Whats up peeps.
So the other day i did a wot 2-3-4th pull and blew up a heater core hose.
Last time i went to track my temp guage rised after the pull.
Went to track on the 19th and did 1 run and noticed temp guage was dropping when braking at the end of the trap. So im going to assume im leaking compression pressures into coolant system

The car is a 153k miles e85 fp red ss at 30 psi with only Head studs.

So my question is, Im going to do a head gasket job and valve seals.

Can i should i resurface Head Deck? If so how much can i do? And should i just use oem Head gasket?

 

You'll know after you pull it apart.


Maybe you just retorque the head?

That works if you do it before any major damage happens.
It depends on how many times you've cooked it.

 

I installed the head studs 1x1 method 2 years ago. Also did a retorque 5000 miles in.

 

Time to do another.

 

You're probably right (blown head gasket) but the two events you mention I don't consider conclusive. Test it or watch it a little more.

 

Did the same thing years ago, foot took the brunt of the hot water it sucked but have you taken a look at your coolant? or done a pressure test on your cooling system ? Would give you a idea before you pull the head. Good luck though

 

Not burning coolant. Just over heats after a hard run.
No leaks either

 

Check your thermostat. Some times they don't open all the way and can cause overheating. If you were pressurixing the cooling system with combustion, it would be overflowing coolant out of the overflow bottle.

 

I had similar issues to you so don't jump to a head gasket. Use this checklist to diagnose the issue:

1. Coolant pressure test and fix all leaks.
2. Inspect thermostat...replace if need be (DO NOT PUT IT IN BACKWARDS)
3. Check to see on evoscan if your temp is actually consistent with what the dash displays. You'd be
surprised as to how many guys have had their needle or a sensor fail.
4. Use a temperature gun and see if your radiator has the same temp. at the TOP AND THE BOTTOM

I went through all of that and found out that number 4 was my issue. My NEW CSF radiator was not letting coolant flow freely. I replaced the radiator after going through 1-3 and wallah! problem solved.

 

So saturday i start heearing a wiered noise. Turns out my crank pull lost 2 bolts and sheered off. So i ordered all new timing components. Water pump and head gasket. Along with valve seals.

I ripped off the head off sunday and in fact found dried caked coolant residue around combustion chambers. 2 and 3.

So im doing head gasket regardless.

Back to my question. Can i? Should i? Resurface head? I already ordered oem head gasket. So getting a "thicker" hg is not an option now.

Im gonna straight edge it. And if its good ima just use scoth brite pad to clean the decks.

Also im doing valve seals. Should i waste my money on valves and guides? Or dont fix it aint broke?

 

If my hazy memory is correct, Grandpa Evo had an engine swap due to a dropped valve. If that's true then that's the only occurrence I know of. As for guides, just notice how the valve fits after the valve spring and seal are off. Its pretty easy to tell. If you find any that are questionable get a machine shop opinion. My guess is you are going there anyway for some head planing.

 

Get the head resurfaced and do it right the first time. Make sure that the block is good too. The last thing you want is to put it all back together to find out you are having issues again due to warping. You do not need a "thicker" headgasket. OEM is the way to go! It is on stock block I am assuming? There is no point in going bigger on the valves...just get it resurfaced, mild port, new valve stem seals, valvetrain, cams and be done with the job once.

 

Take the head to a GOOD machine shop. Have them surface it and inspect it, replace seals. They can take measurements to see if valve to guide clearance is within spec. At 153k miles, a valve probably wouldn't hurt.


Inspect the deck of the block CLOSELY, especially where you found the coolant leak on the gasket. Look for pitting/melting/scarring, etc. If all is well, lightly polish the surface with mild scotch brite pads and WD40. Make sure the holes in the block for the heads are thoroughly cleaned out of any liquids before installing studs (use brake cleaner and compressed air). When the head is ready to go om, give the deck of the block one final wipe down with brake cleaner to make sure it's clean. And you'll be good to go.

 

Needs photos so we can see what melted plug electrodes do to a head.


If you want the job doing properly you'll also resurface the block but that means pulling it out.
It depends on how long it's been leaking and therefore how much it's rusted the surface of the block........assuming you've been topping it up with water.


Then you should be asking yourself why it happened.
That's easy...........you've already started lots of other posts.
It's self explanatory.
Everything breaks for a reason.

 

Thanks. Yea thats what i used to clean the deck. Wd40 and scotch pad. Works ok i guess.

Waiting on parts to send head out.