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If you are able to get that piece let me know, I'll take one. I've got something I received from ebay which will work, but hard to put much faith into ebay china parts.
this is what Im doing. Im using Copper Nickel 5/16 tubing. I took out EVAP line, and used it as a template to make my own. Pictures were taken months ago, haven't done much since then.
The Nicop line is soooo much easier to work with than the standard coated steel lines. I did the majority of my line using the standard line but realized it was borderline impossible to make one continuous line by the time I got to the rear. So when I got to the back section by the rear subframe I ended up using a piece of the Nicop and OMG wish I did the whole thing in that stuff as youre able to make tight bends with your hands.
Keep up the good work! Maybe one day Ill snap some pictures of how my lines turned out to give some examples of what can be done.
I have nicop and a challenge I've found is that because it comes in rolls, its hard to straighten it perfectly and end up with poor double flares on the ends. Any of you guys use a tubing straightener?
Just FYI, you don't need PTFE hose. PTFE hose is for fue line that is run inside the cabin and you don't the smell of fuel permeating the hose. Save a few bucks and just run standard braided AN line. Either stainless or the fiber braided stuff.
From what I've read the ACD pump operates at upto 200psi but I just read that somewhere on the internet.
From the spec sheet for my PTFE hose, its max operating pressure is 250psi.
Not sure non PTFE can operate at that high a pressure.
I have nicop and a challenge I've found is that because it comes in rolls, its hard to straighten it perfectly and end up with poor double flares on the ends. Any of you guys use a tubing straightener?
I didn't use a straightener but did spend a while doing what I could to make it straight. My method was to unroll it and then basically roll it on the ground in the same way that you would roll a rolling pin if that makes sense.
Im not sure why the tubing not being straight was causing your flares to end up poor. What are you using to cut the tubing? Unless its cut right at 90 its not going to produce a good flare. I will say the Nicop was way easier to flare as well relative to the standard steel line.
Also, what are you using for a flare tool? The standard flare kits they sell at HF/ AZ suck. Like seriously dont work well at all. Eastwood makes a nice kit and so does Mastercool I wanna say is the name but both of those are $$$. I ended up borrowing a buddies flare tool kit that is the same basic style as the other ones but it was one off a tool truck and sure enough the results were way better.
My only other advice is when you go to do a flare dont forget to slip on the fitting prior. Ask me how I know Same goes for soldering wires. Heat shrink first then solder!
I just found that the minor "unstraightness" of the tube was causing it to sit crooked in the flaring tool but that was just straightened by hand. I'll have to try that "rolling pin" method you mentioned. I've got 2 different Ridgid tools, one for double flares and the other for 37degree flares. I tried and failed with the cheap versions of flaring tools from harbor freight... lesson learned.
Lol yeah Im not sure there is any science to support my rolling pin method but seemed to work well in my case. I ran a bunch of air lines in my garage using aluminum encased pex which came in a spool and had the same challenge initially as well. They do make straighteners and if you go on YT people have made some with like skateboard wheels pressing down as you roll it through it, so Im sure a similar concept could be applied to these lines.
I forgot Ridgid makes some flaring tools that supposedly work well too. My HD didnt have any in stock and I ended up just asking my buddy and sure enough he saved the day with his. But make sure when you cut the line you do it with a tubing cutter so it makes a nice crisp and clean cut.
Regular old push lok hose and fittings are rated for 225 or 250psi IIRC with proper clamps. AN race hose is rated higher. Russel ProClassic for example is 350psi. and only ~$5.50/ft from summit.
Same goes for soldering wires. Heat shrink first then solder!
