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Hey sorry for the late reply. So as far as the compression test, it is alright. Since i can not really get the engine up to running temp as the manual wants. But mid warm engine WOT all average 125-135, so pretty well.
For the issue ive been fighting, something in my head was telling me it was fuel related. In which it kind of is... See i was checking fuel pressure, injector pulses and actuation, fuel pump and different gas.
With WOT or keeping it alive with the trottle, makes it run worse and die easier. To me that means too much air per fuel mixture. So i got the Data logger and looked at every single sensor one by one. Even fricken fuel tank pressure. I actuated every solenoid, sensor and system the scanner was capable of. In which it was all 100% working and no faults.
At this point im getting irritated thinking it was impossible to ever get it running again haha. I opened up the o2 readings and just about sh*t myself. The front o2 wasnt reading anything. Until i blinked and it was reading. And then i sneeze and no more reading. I took focus here. It would have about 15 seconds of the normal changing (0.4-0.9v), and then about 15 seconds of (0.0v). And that is when it coughed and wanted to suicide.
The plug was all the way connected tight, no wires from the plug to the sensor, or plug to ECU were broken, loose or cut. Disconnecting the plug left it at (0.0v). Plugged in with key on but engine off and get interittent readings. I m going to change the front o2 tonight.
Hey sorry for the late reply. So as far as the compression test, it is alright. Since i can not really get the engine up to running temp as the manual wants. But mid warm engine WOT all average 125-135, so pretty well.
For the issue ive been fighting, something in my head was telling me it was fuel related. In which it kind of is... See i was checking fuel pressure, injector pulses and actuation, fuel pump and different gas.
With WOT or keeping it alive with the trottle, makes it run worse and die easier. To me that means too much air per fuel mixture. So i got the Data logger and looked at every single sensor one by one. Even fricken fuel tank pressure. I actuated every solenoid, sensor and system the scanner was capable of. In which it was all 100% working and no faults.
At this point im getting irritated thinking it was impossible to ever get it running again haha. I opened up the o2 readings and just about sh*t myself. The front o2 wasnt reading anything. Until i blinked and it was reading. And then i sneeze and no more reading. I took focus here. It would have about 15 seconds of the normal changing (0.4-0.9v), and then about 15 seconds of (0.0v). And that is when it coughed and wanted to suicide.
The plug was all the way connected tight, no wires from the plug to the sensor, or plug to ECU were broken, loose or cut. Disconnecting the plug left it at (0.0v). Plugged in with key on but engine off and get interittent readings. I m going to change the front o2 tonight.
I've been trying to track down a rough idle issue and stumbled upon this thread... In some of my readings in another thread, JohnBradley suggested unplugging the front O2 and seeing if the car runs any differently. Might be worth a try if you havent already replaced the O2 sensor.
I've been trying to track down a rough idle issue and stumbled upon this thread... In some of my readings in another thread, JohnBradley suggested unplugging the front O2 and seeing if the car runs any differently. Might be worth a try if you havent already replaced the O2 sensor.
If the car is still relatively cold and warming up before it acts up. And i unplug the front o2, the car starts trying to die and stay running at the same time and is the exact issue the car is having when it acts up. If you went out to your car and unplugged the front o2, it will start studdering and just die. Thats what mine is doing when its plugged in and even with the new o2 i put in yesterday.
I checked the harness down to as far as accessible and no broken wires and the plug is tight. I can not find tugging on a wire or messing with the plug to keep it running...
If all this started after the head gasket job, why not go back and look at what was done and how it might have been done wrong. 125, 135 are not high compression numbers. I'd recheck the timing. After that maybe try a leak down test.
If all this started after the head gasket job, why not go back and look at what was done and how it might have been done wrong. 125, 135 are not high compression numbers. I'd recheck the timing. After that maybe try a leak down test.
well all was well for iver a month. The latest part touched was a walbro 255 swapped with a new walbro 255. After that about a week later, i had issues. Working on swapping pumps back now
"6 months ago blew a head gasket 125k miles
- About 1 month ago replaced: Head Gasket, Timing belt, all timing components, water pump, thermostat, intake and exhaust gaskets, installed COP kit, and oil change. 126k miles
- Ever since rebuild, the car will not start when hot (after driving) and has a hard time starting cold (long crank)"
Did I misunderstand, "ever since rebuild" was when the problem started?
"6 months ago blew a head gasket 125k miles
- About 1 month ago replaced: Head Gasket, Timing belt, all timing components, water pump, thermostat, intake and exhaust gaskets, installed COP kit, and oil change. 126k miles
- Ever since rebuild, the car will not start when hot (after driving) and has a hard time starting cold (long crank)"
Did I misunderstand, "ever since rebuild" was when the problem started?
The problem i am talking about it a hard start when hot. I have a thread for that too. But the dying issue was a while after working on it.
Here is what i am thinking.
The hard start issue for some reason is gone. Cold and hot starts, it is fine. I have no idea with that.
With the engine dying i only have 1 more suggestion which is the crank sensor. When the car is warming up, rpms are good and it sounds pretty healthy. When i unplugged the crank sensor when it was running, it died imendiately with no hesitation. Which is good. When the car is hot and starts dying out, the rpms are freaking out and i can hold the throttle at a steady 1500rpm and the car doesnt like it at all. The rpm gauge is freaking out from 1k to 3k and what not. So since i have no codes and get readings from the crank sensor when its studdering i think it is fine at first. But the crank sensor senses rpm and if it isnt sure where the engine is, wouldnt it change spark and fuel According to rpm?
if it catches a couple seconds of correct rpms it is keeping the engine alive, but then the crank sensor reads incorrectly and makes a mixture that doesnt stay running at idle. Am i crazy or do i need to push the car on train tracks haha
Well i figured out the issue... i bought a new crank sensor to replace it just for research reasons since the rpm gauge reads random numbers when running. In about 1hour i got to the crank sensor and it was all human error i believe. The red wire was rubbing on the edge of the timing belt and it cut it pretty much in half leaving about 3 strands of wire holding it together. The black and blue wires were not damaged, just the red one. I reconnected the broken wire and rerouted it so it is far away from the timing belt and should not happen again.
I can finally sleep at night now and get this damn thing on the road. Well that is after i get new tabs since somebody literally STOLE MY TABS!!!!! I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING!! Picture attatched....
Thank you everyone for help and now we know for anyone else with a similar issue after a timing belt install.
Jun 8, 2018, 03:04 PM
