RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Be careful with using recorded knock as your benchmark of tuning timing with E85.

This happened to me with zero knock logged:

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

I'm not a tuner but I've picked up a few things over the years. I'm not pointing the finger at anyone, just trying to be helpful.

Less is more.

Less timing , more engine life.

Within reason, an engine needs a certain amount of timing to run but all too often people pack more into them and bad things happen.

Just because it took XX timing on the dyno or street runs once doesn't mean its always going to take it . Temperature, fuel, octane ,load it all comes into the play. Or running it up to the knock threshold and calling it good. Barreling down the road doing logs with a single knock sensor can only be so accurate. We are lucky to have such a strong engine because most don't tolerate what people do to them. The guys that tune a certain boxer engine leave them on the soft side so they live longer then 5000 miles above 400whp.

Typically you run a car on the dyno and look at the graph on low smoothing in all areas. Adjust timing and record the gains. Use the least amount of timing to make good power. Or even run it up and then take 2* out and then run it on the track. Knowing that you are 2 degrees soft . You can add 1-2 back in if you are trying to max it out.

AFR should also be looked at, run it on the richer side to cool the cylinder as long as its running clean. Again, a chassis dyno session is money well spent IMO.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Exactly, anybody tuning on E85 should read ALL they can about MBT engine tuning. This way you will not run too much or too little timing.

Too much exponentially creates more cylinder pressure and too little exponentially creates more temperature.

On E85 you can go beyond MBT without any registered knock.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

You will be in the timing sweet spot before MBT when you are looking at the data and playing it safe. E85 provides ALOT of safety and cooling compared to some fuels. We are all lucky to have it for 2-3 bucks a gallon.

Years ago people talked about these engines needing 19* out the top. Alot of people swung for the fences and it didn't go well.

4b11slayer

Good info. Thanks guys. Ill probably set up an appointment with baka@ 5150 after the 100 mile head stud retorque.

He has tuned a few of my buddies including my brothers stock block buschur 30r that made 467 on the mustang.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Right but first knowing MBT is most of the battle.

I've been tuning on E85 for almost ten years now, early times where dark days for a lot of people.

4b11slayer

What will it take for you to tune my car Razorlab?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

My personal Evo on a tow truck didn't scare you off?

4b11slayer

Lol naa. I know thats a common evo x issue.
I see it alot at hyundai also. And the 4b11 and hyundai motor is pretty much identical.

Are you actively tuning?

whtrice

iTrader: (6)

The Hyundai 4B11T is not the same as the Mitsubishi EVO X 4B11T. While the Hyundai 4B is similar in many ways, there are very few common parts. The block, head, pistons, rods, crank, etc. are all similar, but different. Different in that they are lower grade. Hyundai's rods are powder sintered whereas Mitsubishi's are forged. Mitsubishi's pistons are made by Mahle and have a oil reservoir underneath the dish like a Porsche turbo piston. Hyundai's cast piston is no different in strength compared to one of their passenger cars. Hyundai's 4B block has far less webbing (this is visible from the exterior). The differences go on and on. That doesn't mean the Hyundai parts suck. It's just that the Mitsubishi 4B11T is way better out of the box. While the parts are different, that doesn't mean that the Mitsubishi pistons, rods, and crank cannot fit into a Hyundai 4B.

Biggiesacks

sounds like a dope upgrade path for Hyundai

4b11slayer

I agree with the above. Its very similar. The materials are obviously cheaper.

I just said that hyundai 4b is notorious for eating spark plugs.

And i see it all too often on the evo x.

I wonder if a copper plug non iridium would be better.

The genesis coupe is limited to 350 torque before it gets block windows. The x is what 400?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Mine ate a plug (and motor) because it fuel starved.

4b11slayer

So got the car running. Did valve seals and resurface and did a diy port and polish.

Car feels responsive af.

I used a gates rpm belt. ( blue) im not sure if its kevlar.

I replaced all timing components with oem. Pulleys,tensioners. Etc. Gates water pump.

Im hearing a real faint ticking noise from the lower timing cover area. Also hear some tbelt noise. Ive read up on it and alot of people say the gates kevlar belts are noisey.

Any one ever experience wiered noises with this t belt?


Its louder when cold. Almost sounds like a little rattle. Doesnt sound concerning but since everythings new its kinda bugging me.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It only takes about 30 minutes to take the cover off and a have a look. Hard to diagnose a noise, blind, from the internet