Forged pistons on stock rods...WHY? and what to do...?

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Nov 2, 2018 | 12:19 PM

#16

schmeevo

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From: Connecticut

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggiesacks

If your goals are sub 500whp I would leave the bottom end alone. That's assuming there aren't any issues with it.

Probably looking at around 440-450whp on a Mustang Dyno after cams. Everything seems to be fine down there (knock on wood).

Nov 8, 2018 | 04:16 PM

#17

Pal215

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From: San Diego, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by schmeevo

Probably looking at around 440-450whp on a Mustang Dyno after cams. Everything seems to be fine down there (knock on wood).

How far are you planning to rev it? ARP rod bolts might be a good safety net. Also, I don't know if those pistons are heavier or lighter than stock.

Nov 9, 2018 | 06:08 AM

#18

schmeevo

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From: Connecticut

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pal215

How far are you planning to rev it? ARP rod bolts might be a good safety net. Also, I don't know if those pistons are heavier or lighter than stock.

I revved to 8k on the first tune, but brought it down just a touch to 7800 now. I don't want to push those rod bolts. Previous owner replaced rod bearings, but not rod bolts about 5k miles ago.

Nov 12, 2018 | 09:36 AM

#19

barneyb

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From: Grand Island, NE

I'd say stay around 400 hp with these rods. Actually not a bad combination, long engine life, can run on native fuel.

Nov 16, 2018 | 05:02 AM

#20

WRC-LVR

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From: Marietta GA

I thought the factory rods on the EVo 8-9 4G63 were forged from the factory , just like the crank is?

Nov 16, 2018 | 02:47 PM

#21

kikiturbo

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From: Croatia

Quote:

Originally Posted by WRC-LVR

I thought the factory rods on the EVo 8-9 4G63 were forged from the factory , just like the crank is?

all rods are forged.. it is just that they are a bit thin...

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