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Evo 8/9 Engine Failures

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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 12:24 PM
  #16  
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I want to build one just so I can say I built a high hp motor. But I don't want a $5k paperweight at the end.
I do like the challenge (stupid ego/pride).

Originally Posted by kaj
If he has the time and money to blow up engines, that's his prerogative. Just trying to give a common-sense heads up. Most of us prefer to not swap engines on a regular basis.
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj
Stock motor developed bad rings at 130k so had low compression in cyl 3. Who knows how the original owner took care of the car.
Going back to your original motor, I'm surprised your #3 failed before #4. Hmmm.

Are rod/bearing failures more common on #4 with pins and rings on any cylinder?
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 04:44 AM
  #18  
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From: florduh
motors will tend to have cylinders more prone to failure, usually due to air or fuel distribution differences, but anything can happen to cause a different one to fail.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
motors will tend to have cylinders more prone to failure, usually due to air or fuel distribution differences, but anything can happen to cause a different one to fail.
This is actually a good thing. I've read the #4 seems to be a favorite cylinder for failures, but random cylinder failures just tells me it isn't a design failure.

Now I have to figure out when is a good time for me to hone #4 runner to same smoothness as rest.

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jun 30, 2017 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 12:41 PM
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Theoretically, cyl 4 fails first due to fuel and air mixture, as mentioned above. That was the first to go when we ran Hondas, especially when people would delete that plastic thingy at the end of the fuel rail (it's there to help balance pressure inside the rail).
With our cars, I thought it was 3, but I could be wrong. It's been a while since I read up on it. Weird things go on inside the fuel rail and intake manifold.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 04:32 PM
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No 4 always runs leanest under load due to being closest to the throttle body.
Being leanest, it detonates first and most when it all goes wrong.

Same with pretty much all EFI wngines.

You KNOW this when you pull the sparkplugs after a WOT run.


It's got nothing to do with the fuel.
You can reverse the direction of flow in the rail and it's still the same.


Same thing with a 6G72, it's no 6 that always breaks first........closest to the throttle.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by kaj
With our cars, I thought it was 3, but I could be wrong. It's been a while since I read up on it. Weird things go on inside the fuel rail and intake manifold.
My tuner agrees that it's cylinder #3. I was surprised to hear. They had a test manifold with sensors on each runner and saw that #3 ran leanest. They didn't tell me what their theory is on this.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 11:17 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
My tuner agrees that it's cylinder #3. I was surprised to hear. They had a test manifold with sensors on each runner and saw that #3 ran leanest. They didn't tell me what their theory is on this.
I think of the "pig rich" factory tune that every tuner wanted to fix. Maybe there was a reason.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
My tuner agrees that it's cylinder #3. I was surprised to hear. They had a test manifold with sensors on each runner and saw that #3 ran leanest. They didn't tell me what their theory is on this.
I would assume it's the intake manifold design.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 05:11 PM
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The 4G63 is inherently capable of high power. The three things that kill these motors are 1) lack of sufficient fuel, 2) lack of sufficient oil, 3) Too much ignition timing. There are a number of ways for the first two conditions to occur. Here are a few that quickly come to mind:

Lack of fuel
- Insufficient capacity fuel system
- ****ty fuel system setup
- Not taking care of injectors
- Bad tune

Lack of oil
- Oil pan not up to the job
- Not paying attention to oil level

Too much timing obviously means a crappy tune.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mrfred
The 4G63 is inherently capable of high power. The three things that kill these motors are 1) lack of sufficient fuel, 2) lack of sufficient oil, 3) Too much ignition timing. There are a number of ways for the first two conditions to occur. Here are a few that quickly come to mind:

Lack of fuel
- Insufficient capacity fuel system
- ****ty fuel system setup
- Not taking care of injectors
- Bad tune

Lack of oil
- Oil pan not up to the job
- Not paying attention to oil level

Too much timing obviously means a crappy tune.
Maychailo,
If all of the above conditions are fulfilled, will the engine still be reliable ? or the age and metal fatigue factor would still be there ?
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 10:34 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mines5
Maychailo,
If all of the above conditions are fulfilled, will the engine still be reliable ? or the age and metal fatigue factor would still be there ?
Like he said: the engines do great unless one of those problems arises.

The conversation before was in relation to our cylinder 3 being less efficient than others, which needs to be taken into consideration during tuning.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mines5
Maychailo,
If all of the above conditions are fulfilled, will the engine still be reliable ? or the age and metal fatigue factor would still be there ?
Are you talking about rebuilding a motor? Evo 4G63 blocks, heads, and cranks are very long lasting. Just make sure you are starting with ones that haven't been previously damaged in some way. Most other major internals don't get reused.
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 10:17 PM
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What if I install pistons, rings, pins, rods, and bearings capable of 1000 hp? Will the limit future damage to valves (assuming adequate oil at all times, of course)?
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
I wonder if any built engine lasted anywhere near the stock motors. Maybe the higher power made with built motors shortens the engine life? Anyone kept a built motor power at same power level?
I saw on Facebook CBRD had an engine in his shop that they built that has close to or over 100k miles.

I had 175,000 miles on my engine before I pulled it to get it turned into a stoker. Car ran ok, but compression was 120 on two cylinders. Car has been down 3 years for multiple reasons.

You need to find a shop that can do it right. English Racing is where I am finally sending my car (after the long wait) to get them to put it together. Both tuning and assembly.


Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
What if I install pistons, rings, pins, rods, and bearings capable of 1000 hp? Will the limit future damage to valves (assuming adequate oil at all times, of course)?
Based on observation and others experiences, getting above 150whp per cylinder is where things stop being reliable (relatively).

If I wanted 1000whp, I'd opt for an engine with more cylinders. It's why I decided 600whp was about where I wanted to keep things. There may be guys making 700 and 800 whp that don't have issues, but I'm not sure that's the norm on a 4-banger.

Last edited by Erik@MIL.SPEC; Jul 2, 2017 at 10:37 PM.
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