like like I'm still on the gas
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 03:02 PM
  #164  
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Lightbulb

Could it be possible that Mitsubishi is letting the rpms hang to either to reduce pumping loses or improve emissions?
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 12:38 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by GEARS
Could it be possible that Mitsubishi is letting the rpms hang to either to reduce pumping loses or improve emissions?
i doubt it, my car did not do this last year, around this time i just thought of that.
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