Hello so I spun a rod bearing in my evo 8 around a month ago. After tearing the motor down my cylinder walls are in good shape. My plan was to do full forged bottom end but with my cylinder walls looking the way they do not sure i want to bore it when it is not nessecary at this time. My question becomes my goal for now is 5-600hp would stock pistons on forged crank and rods be okay at that power level. Also would it be worth doing wiseco standard pistons or just stock. Replacing everything oil related at the same time oil cooler, oil lines, oil filter housing, oil pump so on. Doing gsc s2 cams, springs retainers, injectors. Plan on ordering 99% of my parts from maperformance. Is there anything else I should do while im in there. Thanks in advance

 

Might as well do it right once.

Wiseco hd pistons and some wiseco i beams.

You can go h beam but i beam will give you way more wiggle room for when you wana go big power.

Get the block bored and honed. Likely 0.20 over. To avoid oil issues.

 

Is there a advantage going 0.20 over vs stock on the pistons?

 

Yes you start off with fresh cylinder walls.
You dont wana just throw a piston in there and call it good.

1 it will likely burn oil.
2 you dont know if the new piston is gonna slap or expand with heat in the used cylinder.

 

Alright I was going to just get a hone done and stock pistons but I'll continue my plan and just throw the maperformance stage 1 kit in there. Might end up leaving the head stock for now depends on what my budget will be. Anything else that should be done while it's apart? Trying to find a good machine shop atm

 

valve seals and resurface at the least on the head.
micropolish crank or replace if its gouged.

Just buy pistons rods and bearings.

Have a good machine shop measure proper piston to wall clearance and do a proper hone.

You should also align hone the crank caps

 

None of the 4g63's I've put together have needed an align hone on the mains, even with installing main studs. It is something to have the machine shop check, but it's never been an issue for me.

 

I'm doing a Manley forged crank. The maperformance stage 1 kit comes with crank, rods, pistons, bearings, arp main studs for $1650

 

My budget will be around 5k but I'm doing radiator all new oil lines, oil filter housing, water pump kit, oil pressure gauge, so on along with deciding to do cams and springs/retainers in my head will also need to be tuned and all machine work done. Assembling it myself

 

Manley forged cranks break. Go with an eagle, or find a good OEM crank if running stock stroke.

 

seen alot of manley crank horror stories

 

I can choose eagle crank with the stage 1 kit. What about Manley rods vs eagle rods.

 

I would go with Eagles.

 

Remember, there are always two sides to every story.

Nothing is going to live being rattled to death. Alot of people run these cars ragged and get upset when they finally break and want to point the finger. How many 35lb pump gas pulls can something take?

There are a number of well tuned cars running manley 94mm cranks and living. Everything has its purpose and limits.

 

ftfy