Evo__Lee

Which one has been the most successful for you High HP & Tq Builds?
Post your experiences please.. I currently have OEM crank that needs to be polished etc.. but wont bother to put it in if Eagle is stronger and will last long... refreshing the motor and current rev max is 8600

4G63Rules

iTrader: (10)

Of course the Eagle crank is going to be stronger than a stock crank, but the stock crank can handle pretty much whatever you want to throw at it. If the crank needs to be polished, make sure nothing else is wrong with it.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Stock 100mm crank is cast. I would definitely choose the Eagle over it. The OEM 100mm is NOT as strong as the OEM 88mm. The OEM 88mm can definitely handle big numbers.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

Any larger crank is going to have increased harmonics. This is often overlooked and leads to issues. Cracks,bearing issues, bolts coming out.

An ATI or Fluidampr is a MUST for a larger then stock crank and is also beneficial anytime you change pistons/rods. The engine assembly must be balanced but thats a given for most engine builders.

ineedboostman

iTrader: (2)

Billet is the only way to go when it comes to 100mm. Magnus or Manley the others are time bombs

uvambo

iTrader: (8)

Go with the Eagle hands down. Ive had and have pushed mine for years 650lb/ft 800hp+. I cracked the stock one many years ago.
I chose Eagle over all others cause at the time the guys at English racing hadnt seen one broken crank from them, and had seen broken cranks from everybody else. They since seen one broken crank from Eagle and many more from every other manufacturer.

RightSaid fred

No, that's nothing more than an assumption.


Where's the proof?



I've spent time with an Eagle crank, the dimensions (size, taper, out of round) were all out of spec and it needed regrinding before use.
Then they need re nitriding again afterwards.
That's IF it was ever nitrided in the first place........they're too soft without having it done.



As far as stock cranks go, most of them are great, some have flaws in which show up , ending up broken even in stock situations.

2winscroll

That's BS a 4g64 crankshaft is forged and very strong. 1000hp has been done on a stock 4g64 crank. 7 bolts are extremely strong, but you can run tighter main clearances on an aftermarket billet crank because there is less flex.
Make sure you have the stock unit magnafluxed, shot peened.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

They are apparently forged. But they are not worth running for the small $ savings.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post3933138

2winscroll

[QUOTE=letsgetthisdone;11759972]They are apparently forged. But they are not worth running for the small $ savings.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-build-38.html

Like I said shot peened, magnafluxed and balanced, you should have no problems at 800hp. 1000hp is probably pushing it.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=2winscroll;11760039]$250ish for a "good" used crank, which then needs to be polished, balanced, mag'ed, and shot peened (per your rec), will likely get over $500. Or just buy an eagle and have it balanced for about the same price.

2winscroll

only time I would run one up really high (+800) would be if I had aluminum rods. Then I would still throw it in the garbage every 2~3 years.

2winscroll

[QUOTE=letsgetthisdone;11760042]Your still going to need to polish, balance, a aftermarket crank. The finish is horrible on most. To magnaflux and shot peen is only $100.

Oh yea did I mention they forged cranks

RightSaid fred

Cranks don't get shot peened.
That's for conrods.
For the sides.

2winscroll

All,
Read this it might help, but probably not. I've had several done.

https://books.google.com/books?id=Y2...page&q&f=false