LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

All of this wrong. The block doesn't need decked if the surface looks good.


Its a head gasket with 153k miles on, and he's making decent power. Failures do happen.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^I've had good luck using a razor blade too. Helps removing that carbon buildup. Just be careful when doing it as you dont want to gouge the surface. Keep the blade perpendicular to the work surface and always use a fresh blade. Takes me forever but worth the effort getting that nice and clean so it can seal without having to deck the block.

4b11slayer

Yea i got most of the deck pretty cleaned. Gotta hit it some more.

Also what torque should i do on the head studs.

And should i do a retorque after 500 miles?

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

What studs are you using? They will have specific torque specs associated to them and it also depends on it you use the supplied lube vs motor oil vs dry. I think most studs end up calling for around 95 ft/lbs but you get there in stages i.e 30 60 then 95 or something like that. The studs should come with very specific instructions.

4b11slayer

Yes i think i remember 95. Of course i will torque them in 3 stages with arp grease.

I have head studs i already had them. I installed 1x1 a few years back.

They are not arp. I forget what they are but they are silver studs with black nuts. I think they were tomei or cosworth. I forget.

4b11slayer

They actually might be map h11s lol. Idk. They are silver and the block end has a pointy tip

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what head stud you have. IIRC, standard ARP's are 85 or 90. L19's are 95, not sure about 625's, haven't used them yet.

4b11slayer

I have the MAP h11 studs.

I wonder if 8 should buy new ones. You think thats my issue? I read some stuff online about they lose torque but i think that was user error. Also map recommends a retorque after 100 miles.

RightSaid fred

Do you do your own machine work?
Worked in a machine shop?



Standard procedure for rebuilding any engine.....resurface the block.
You can't see any damage until it's been resurfaced.

4b11slayer

And who ever even said i melted a spark plug?

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^Yeah if you have the block out resurfacing it is the "proper" way but for a simple HG seems a lil overkill. Its not like an iron block is really going to warp like the head would. If there is pitting then sure but typically some elbow grease goes a long way to an acceptable seal.

As for the torque spec I have H11's myself and pretty sure the box is sitting in my garage. When I get home from work later I can snap a picture of the instructions and send it over to you.

4b11slayer

Ok so no question a out resurfacing the head? Do it forsure? Will it affect my tune? I.e be more knock prone?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I work very closely with my machine shop. Not every block I take them needs decked.



Absolutely need to resurface the head. You have an Evo 8, so just use an Evo 9 head gasket. The 9 gasket is .008" thicker compressed, and will more than cover you in whatever the machine shop removes from the head (they typically need .003-.005" taken off to get flat again).


Idk what those require for torque. If you're worried about them, the standard ARP's are cheap (a little over $100) and will provide more than enough clamping force.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Sean- are you saying the head will need resurfacing no matter what or are you just saying that chances are its warped and as such will need to be machined?

Also, does anyone heat these things up and flatten them back out or is that just way overkill? Seems like that would be a better way to go about doing it but logistically maybe not feasible.

RightSaid fred

It's not about having a warped surface, it's about having surface irregularities which prevent it from sealing.
You only get a perfect seal with a freshly machined block, a freshly machined head and a new gasket.
Studs don't even factor into it because they're not required.

You did.

Here.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...ark-plugs.html