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SOLVED: Evo 9 studdered then died, crank no start, starts cold
SOLVED: CRANK SENSOR
As if the title isnt confusing enough haha. Long backstory for those that can try to help
Mods :
- Injen intercooler piping
- Megan Racing exhaust manifold
- Small battery kit
- Downpipe to muffler multiple brands
Story :
- 3 years ago bought the car, 85k miles
- Problem free for 2.5 years
- About 6 months ago blew a head gasket 125k miles
- About 1 month ago replaced: Head Gasket, Timing belt, all timing components, water pump, thermostat, intake and exhaust gaskets, installed COP kit, and oil change. 126k miles
- Ever since rebuild, the car will not start when hot (after driving) and has a hard time starting cold (long crank)
- With these issues I changed fuel pump to Walbro 255 and swapped a set of OEM injectors. No help
- I swapped OEM coil packs back on and no help. COP coils seem to start it easier cold and also can very rarely start the engine after its hot
- Since i drive to work and park it all day, the no start when hot, hasnt been an issue so much. I drive abuout 90 miles a day to and from work
- As weather is getting hotter, it seems the car is unhappy. It will be running good and i go hit a red light and when i put the clutch in the car wants to die. I have to rev it to keep it alive.
- Many times now within a couple of weeks the car beat me to it and dies but i really quick put it in gear and bump start it before i make a complete stop and am stranded with a no hot start issue
- Leaving work 2 days ago, i was in heavy stop and go freeway traffic and everything was alright besides me needing to rev it quite often to keep it alive.
-Traffic got a break and i was cruising about 55mph for around 5 minutes.
- The car started to stumble and cough, in which i tried to rev it out a little thinking it was trying to die. It worked for about 30 seconds. (Been driving for a out 45 minutes at this point)
- As i hit another traffic patch and slow down, the car coughed a couple of times and died. I pulled off to the shoulder. During the vehicle dying, the RPM gauge started twitching and freaking out. (Only the RPM gauge, not the whole cluster like an alternator would do and the battery did NOT die)
- Pulled the spark plugs (they were about 1 year old) and they looks a little burnt (pic below)
- Swapped new spark plugs and no help
- Swapped OEM coil pack, no help
- Tested for spark, all cylinders all spark plug and coil combos, all getting spark.
- With the spark plugs pulled and cranking, i smelt fuel
- Had another Evo buddy come help me out and swapped parts/sensors : MAP, MAF, TPS, Cam sensors, and checked all vaccum lines and piping, pulled off lines to clear any vapor lock and gas cap
- As we kept testing and trying things the car eventually cooled down a bit and we put all of my parts back on like it was. The car started and sounded good for about 1 minute and then started to cough and kept trying to die if i did not rev it to stay alive.
- We learned that when it is colder it starts for about 1 minute until it gets a tad warmer
- We would let the car cool down, start it and drive it about 30 seconds down the frewway until it would die again. We were doing this about 5 times so we can eventually crawl our way into a parking lot or at least off of the freeway. (Been stranded for about 5 hours now haha)
- After finally getting onto a side street i towed the vehicle home.
- Now here asking for help. I suspect a bad crank sensor, engine coolant sensor and ECU
Sorry for a long post an may be forgetting something small, but just ask me if you have questions.
Last edited by BrandonIX; Jul 11, 2018 at 05:16 PM.
Reason: Solved
Hey there, sorry to hear about what you went through. As its tough to deal with this love/hate relationship we all have with our Evo's.
I see you stated the car ran good for 2.5 years prior to the head gaskets incident. Any chance you had it tuned within that period before the head gasket blew? I am no evo guru in any way, it just seems like something could be off in the ECU(as you expect).
Wish I could tell you i've been there and knew exactly what it was but I know more people with knowlegde beyond mine will chime in. Good luck in the time being, once again sorry this happened.
Hey there, sorry to hear about what you went through. As its tough to deal with this love/hate relationship we all have with our Evo's.
I see you stated the car ran good for 2.5 years prior to the head gaskets incident. Any chance you had it tuned within that period before the head gasket blew? I am no evo guru in any way, it just seems like something could be off in the ECU(as you expect).
Wish I could tell you i've been there and knew exactly what it was but I know more people with knowlegde beyond mine will chime in. Good luck in the time being, once again sorry this happened.
From when i bought the car to when the headgasket blew, it was tuned by english racing within the first month i owned it. I really hope i can figure it out being my only car and i work 45 miles away haha. Thanks though man. I think the ECU might have had an issue since it ran fine for almost an hour and then it died
Because the IAC valve controls your idle hot and cold. It's a known item to fail. It may or may not cause a code to set. You can try cleaning it out with carb cleaner. My guess is that it's your problem.
Because the IAC valve controls your idle hot and cold. It's a known item to fail. It may or may not cause a code to set. You can try cleaning it out with carb cleaner. My guess is that it's your problem.
The IAC moves in and out and ticks when turning the ignition on. Engine completeky cold
Yea try replacing the IAC... recently had a somewhat similar issue with my idle, and when I replaced the iac it was all good.. they are very expensive, so if you can find a used one on eBay or something that’s your best bet. It sounds crazy but a dodge stratus uses an identical part. A lot cheaper as well.
Yea try replacing the IAC... recently had a somewhat similar issue with my idle, and when I replaced the iac it was all good.. they are very expensive, so if you can find a used one on eBay or something that’s your best bet. It sounds crazy but a dodge stratus uses an identical part. A lot cheaper as well.
And did testing the IAC pass on your end? Also just started it completely cold and it runs idle fir about 5 minutes and i took it on a backroad behind my place. About 1 munite of driving (at this point it is at Operating Temp [OT]), and it started coughing and died on me and again a no hot start issue. It seems to idle just fine unti it acts up and dies
The IAC valve works off coolant temp. Coolant lines run in and out of it. It's also possible it could be a faulty crank or cam sensor. I seen them fail when hot and not set a code. I see you have a tubular header and no heat shield for the cam sensor.
The IAC valve works off coolant temp. Coolant lines run in and out of it. It's also possible it could be a faulty crank or cam sensor. I seen them fail when hot and not set a code. I see you have a tubular header and no heat shield for the cam sensor.
I never really do that many pulls and have an aftermarket hood with no shield and extra vents so heat leaves really quickly. I thought about a heat issue in the past but did 2 pulls and felt the cam sesnor and it was not very hot. Seeing as i can rev, idle, and start it until it gets up to running temp i am thinking the whole IAC assembly might be bad, but the little valve is working properly
May 27, 2018, 12:19 AM
