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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 01:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
your 0.040" Over puts your piston diameter at 86mm. Mine is 0.020" Over so I'm at 85.5mm. My finald displacement is 2.159L. Just a tiny bit smaller displacement than yours.
No replacement for displacement...even if it is a fraction of a cc...haha

As long as it'll make 3/4 of your power, I'll be ecstatic.


Funny...when I pulled it apart it had stock pistons in it...albeit hadn't run in 4 years...and obviously never ran with this combo because the pistons were flopping around in the cylinders, but...yeah. Could make a box of chocolates joke here...it was enough that my machinist was like WTF?!? Oddly enough, it cleaned up with a light hone...he even said the block was freshly decked and checked out perfect. Its like someone gave up half way through.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 06:45 AM
  #17  
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Good choice bud!
did you get the stroker turbo tuff Manley rods?
they’re a straight bean design to allow block clearance for the 2.3L application, and they’re a touch lighter than the normal 150mm TT rods.
Manley part# 14400-4

also, please take the Eagle crank to an excellent machine shop and have the machinist inspect it thoroughly!
And have them balance your rotating assembly to a gnat’s azz too!

Last edited by Strm Trpr; Sep 28, 2018 at 06:57 AM.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 08:59 AM
  #18  
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Nice. If I change out my rotating assembly again this year I'll be doing the 94/150 route as well. Wanted to do an uber long rod build but no one sells OTS 159mm rods :shakesfist:
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #19  
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Just make sure you treat each engine part as an individual. Measure each piece and each bore to verify each tolerace separately.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 09:47 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Strm Trpr
Good choice bud!
did you get the stroker turbo tuff Manley rods?
they’re a straight bean design to allow block clearance for the 2.3L application, and they’re a touch lighter than the normal 150mm TT rods.
Manley part# 14400-4

also, please take the Eagle crank to an excellent machine shop and have the machinist inspect it thoroughly!
And have them balance your rotating assembly to a gnat’s azz too!
Thabks! Hopefully it turns out to be. I actually did not order the I beams though...I did the Manley H-Tuff H beams. The machinist is aware there will be clearancing needed...I do plan to have it balanced though.



Originally Posted by ayoustin
Nice. If I change out my rotating assembly again this year I'll be doing the 94/150 route as well. Wanted to do an uber long rod build but no one sells OTS 159mm rods :shakesfist:
I'm interested to see how it is...I have never driven a stock Evo so this will be an interesting first impression. Haha

Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
Just make sure you treat each engine part as an individual. Measure each piece and each bore to verify each tolerace separately.
I am actually planning on having the machinist assemble the bottom end and head for that very reason.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 10:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ayoustin
Nice. If I change out my rotating assembly again this year I'll be doing the 94/150 route as well. Wanted to do an uber long rod build but no one sells OTS 159mm rods :shakesfist:

You dont want that on a 2.0 block anyways. That pushes the wrist pin up into the oil scraper ring. Even 6mm higherer starts to get into that ring. 3mm keeps clear.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 11:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
You dont want that on a 2.0 block anyways. That pushes the wrist pin up into the oil scraper ring. Even 6mm higherer starts to get into that ring. 3mm keeps clear.
I doubt he was gonna build a 4G63 with a 94mm stroke crankshaft and 159mm rods.
4G63 deck height is 229mm
1/2 of 94mm stroke is 47mm
rods 159mm
229-159-47=23
Pistons with a comp height of 23mm <<— no bueno.

throw that into a 4G64 and the comp height can move up 6mm to 29mm which is what is ran in a 2.3L stroker in a 4G63.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 11:46 AM
  #23  
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If doing a 4g64, it's easier to just use a shelf rod that is 156mm in length, and one of the (what seems like many now) pistons with the appropriate pin height. I recall ~2yrs ago no one made that pin height. Very cool there are shelf offerings for it now. Its the same pin height for 150/94 4g63 and 156/94 4g64. I built a 156/94 4g64 (I did use ER custom Wiseco pistons though), and IIRC Dallas did as well but with a shelf Manley piston.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 01:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
If doing a 4g64, it's easier to just use a shelf rod that is 156mm in length, and one of the (what seems like many now) pistons with the appropriate pin height. I recall ~2yrs ago no one made that pin height. Very cool there are shelf offerings for it now. Its the same pin height for 150/94 4g63 and 156/94 4g64. I built a 156/94 4g64 (I did use ER custom Wiseco pistons though), and IIRC Dallas did as well but with a shelf Manley piston.
NICE!!
How did you like the 156/94 4G64 combo?
I’m torn between the 2.2L 156/94 4G64 or the LR2.4L 156/100.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
If doing a 4g64, it's easier to just use a shelf rod that is 156mm in length, and one of the (what seems like many now) pistons with the appropriate pin height. I recall ~2yrs ago no one made that pin height. Very cool there are shelf offerings for it now. Its the same pin height for 150/94 4g63 and 156/94 4g64. I built a 156/94 4g64 (I did use ER custom Wiseco pistons though), and IIRC Dallas did as well but with a shelf Manley piston.
Yep, thats exactly what I did. Manley was the only OTS piston with the right pin height.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 02:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Strm Trpr

NICE!!
How did you like the 156/94 4G64 combo?
I’m torn between the 2.2L 156/94 4G64 or the LR2.4L 156/100.
I like it a lot. Still breaking in the fresh drivetrain, but it has very good off boost torque. I'm not a fan of the 100mm crank simply for reliability concerns.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 02:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I like it a lot. Still breaking in the fresh drivetrain, but it has very good off boost torque. I'm not a fan of the 100mm crank simply for reliability concerns.
Yeah, the 100mm Manley forged and billet cranks crack.
I also know of a few 6-bolt 100mm cranks that cracked buy they were high power dsm 6-bolt dsms.

I have a 4G69 crank that I may build, but I’m going to have it fully inspected and hardness tested before I commit to my build.

MAP’s 1000+ whp drag RX-7 runs an oem 100mm stroke crank 6-bolt crank and I’ve never heard of any reliability issues, but then again I haven’t heard anything about it in a very long time.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 04:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Strm Trpr

Yeah, the 100mm Manley forged and billet cranks crack.
I also know of a few 6-bolt 100mm cranks that cracked buy they were high power dsm 6-bolt dsms.

I have a 4G69 crank that I may build, but I’m going to have it fully inspected and hardness tested before I commit to my build.

MAP’s 1000+ whp drag RX-7 runs an oem 100mm stroke crank 6-bolt crank and I’ve never heard of any reliability issues, but then again I haven’t heard anything about it in a very long time.
Things last a lot longer when their life is lived literally a 1/4 mile at a time.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 09:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
You dont want that on a 2.0 block anyways. That pushes the wrist pin up into the oil scraper ring. Even 6mm higherer starts to get into that ring. 3mm keeps clear.
At the rate I've been going it'd only last a year anyway so **** it lol


Originally Posted by Strm Trpr
I doubt he was gonna build a 4G63 with a 94mm stroke crankshaft and 159mm rods.
4G63 deck height is 229mm
1/2 of 94mm stroke is 47mm
rods 159mm
229-159-47=23
Pistons with a comp height of 23mm <<— no bueno.

throw that into a 4G64 and the comp height can move up 6mm to 29mm which is what is ran in a 2.3L stroker in a 4G63.
I never said I'd run a 94mm crank with a 159mm rod. It'd be a stock 88mm stroke crank for that setup. Manley offers the correct pin height for the pistons but no one offers OTS 159mm rods.
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 04:00 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer
Oil port in #4 rod journal cracks. Not sure if that happens on oem crank though. I've only seen it happen on Manley billet cranks.
I recently purchased a 100mm billet manley crank and fyi they changed the #4 oiling port it is no longer angled I feel pretty good about it.
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