Good day has anyone ever reviewed or experience the use of a mazworx stage 3 short block?

The Mazworx Stage 3 4G63 is built with the following components:


- NEW OEM 4G63 Block

- NEW Manley 100mm Billet Crankshaft

- Custom CP 85.5mm Forged Pistons with Upgraded Wrist Pins

- Carrillo Pro-H Connecting Rods

-ACL Race Rod and Main Bearings

-ARP Main Studs

- Balance Shaft Delete

- Professional Assembly

 

I would stay away from a 100mm crank. They crack at the #4 rod journal.

Hit up English Racing for a 2.2SLR if you want a reliable stroker engine.

 

Why would they bore out a new block? If new block, I would keep the 85mm bore and build from there.

 

Can someone also explain the option they have where you can either purchase their blocks with either 100mm or 88mm stroke.

 

I don't know how you can miss it. There are 2 radial buttons on the website one for 100mm and one for 88mm. Why not just call them and speak to them to order over the phone?

 

OEM block is well machined for volume manufacturing of relatively affordable road vehicle, but they do not use torque plate and therefore the bores are a bit oval and tapered once head or simulating torque-plate are installed.

 

Ssshhh.... my crank might hear you

 

The OEM block can be honed for appropriate PTW of standard sized aftermarket pistons.

 

but the bores will not be round when you tq the head on...

 

I've literally done this, on a used engine too. Torque plate hone, aftermarket pistons listed as standard size, IIRC we got .0045" PTW. It runs great, no abnormal oil use or smoking.

 

I would be concerned with that enlarged PTW pocket if no torque plate is used. If we start getting leaky injectors, will fuel just pond on intake valves, then run down wall on intake side? Then as that fuel washes out oil and then burn, will that heat up that side of cylinder wall to stress the rings there over time?
By the way, the intake side of the cylinder wall is the half that sees pressure by rings during power stroke. The other 3 strokes will see pressure on exhaust half of cylinder.

 

Didn't you hear? Leaky injectors are totally in style!

On a serious note, If one does have a leaking injector, the fuel dilutes the oil and you will loose the oil film strength on the main and rod bearings eventually causing them to spin. That will happen before the rings go. Some people on here run without oil squirters at all.

 

how does it get in bearings? Mixed in oil as it gets pumped throughout system?

 

Where is that information from? They built these cars with a mix of a road vehicle / rally car and knew they were going to be run hard.
I've got a certain level of trust on the expensive machines the Japanese used on these engines vs some machine shops, an old machine needing service and measuring ability. A good machinist is getting harder and harder to find these days. The factory uses a piston run pretty tight and It goes the distance.

Few things worth noting and this is just my .02
It is always a good idea to hone up to a set of pistons to get a tight PTW clearance. Or if you had a slightly larger then stock set that would fit properly in new block that could work also. BUT most go with ARP main studs and will machine the block for them so at that point its safer to just go up to the next size piston if you doing that to a virgin block. The evo has a pretty stout girdle and it adds strength even with stock hardware. Some people have even run the stock main bolts to high levels.

To the OP, Mazworx does excellent machine work and has a great track record and history.

 

and that is fine, I am not saying that you did anything wrong. It is just that to have more round cylinders you need to bore them with TQ plate.. just honing.. .well, depends on how much material you take away.. I have seen differences in ovality, between tq head and open block, of up to 0.025 mm, which is about 1 thou. Question is if one considers it important enough to go for a block rebore with TQ plate or not..