I'm rebuilding the 4g63 in my Evo...long story, but everything but the block and head were junk .

The block is .040 over

Being my plans for the car are Street/AutoX/and eventually road course (not going to drag)...I've settled on doing a 2.3l...also not shooting for much more than 400/450hp to keep it usable.

Now I know I'm going to get 500 opinions, but looking for any advice I can get.

I have a 50k mile 2.4 4g64 that I can pull the crank from (it's a wideblock that I bought to swap my Starion that never happened. Lol) ...so...my options are to use that stock 4g64 100mm crank, and at that point I believe Manley 150mm H beam rods and Wiseco standard 9.0:1 or 9.5:1 pistons should be fine? These are recommended from a local with a drag DSM for my power level.

or...is it worth it to spend the extra $1k for an eagle forged crank, Manley turbo tuff's, and Wiseco HDs?

I'm pretty firm on my power goal...not looking for much more than that...just looking for something that can reliably take a beating...I always like to overbuild for that reason, but $1k is $1k...just don't want to pointlessly spend money but i will spend it if it's necessary.

Also, for the top end...kiggly beehives, Ferrera competition plus stock size valves, Ferrera guides, seals, and locks, etc.

​​​​I am open to any suggestions and thoughts.

 

TT Ibeams if you plan in beating on engine.

 

I run 150mm "economy" Manley H beams, std 9:1 Manley pistons on a stock crank making 400/400, it's a road course car. Haven't had any issues the past year I've been running this setup.

The two things I'd recommend are don't waste all that money in the head, you don't that much for your power goals. Some good springs and cams are all you'll need. Cam gears if you want to try and dial them in too. Also I'd avoid the 100mm crank, lotta guys seem to crack them on track cars.

 

I second avoiding the 100mm crank. Go with a 94mm. You can see your 100mm crank for $250-$300, and get an eagle 94mm for ~$650.

You will still be able to use 150mm rods, Manley or Eagle "economy" Hbeams will be fine to 550wtq or so. CP makes shelf pistons for the 150/94 combo in the 4g63 block, I would keep compression at 9:1. I would also go with upgraded thick wall wrist pins.

For your power goals, I wouldn't go any bigger than a GSC S2 or Kelford 272 camshaft.

Head porting isn't required for the power level. But if you want to run pump gas, pocket port from HeadGames wouldn't hurt.

 

Thanks for the replies. It's good to know the H-beams can take some power, but, what is it with the crank that fails? They can take 800hp but fail at sustained high rpms at a lower level?

The GSC 2 274s were the cams I planned on going with.

As for the CP pistons using 150mm rods...I didn't realize that combo was possible. I read the 153mm are ideal, but I can't find the 153mms anywhere...and apparently 156mm moves the pin too high on the Piston...from what I have gathered anyway.

I know Buschur recommends the 2.3 for AutoX and track for the torque and quick spool...hmm.

 

Oil port in #4 rod journal cracks. Not sure if that happens on oem crank though. I've only seen it happen on Manley billet cranks.

 

I will 3rd or 4th not using an OEM 100mm if you plan on pushing more than 400hp/tq. It was quite spendy to replace all the things that broke along with the crank in my old 2.3. Now have a billet 94mm crank in the 2.2l.

 

The 100mm crank fails at the #4 rod journal. They all eventually fail. Buschur did a lot of great things for this community, but his recommendation of the 100mm crnak is outdated in my opinion. Having driven both 100mm and 94mm motors, there isn't much different. Maybe 100-200rpm difference for boost threshold, and the 100mm offers slightly more off boost torque. Nothing you're really going miss. Especially since you'll get an engine that is far less likely to fail the crank.

The 153mm rods are custom, English Racing can get them. But they're made by Carillo and are touch over $1100 for a set IIRC. The 153 is ideal in a 4g63, but the 150 still works great. I built one last year that made 700whp with an FP Zero, revved to 9k. It now has an ETS twin scroll turbo kit with a 6466, going on the dyno in 10 days.

 

If you do a 94mm crank, 150mm rod, you can get an OTS piston from manley which is what I run. Some people seem to have issue running the manley stuff but ER didnt seem to have any issue with me going this route since I didnt want to wait for a custom 159mm rod (in my case using a 2.4l block so its 6mm longer)

The manley piston moves the wrist pin up 3mm which is an odd number where most are OEM or +6mm.

 

 

The deed is done. Just ordered an Eagle 94mm Crank, Manley H-Tuff 150mm Rods, and JE 86mm 9.0:1 pistons meant for use with this combo. Seems the DSM guys have had good luck with them...they were also lighter than all of the others...I'm aware its negligible, especially at the low power level I'm shooting for (JE = 299g vs Manley = 327g). But I'm sure it will be fine. Everything I've read says that with the 150mm rods its a 2.1L?

Ordered all my top end bits as well...ouch that hurt...lol

Thank you everyone for your incite and pushing me away from the 100mm! I did do some research on them cracking and did find a quite few people mention the stock 4g64 crank's limit is at about 450hp and I'd rather not be that close.

I'll leave that 4g64 in the corner for my Starion whenever I get to that.

 

Are you sure about Manley = 527g? Did you mean 327g (w/o wrist pin and locks)?

 

It's the piston radius and crankshaft stroke that creates the displacement. Rods don't affect the calculation.

And in your case:
3.141592 × (8.6cm/2)^2 × 9.4cm × 4 cylinders = 2,184mL or 2.184L

cm^3 = mL

 

Sorry...I meant 327g...typo...lol* So Manley 327g vs the JE 299g.

But okay...I was a bit confused by that myself but I suppose people just round differently. Haha.

Thank you for the arithmetic though!

 

your 0.040" Over puts your piston diameter at 86mm. Mine is 0.020" Over so I'm at 85.5mm. My finald displacement is 2.159L. Just a tiny bit smaller displacement than yours.